So my RM-Z450 clutch lever hits my finger in just a way that it is destroying my skin. The lever is a bit too far away from the bars. When I adjust it in, the engine disengagement is not complete when it's pulled.
So, being the brainiac I am I try to heat it up and bend it in a bit and break the lever. The tusk backup I have fits so poorly that I would not be comfortable riding with it. It also is such a different shape it is now too close! So I'm too far extreme in both directions. I've never experienced this on any bike before so I have no clue how to massage this kind of thing. Any suggestions? I am keen to buy a complete Yamaha clutch perch from a 2 stroke and run that. I assume this stuff is universal but we'll see..
An adjustable clutch lever is probably the solution but I'm not familiar with just a lever. With the tusk ones, the lever does not fit into the perch the way it should so I have a bad taste in my mouth. I'm not exactly wanting to buy a set when I don't need it either.
Sorry for the novel.
If you want to try bending a lever yourself, here’s a little trick to get just the right amount of heat- you need an oxy welding setup.
Put the lever in a vice, blacken the lever with an acetylene flame, so the lever is covered in soot. Then turn the oxy on until you have an average welding flame, use it to burn the soot off.
The lever is now just the right temp for bending and will not break- bend away, but don’t take too long.
If you don’t get the shape right first go, repeat the process.
You could try a after market short lever, might be closer.
Check the position of the clutch cam arm...
The angle between the clutch cable and arm should be 90 degrees half way between the clutch being fully engaged and fully released.
If it's not, the lever pull will be longer.
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I can recommend the ARC perch i Have - it is the most expensive one on the market but since the kever itself is made from a space material it doesn't brake your f8ngers and arms. I have a rm250 and had the same issue, finger knuckles were bloody after 10 mins
I used a little propane flame and probably went too far. Honestly a stock lever bent back 10 degrees would be just fine but now I have to spend money no matter what so I wanna just get whats best. I’m such a caveman if I get another stocker I’ll break it😂😂
What if you just slide everything inboard on your bars a bit so its not hitting your finger, ive trimmed the grip flange before aswell.
Just a heads-up: do not go with a YZ 2-stroke setup. I know because I tried an RM-Z450 clutch assembly on my son's YZ 125 and it did not work. The cable length from the sheath end to the cable end is not the same through those perches. (It's longer on the RM-Z.) In the case of the YZ, his clutch would have been constantly slipping; with a YZ perch installed on your bike, I'd estimate that you could not achieve complete disengagement.
The RM-Z cable has a big turnbuckle style adjuster on it as well as the typical wheel. Maybe that would help some? I hesitate to go aftermarket because the levers are pricey, but not as expensive as wasting money on used parts on ebay lol.
Do you have any of that old stuff still?
Sounds like you have an adjustment issue, like your cable may be stretched.
You should be able to take that out with that turnbuckle deal, I would think.
ARC levers are adjustable for reach
No, sorry; I gave it away to a guy with an RM-Z.
I had the cable adjustment at the perch set all the way loose, as well as the play adjuster on the cable. It was still pulling the clutch in and slipping the plates.
Ok, I have a little experience with this!
If you want a shorter “throw”, try removing the judder spring at the bottom of your clutch pack. Think of it this way, it pushes the stack of plates toward the pressure plate slightly so removing it shortens the travel the lever needs to make to engage/disengage the clutch. The downside is it feels a bit more like an on off switch.
I’ve pulled the judder springs without changing any other plates and had no issues.
Outside of that, call ASV. They have different leverage ratios available for their teams and may be able to make a shorter throw or tell you to run another model perch/lever combo to get the correct leverage ratio to achieve the shorter throw.
Hope that helps!
I'm very partial to WC perch with a Honda lever. Have been since 2002. Nothing fits my hand better. I very much disliked arcs and asv for some reason.
Arc memlons.
I'd recommend the works connection perch and lever for the adjustability it offers. The ASV's and some other aftermarket levers have adjustable throw, but the WC is designed with a better ratio than OEM so less pull = more travel through the cable.
Best thing i did on my rmz450 was use the magura hydro
Pit Row
Well, when I get the reach right, the lever wont disengage the engine enough. When I get the clutch right, the reach is a bit far and is tearing my finger up. The bike has 4 hours on it so it's more of an equipment/ergos thing than a wear item. I've just never had a clutch issue before lol I'm flying blind.
Move your levers in on your bars? I run mine as far in as possible. When I pull the clutch all the way in it can’t even hit my knuckles. I use my index finger. Disregard if you use your middle finger.
I mean I know it;s splitting hairs but the more I move it in, the less leverage I have. Either way, I've got them in a super "neutral" position. I think for now I'm gonna give the tusk adjustable a shot and see how that goes. It's $25 and if it's not good, so be it!
Today I did grind on the other tusk lever I had and it's fitting normally now. So I'm good to ride but bringing the KTape this time.
Good to hear from you man - I was literally just thinking of you and revisiting our email thread actually! Appreciate you dude.
Do you happen to know the torque spec of the clutch plate bolts? I am still flying without a manual lol..
I've eaten the forbidden fruit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386547751191
I'll use these and see what I do and don't like about them and then order a real setup in once I have some more experience. I forgot the judder springs were universally hated by most also. I'm really not sure what they do anyways.
I'm guessing around 10 N.m or 7.4 Lb-ft
Can we start a new sub forum for this dude and his rmz 450? Sheesh, pal
Huh? The more you move it in (towards the middle of the bar) the more leverage you have.
This…I believe the Works perch is the old CR250 design/geometry?
Very interesting topic.
I have strong hands with short fingers so perch/lever placement has always been difficult. I always liked using the Honda CR 125/250/500 perch and lever on all the different brands.
Even the size of the grips OD can affect this a lot. I prefer Renthal smaller OD soft grips.
Sorry I misunderstood. I was thinking in as in closer to the grip. If I move it more towards the forks then the lever is even further away, exacerbating the issue. My bad!
This set up is the best Works connection perch with Honda level ran that on all my rmz’s an never had an issue
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