Need some insight (Ford guys).

Do some web-surfing on the various years for the engines you’re looking at. 

I'm driving a 2020 F150 4X4 with the 2.7. Towed a 21 foot camper for a couple seasons. Mostly a daily driver really for me. Just turned over 70k . I do the oil changes at 5k with Mobil 1 . The only real complaint i have so far and ive heard this from other owners is the transmission acts a little weird every once in awhile , like its not sure what gear it wants to be in . Mostly a cold temperature related occurrence . I'm averaging 20.2 MPG ,my commute is 27 miles each way most of it being high way driving. 

Towing? If so, 3.5 Ecoboost pulls like a mini diesel. 

Not towing? 2.7.

Not towing but want a 6.5 bed (assuming u want a crew cab), 5.0.

Don't buy any of them with 3.31 gears. 3.55 or 3.73 is the way to go. 

3.3s are fine, but wont comfortably tow much, though itll likely last a shit ton of slow but trouble free miles.

I love my f150s and can probably answer alot of your questions if you have any you wanna pm me about.

I just sold my 20 max tow xlt 302a 6.5' bed. It was literally damn near the perfect half ton, aside from missing one silly amenity that i loved in my platinum and lariat ive had.... Memory seats..  i got sick of having to readjust the drivers seat to find the perfect spot after getting in after my wife drove. It was her daily and our family vehicle as i have work vehicles to drive. Can only get memory in lariat n up. 

One other huge bonus on my last truck was towing mirrors. Not only great for towing but it was the best functional mirror ive used. Can see everything. The regular small mirrors blow imo. 

Ford warranty can be expensive, but i found ziegler ford certified warranty company and theyre very fairly priced, backed by ford at any ford dealer in US, and most in Canada and Mexico. They offer warranties on used vehicles with up to 120k on them. One mishap in any of these trucks can be very costly, as you're seeing with phasers in the 5.4.. 

Yes

I don't understand why people hate on the 5.4's, I always had good luck with them and the 4.6's as well. I never ran the 5w-20 though... I still have a 6.8 currently which is a 5.4 with a couple extra cylinders. 

Everything from the ranger to the super duty's have the 10 speed now. We have a fleet of transits at work and have had good luck with the old 6 speed and 10 speed transmissions. Also had good luck with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine's. I liked mine so much I got a expedition with the 3.5, it's a workhorse. I do the weep hole mod in the intercooler and haven't had any issues with carbon build up on my work vans or my expedition. 

My last F-150 had the 5.0 and it's really good too. It won't have the torque of the Ecoboost, but it gets better mpg and sounds better. I also never felt like it was under powered for anything you could do with a half ton pickup. 

I'm the guy that keeps a car forever - have you gotten an estimate for timing chains a phasers on that 5.4? I'm not a Ford guy, but I'd imagine close to $2k out the door for parts and labor. Thats not a drop in the bucket, but if thats all that it needs, it could keep you going for years to come. If you get something newer, I'd certainly buy the warranty, and if they sell you a "bumper to bumper" warranty - get it all in writing. 

The current generation of 2.7 appears to be pretty damn solid and delivers really good mlg. 

In the configuration you want, 4X4 Super Cab/6.5’…you’ll get 20 mpg quite easily. 

When I’m at my desk in about an hour, let’s talk. 

Have a great morning & say”Hey!” to your menagerie for me. 

By 2018 they'd basically worked the bugs out of most of the ones you're looking at and any issues with a 2.7 of that vintage (there were some leakers) would have been dealt with. If you were happy with your 2008 and keep your trucks a long time the 3.3 will be the cheapest and most reliable in the long run. The others will all run circles around it, of course. 

That's what I would look into also. It might be a lot more cost effective to fix your known vehicle rather then buy used and find out why someone else sold theirs. 

Plus you will be saving that much money towards the purchase of that home you want. 

Oof, paying for a warranty is crazy to me. But I work on my own stuff.

I have an off badge special ordered 22' F150.  I think Ford is the only one you can do that.  On the title it says XLT Lariat but there is no such thing.  So it is an XLT, FX4 and Lariat package.  XLT is the truck, Lariat is the package with the huge screen, heated seats all the amenities ect. and the FX4 is the offroad package that sits a little higher and has a factory leveling kit.  It is a 5.0 Coyote with a 10 speed.  It is stupid fast and I average 18-19 mpg but get up to 22 mpg.  

The 10 speed is awesome most of the time but sucks sometimes in town.  The problem is the computer is always trying to figure out what you want to do.  As an example, the GPS posts the speed limit on the dash.  When you are in traffic and the speed limit is 25mph and you take off, it acts like it wants to take you to 25 mph.  So just rubbing your toe, 1/16 throttle it will absolutely take off with the quest of going 25.  If you are in heavy traffic driving 10 mph or starting from a stop it will sometimes confuse itself and bounce around 1st and 3rd gear.  Sometimes this causes a thunk.  Hardly ever will it go into 2nd unless you are coasting from a stop.  And if you do take off from a stop and no throttle and it goes into 2nd gear, it will run up to 25 mph if you don't hit the brake. Other than that I love it.  

