Posts
13
Joined
10/31/2025
Location
Iluka, WA
AU
Is the new KYB stuff really that good that the racetech goldvalves would be a step in the wrong direction? I have a yz450f 2023 model and changed the leaf spring midvalve to the older style spring by installing krooztune midvalves. As for shimming ive kept it close to stock but it feels horrid. Not knowing what I'm doing I figured id buy some goldvalves as I ran these on a yz450 I had in 2019 and it was good I liked how it felt.
I asked a suspension guy here if he sells them and he was so disgusted that I asked and went on to tell me that its such old tech. What's the deal is it really that bad?
Race Tech is good stuff. In my experience the gold valves and RT shim suggestions are more plush than others, but use higher oil volume for bottoming resistance.
There is more than one way to skin the cat, other strategies work well too. Likewise, the stock Yamaha suspension is usually really good.
Why did you change the mid valve? What feeling are you trying to change?
I agree with 3strokemx, RT Gold Valves can be quite good and can certainly improve on KYB OEM valving. My 2024 Beta 450RX forks and shock were very unbalanced and the forks felt super harsh to me (stiff on top and soft on bottom). I installed gold valves for my skill and weight, which was a massive improvement. So much of it depends on the rider skill, weight, and track conditions...can the OEM valving be very good for certain riders and conditions, absolutely. But proper valving, gold valves or not, will make a big difference in my experience. I just revalved my 2024 KX450 forks myself by going significantly stiffer by adding 2 face shims, swapping out the .10 shims for .15 shims, and adding a cross-over shim (compression base valve), and it completely transformed that bike for the better. I did not do anything with mid-valve or rebound, as I wanted to do one thing at at time. Anyways, I don't think gold valves are "old technology" that is somehow obsolete...they can be made to work excellent and it's all in getting the valving correct for you. I agree that the RT stuff is usually much more compliant and soft in the first 2-3" of the stroke and relies on beefier valving in the mid-range and more oil for bottoming resistance (RT almost always recommends a rate or two softer fork spring rates than anyone else, FWIW).
I’ve heard both sides. I’ve been to suspension shops and they have a bucket full of gold valves, They claim a good shop with just shim changes are better then a diy guy with gold valves, But that gold valves will be better then oem.
The stock forks are just harsh on chop. As soon as the front wheel smacks the ground it hurts my hands. I want the initial hit to be soft then ramp up damping to hard. Not even sure if that possible. I don't mind my fork bottoming out every now and then it's quite a nice feeling having that knock come through when you land into breaking bumps down a landing of a jump or something.
I figured the float style Midvalve would give me that initial plush feeling but the shims I put in now seem too stiff my fork doesn't even bottom out. The float is set to 0.1mm. it's so difficult to accurately measuring float anyways I might have it wrong but it's plus minus in that range. I'm also confused as to what I'm feeling. It's all a mind game.
I figured because I have no idea what I'm doing I'll use gold valves because they have good reference shim stacks that actually work. But I'm having doubts because of what people are saying about them.
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Without pointing fingers or debating the pros and cons, if you plan to tackle the job yourself, let me point out one thing. Your 2023 YZ450 has the exact same forks as your 2019 YZ450...
"I ran these on a yz450 I had in 2019 and it was good I liked how it felt."
If it was me I'd start by backing out the clickers for compression. KYB has a big range, the clickers make noticeable changes.
Something else to consider is fork height and sag. This changes the weight bias. If the rear is too low your weight is too far back and the forks would deflect more than absorb. Less sag or forks higher in the clamps would shift the weight bias forward. You might also notice it's harder to corner if the weight bias is too far rearward.
Your complaint could be addressed as easy as adding a bleed shim or a bleed hole in the piston.
I ride hard enduro...not mx, anyways I ditched the leaf design on my yz 300x and used the Lanier mid taps with their enduro stack, which is the float design....very happy with it.
As far as Race Tech, I have used their valves many, many times through the years, imho they are good quality components with good designs.
Great for diy, but mostly for learning how to and how valving functions.
Back in the day RT supplied a chart so you could shim stiffer or softer based on the chart grid, now you have to call them for tuning assistance.
Almost every RT set up I have experienced was valved on the stiff side, suspension can only be as good as the tune!
Anyone could purchase the most expensive suspension available on the market and end up with an absolute unrideable set up....if the tune isn't at least....in the ball park.
If you go with RT and you have any concerns you can call RT tech service with your complaint and they will send you a revised valve shim stack arrangement to address it.
I have used a few companies all ranged from good to ok, one that I have used for the past few bikes, their design concept and function is fantastic....imho
"Take a hard look at Suspension 101"
They use a spring loaded mid valve with a stack that allows more high speed blow off and greater sensitivity. Also, the base valve has a high and low speed adjustment, it's similar to a cone valve design but instead of a cone they use a shim stack that also has a preload adjuster.
I've got 2 bikes setup with their kits and the forks are just awesome.
I see you said you do hard enduro. You ever race the TKO?
I'd check your basics more often ... alignment, torque specs, clean seals, wipers, legs, bleed the fork. Cannot emphasize enough!
Also, how many hours on your oil?
I've noticed a huge drop-off in WP closed cartridge performance with oil change intervals beyond 50h. I always blamed the forks ... what an idiot!
No, I'm in Hawaii and at 65 no way I'd survive it.
Before making a decision consider this.
If you're not experienced at tuning and you go with a diy kit, expect to be in and out of the fork a lot.
It's rare that you nail a tune on your first try, even top shops can be considerably off on a tune.
Diy is a great way to learn if you're willing to put in the time, but if you're looking to get it nailed quickly then it's better to work with a local tuner that is willing to make future adjustments....until you're happy.
I liked GV for woods. I ran 1-2 spring rates higher with lighter valving and a 2 stage comp stack.
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