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Joined
9/21/2023
Location
Streator, IL, USA
Edited Date/Time
9/21/2023 5:01pm
So Im wondering how bad and what can happen as I over tightened a few spokes to achieve a true spinning wheel. Between 55 and 65 in lbs on about 8 spokes the rest are at 44 in lbs. I’m afraid to mess with it any more as I simply did the 1,2,3 time around tightening method just to make sure all was tight then I was out of round after that and ended up just over tightened the ones that would pull it straight. I’m not looking to replace the spokes
You may want to check your owners manual, Yamaha specs 20ish in/lbs on their spokes, not sure on other brands. Over tightening spokes takes the stretch out of them and causes them to break.
The rims a warp 9 elite on a Ktm websites says 44lbs
Perhaps you mean 44 inch-pounds? An aluminum spoke nipple will completely deform before it reaches 44 ft. lbs.
Whoops yes that’s correct in lbs I’m sorry I corrected the post now
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Wouldn't that strip the spoke nipples?
I build all my wheels to 50 inch... I don't think 60 would be that big of a deal. If you're that worried, back them off and true it up again.
Not a big deal but no rim is perfectly true after one ride. Perfection just doesn’t exist so I wouldn’t go crazy tight for that sake.
Dirt and moisture can skew spoke torque wrench values fyi.
So do you ride muddy tracks and pressure wash yer bike?
Just throwing out things to consider
Ur gunna die
A drop of oil in each nipple every couple of washes will help keep the torque values relatively viable, but the tone method is the best overall I think.
Once all of your spokes are the proper torque, if you need to tighten a few spokes on one side of the rim, you need to loosen the spokes next to them that pull from the other side of the rim first. That way you can move that part of the rim in one direction without increasing overall spoke tension. Said another way: For every spoke that is tightened, another spoke has to be loosened the same amount.
@dirt_trix177 did you ever run into any issues with your wheel? I just laced up a wheel with some fresh spokes and ran into pretty much the same scenario you described above.
The nipple will break eventually. Ended up on the wrong side of the tone method once, found out when the nipple broke in half lol
Tone Method for a quick “spot check”.
You shouldn’t need to overtighten any. To get it straight, loosen off the opposing spokes.
Note: I’ve seen hubs crack in strange ways- I recall this was blamed on overtightened spokes.
@Thisusernameisavailable I guess I wouldn’t say I’m over tightening any spokes. What I did is I laced up the wheel, torqued the spokes to 44 inch pounds, and then tightened a few spokes to make the wheel true. I’ll start over though and see try the method you suggested.
I know you're looking for a solution but without seeing the wheel I would say put the torque wrench down, learn how to true the right way i.e. only mess with the spokes you need to or take it to a professional. Fun fact, a wheel with perfect tension won't be true and a true wheel won't have perfect tension. If you don't build wheels you don't need a spoke torque wrench. FYI spoke torque depends on the spoke diameter and pitch and they aren't all the same despite what many might say. Get it wrong and end up like Grant Langston back in the day. Better to be too tight than too loose. Good luck.
I’d ride it for a couple hours to seat everything and check again. The spokes will seat and lose tension.
I use a small hammer and punch to gently seat the spoke heads and nipples, it helps with holding tension on new wheels. Gently…
If you didn’t clean and lubricate the spokes and nipples during assembly the torque values will be all over the place anyway. Tone is the way for normal people.
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