Another example is on the 4 lane.  WV 4 lanes suck and have a lot of hills.  I never have to give it more than 1/8 throttle to cruise at 82 mph. It is absolutely a cruising machine and a delight to take trips in.  But there are times where it is trying to figure out what you are doing.  It is not like a regular throttle response like a cable to a carb. Sometimes you can smash into it and it will go 60 mph to 90 plus in 3 seconds.  At 60 mph you are giving it no throttle at all, just touching the pedal as light as you can. Then you mash it and it is like WTF, are we going?  Other times, it will take 5 or 6 seconds to do the same thing because it is trying to predict.  Add in all the sensors, GPS and traction control and it is sometimes a weird machine.   I don't like all the computer shit.  Sometimes its nice, other times it sucks.  Most of the time you don't notice it but other times, its just weird.  But I love the truck even compared to other F150's I've driven.  Mine is like a luxury vehicle compared to some. 

My advice is to drive a few.  Drive a new maxed out tremor with a 5.0 10 speed.  It will give you an idea.  

I'm of the same opinion.

The issue about which engine you get comes down to packaging...the 3.3s are almost exclusively in only XLs...work trucks...minimum content trucks. 

The vast majority of the trucks he's looking at are SXT and XLT...most all of which are "built out" w/2.7 Ecos. Right now he's looking at $55K trucks for around $45-46K with 3.9% money avail...which is nice (Fords "Employee Pricing" campaign plus their 3.9%...yup, kinda nice!)

That's for an XLT w/FX4 and trailer brake controller. As usual, it's a 2.7 Eco and it gets the 36 gallon tank...which I've gone over 700 miles on...again...NICE! 

Truck prices have gone KooKoo as of COVID and they haven't really backed off...but, the corporate offers make things kinda nice. I know this...I bought some rigs in '24 that were '23s for Ford offer/content reasons...things like package content were changing going into the '24 model year...so I jumped on a coupl'a rigs for 0.9-1.9%  and got the content I wanted in them (F150 Hybrids for business/Baja chase needs...towing, etc). Since then, that type of truck has gone nuts and high content versions are extremely "silly". Also, things like the lighting systems that were comparable to the Raptor or Platinum have gone away on all but the VERY expensive rigs. That sucks; because, the LED array front lighting on nicer Ford F150s is AMAZING. 

The days of getting a really nice truck for around $40K are pretty much over. 

Inflation Sucks ASS. 

Former Ford Service Manager here... Really it boils down to a couple of things.  The eco boosts timing issues are almost gone but it really depends on the driver.  The turbos will clog due to daily driving and not clean out well enough and then eventually throw timing. The fix is simple, consistent 5k oil changes with mobil 1 synthetic and run her hard from time to time to get them turbos really warm and working. 

10 speed.... yeah people like them and they are decent enough.  The stop and go is the hardest on them little suckers, so if your making trips with the truck she will be just fine, and the "hiccups" come from the computer analyzing the power output (throttle) to manage which gear to be in for best MPG. 

To be fair…and, yes, call me Captain Obvious…

“Stop and Go” or “Commuter Traffic” seems to be hard on anything this side of a manual transmission…& there’s a clutch argument to be had there, too!

Case in point: I’ve got my “COVID Van”…a 2019 Transit T150 Mid roof LWB with trailering package(pseudo T250)…bought in March of 2020…it’s got 180K on it…with one of “those” 6 speed auto trans that Ford folk know about…just changed trans fluid for THE FIRST TIME @ 170K…yup, all the while Ford folk would say “DON’T EVEN TOUCH THAT TRANSMISSION!”😂

But, truth be told…that van has a 600-720 mile commute from SoCal to Far-NorCal…it spends most of its time Hauling Ass on I-5 or US395 (the preferred route by my dog/loves to get out and run as 8,000 feet)…so, the transmission is in great shape. 

All my other Fords are 10 speeds…with Turbos…

And…as Zycki pointed out…they all seem awfully damn happy! Why? They get driven pretty damn hard…whether it’s the Bronco getting hammered at a SCORE pre-run or an F150 with a payload…they seem real happy when they’re used & treated like a race vehicle. Good oil and happy turbos! 

Have a 2015 F150 4x4 XLT 2.7

has just over 100k on it. It was hesitating like crazy last week so I changed the plugs and it's like new again.

I have a 2013 F150 with the 3.5 Eco, 120K miles.  Good truck and have done mostly regular maintenance things.  I was thinking about getting a new one, but the price is way out of my budget for replacement.  When time comes, I'm just going to repair what needs to be repaired.  

