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That's funny, but splitting the triple bonds would be equivalent to 1kg of TNT, that might damage the surrounding cars.
Tyres aren't sprung weight...
I love when people say you should only use nitrogen for a shock bladder. Realize that 90% of the air in a shock bladder is atmospheric air unless you are collapsing the bladder or moving the piston all the way down prior to charging. All the nitrogen is doing is compressing the air in the shock. Gases compress. Liquids cannot be compressed. Is it a better idea to use nitrogen? Maybe. But unless you are filling the bladder or tire from fully deflated and flat it’s not 100% nitrogen in there.
As I posted above, that is not exactly true. It is possible to flush the bladder with nitrogen first and then close a valve and pressurize it while the flush is ongoing. Kinda like how it is possible to completely bleed air from your brakes without having to vacuum the system first. The nitrogen displaces the ambient air just as brake fluid does.
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Going to mount a bladder kit in my ktm this weekend and im going to be use air inside the bladder. hopefully i will survive😃
Completely agree. I would also go as far to say that if you have a dryer on your compressor line and your shock has a rubber bladder, you also wont notice any difference.
One other thing to think about, When people close up their shock, are people purging the air out or just adding nitrogen. Cause unless you are purging or pulling complete vacuum, there is still air and thus humidity inside that shock with 98% pure N2.
I also would like to add the same disclaimer that this isn't aimed at you for the same reason you gave me.
This subject is right along the lines of running premium gasoline in your 1992 Toyota corolla thinking it gives you better gas mileage and power... Definitely the same people "believing the hype" lol.
"The nitrogen displaces the ambient air just as brake fluid does."
No it doesn't, nitrogen mixes with the air, you do realize "air" is 78% nitrogen.
If the bladder is full of air and you pressurized it to 150psi with 90% nitrogen, the percentage of nitrogen in the bladder will change from 78% to 89.2%, because you have added nitrogen to the air. The bladder still contains 10.8% oxygen, carbon dioxide, water, and other gases.
Throughout this whole thread there’s a lot of basic principles that have been overlooked or ignored.
It shows the level of scientifically illiteracy.
I'm sticking with air, I can't feel any difference, and haven't seen any corrosion on the inside of the reservoir's end cap.
Go back and pay attention to the word flush. Yes, if you don’t take measures to remove the ambient air first the nitrogen will simply mix in. But if you flush it sufficiently first it will remove the ambient air more and more until there’s essentially none left, raising the nitrogen percentage above your calculation.
How do you "flush" the air?
tl;dr
Moisture in the air can cause it to expand more, it's about partial pressures. This is in addition to corrosion issues.
High pressure oxygen and oil can ignite, causing all sorts of issues. It's speculated that air can too. So if your bladder or piston leaks you can have ignition, could be especially problematic during a service. I don't know of this ever happening, with air it's mostly speculative, but IMO not worth the risk.
I built a charging setup that has a release valve. I let the nitrogen flow from the bottle through the charging setup and bladder to flush or purge the ambient air out the valve. Then I close the valve mid-flow and set the final pressure. Not a perfect vacuum, but it’s certainly getting the majority of the ambient air out.
What grade nitrogen are you using?
Pit Row
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