Loosening the tie downs over night

Gravel wrote:

How does an air fork work? Or why does changing the oil level affect how the fork feels?

Village Idiot wrote:

And if you've got a minute, would you mind showing me where the springs are in the AER forks? I can't seem to find them but...

And if you've got a minute, would you mind showing me where the springs are in the AER forks? I can't seem to find them but I know they're there because it still bounces back.

TIA 👍

Gravel wrote:

The aer springs are all around you, the fork pump just spins the air into little coils and stacks them into the fork. The more little...

The aer springs are all around you, the fork pump just spins the air into little coils and stacks them into the fork. The more little coils you put in, the stiffer the fork gets!

OwenJakes wrote:

Okay so this might be too much but…Technically any tying down of the bike that doesn’t incorporate the straps being parallel and in-line with the forks...

Okay so this might be too much but…

Technically any tying down of the bike that doesn’t incorporate the straps being parallel and in-line with the forks will put pressure on seals and bushings. It’s just 2 tubes and if you don’t compress them totally parallel-perpendicular, you have lateral forces. 

the best way to do this would be to levitate your bike😂

davis224 wrote:

Unless you're hooking the straps to the forks under your bottom clamps, there shouldn't be any lateral pressure on fork internals.

OwenJakes wrote:

Do you want a free body diagram lol? What I said is correct. 

OwenJakes wrote:

Do you want a free body diagram lol? What I said is correct. 

davis224 wrote:

Is this with or without a wheel chock? Without, the bottom of the tire should be the fulcrum shouldn't it? If the wheel was locked in...

Is this with or without a wheel chock? Without, the bottom of the tire should be the fulcrum shouldn't it? If the wheel was locked in place then yea, it would be trying to bow the fork between the bottom clamp and the axle.

OwenJakes wrote:

Every bike would be pulled against something. The inner tube would be a pivot at the axle. That’s why I’m saying no matter what you’re gonna have...

Every bike would be pulled against something. 

The inner tube would be a pivot at the axle. That’s why I’m saying no matter what you’re gonna have forces on the bushings and seals. Next time you pull your forks apart check on the tubes and you’ll see some increased wear areas on the tubes from transport. For me it’s super obvious because I have a trailer with exact, repeatable mounting protocol and a fork support that I’ve used since day one. 

The best way to do this is for your straps to be perfectly in line with the forks but it only minimizes this effect. My favorite way to strap a bike is caddycorner in a pickup truck because the bike locks down snug with minimal force if you use a wider hook placement. I’ve thought way too much about this I’m sorry. 

28hall wrote:

I think your strapping them down too far creating excess pressure if your getting leaks.  Have the straps closer to a 45 degree angle from the...

I think your strapping them down too far creating excess pressure if your getting leaks.  Have the straps closer to a 45 degree angle from the bike and you don't need much tension at all or like others suggested turn buckles on the foot pegs works well too.

sh274s wrote:

The fork does not increase in pressure as it's compressed. It moves oil from one side of the shim stack to the other.

davis224 wrote:

Is this with or without a wheel chock? Without, the bottom of the tire should be the fulcrum shouldn't it? If the wheel was locked in...

Is this with or without a wheel chock? Without, the bottom of the tire should be the fulcrum shouldn't it? If the wheel was locked in place then yea, it would be trying to bow the fork between the bottom clamp and the axle.

OwenJakes wrote:

Every bike would be pulled against something. The inner tube would be a pivot at the axle. That’s why I’m saying no matter what you’re gonna have...

Every bike would be pulled against something. 

The inner tube would be a pivot at the axle. That’s why I’m saying no matter what you’re gonna have forces on the bushings and seals. Next time you pull your forks apart check on the tubes and you’ll see some increased wear areas on the tubes from transport. For me it’s super obvious because I have a trailer with exact, repeatable mounting protocol and a fork support that I’ve used since day one. 

The best way to do this is for your straps to be perfectly in line with the forks but it only minimizes this effect. My favorite way to strap a bike is caddycorner in a pickup truck because the bike locks down snug with minimal force if you use a wider hook placement. I’ve thought way too much about this I’m sorry. 

davis224 wrote:

Ah, when you said lateral I was thinking side to side, but I guess there would be force pushing the front wheel back towards the motor...

Ah, when you said lateral I was thinking side to side, but I guess there would be force pushing the front wheel back towards the motor which would put some force on the seals and bushings.

sh274s wrote:

The fork does not increase in pressure as it's compressed. It moves oil from one side of the shim stack to the other.