It's my understanding that you should stay away from 2017 and 2018 3.5 ecos because of cam phaser problems.  Hope you find what you are looking for.

Green's probably right about the new one being a better buy, not sure what exactly he found and not sure how the market is down there, up here it's not uncommon for dealers and private sellers to be asking damned near original sticker for used stuff, not even good used stuff. Which is still less than new, but c'mon. I have no idea who's buying, but someone must be. New pricing is the combined 'vid hangover/model E effect.

Not a huge fan of a lot of the modern niceties in vehicles, myself. Hell, AC and cruise control, cloth seats and a vinyl floor and I'm happy, basic fleet work truck, really. Cheaper 17" or 18" tires with better traction and ride. Many of the XL's and XLT's in my particular sphere are 5.0's or 3.5's. Although, to be honest, can't say I'm particularly enamoured with the F-150's. I prefer the Super Duty's, even with the mileage penalty. 

I'd also like to try a Ranger out, haven't yet but would like to. When I realized it was about the same size as the full-size trucks I grew up with is when the idea it wouldn't make a bad daily popped into my head, as long as I wasn't towing or hauling anything really heavy. The 2.3 is rock solid and gets great mileage.

I had a 2007 F150 and a 2010 F150 with a 5.4. Both needed timeset and phasers at 175,000. When I sold the 2010 it was close to 300. I still see it around town. I currently have a 2017 F250 with 6.2. I got it with 26k on it and now am at 149k. I like the power of the 6.2 but it like to drink alot. 

I'm old and pretty hard headed...if there is a V8 option...that's what I'm gonna get.😉

Clean the fuel rails and injectors out.  Basically do the shit at the dealership you don't want to do and I will tell you actually why it is beneficial 

The gas that you get from the pumps is absolute dog shit dirty.  If you run a fuel screen you are amazed. The vehicles with turbos are running a higher output per cylinder ie small liters and turbos make up the difference.  Well that entire fuel system gets corroded over time and that is what leads to the real failures. The timing issues, which lead to leaks so on so forth.  

Cleaning the injectors is like taking your wifes hair spray bottle and noticing it is all sticky and barely sprays nice(you get the principle)
Rails allows fuel to flow to the injectors, and then the turbos also get cleaned out as well from this running through the fuel system. 

Do not use Cfoam it is harsh on your rings and gaskets, but BG products are excellent and can really really add life to your vehicle. I did it to mine every 30k but every 60k is really a good thing if keeping the vehicle long term

Same, I actually drove GMC's up until Ford gave me a vehicle to drive and then it was the 5.0L F150. No replacement for displacement.  Briggs and Stratton that gets good fuel economy vs small horse working its ass off 

If you like to change your own oil like myslef the Ranger is not exactly a fun option.  You have to remove the driver side front wheel to change the oil and filter. DUMB design

Haiden just recently bought Brian a pretty sweet F250.

Can't say I've ever noticed anyone pulling the wheel off but taking a peek at it in OASIS just now it's probably the better option, now that you mention it. Wow, that looks like a PITA. That said, I'm used to fared street bikes which are somehow probably worse than that. A new vehicle for me is pure vaporware for me at this point, anyway. Probably be an F-250 for the trailer and I keep driving my old beater to work.

And I can concur with you on the BG stuff, works well. Seafoam is small engine and boat stuff.

Is the smaller engine with a turbo a 300,000 mile engine or a 200,000 mile engine? Where as the bigger liter engine is a 300,000 mile engine? It seems like the turbos have some longevity issues? I'm asking not saying.

I think I just exceeded the allowable amount of ? for a post.

The 3.5 can go 300,000 miles, you might be on your 2nd set of turbos though. Generally the turbo oil seals fail and most choose to replace them instead of rebuilding. They spin at crazy high rpm to get that boost at idle. Stay away from extended oil change intervals as well, it seems to be the in thing, but I'm pretty confident that's a major cause of Cam phaser issues going back to the 5.4's. I run euro spec 5w-40 in all my gas engines and tdi's and I've never had an issue. The 5w-20 and 0w-40 oils are a joke, ask anyone with a GM 6.2...

I have 2 friends that are Ford techs and they say the worst thing you can do is not run 5w20. Fords are built with a tight tolerance and require the lighter oil. Thy say with the 5.4 its very important with cam phasers. When I got my 07 and saw 5w20 I laughed and said no way. Put in 5w30 and was talking to them about it. Their response was if you want to put in a new motor go with 5w30 other wise run 5w20. My 6.2 uses 5w30.

I know it's not a Ford, but you may want to look at Nissan. I have heard that you can basically name a price on new vehicles. Corporate Nissan is incentivizing sales, not sale price, is what I heard. I know they used to have the Titan diesel, with a Cummins, but that may be a bust in California with diesel prices.