2024 Kawasaki KX450 and KX450X

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your...

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your other secrets. I’ve been riding / racing for 35 years. I don’t feel I’m doing anything wrong with my chain maintenance. Do you feel an X-ring chain helps the other components last longer? I’m thinking that it would only help chain life. My sprockets and sliders are shot before the chain. That’s why I went non-sealed this time. 

Markee wrote:

Just a thought, if you use that sticky chain lube in the sand, it basically turns your chain into 36 grit sand paper. Try a x ring...

Just a thought, if you use that sticky chain lube in the sand, it basically turns your chain into 36 grit sand paper. 

Try a x ring and wd40?

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your...

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your other secrets. I’ve been riding / racing for 35 years. I don’t feel I’m doing anything wrong with my chain maintenance. Do you feel an X-ring chain helps the other components last longer? I’m thinking that it would only help chain life. My sprockets and sliders are shot before the chain. That’s why I went non-sealed this time. 

Markee wrote:

Just a thought, if you use that sticky chain lube in the sand, it basically turns your chain into 36 grit sand paper. Try a x ring...

Just a thought, if you use that sticky chain lube in the sand, it basically turns your chain into 36 grit sand paper. 

Try a x ring and wd40?

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

Solid idea! I appreciate the suggestion. I will give it a go when I’m next due for chain and sprockets. 

JkopMx wrote:

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19...

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . 

Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19 ". At the discount code ... save ya some cheddar 👍🏼👍🏼 

JkopMx wrote:

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19...

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . 

Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19 ". At the discount code ... save ya some cheddar 👍🏼👍🏼 

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

Much appreciated! I actually just installed one. Also ran one on my ‘21. They are extremely durable and it doesn’t hurt that they look amazing also.

JkopMx wrote:

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19...

Dirt tricks are extremely hard to beat - 2 year warranty on the rear alone . 

Next time ya give em a try use the code -"jkopmx19 ". At the discount code ... save ya some cheddar 👍🏼👍🏼 

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

Much appreciated! I actually just installed one. Also ran one on my ‘21. They are extremely durable and it doesn’t hurt that they look amazing also.

quadzrulebro wrote:

Don’t forget to get the DT countershaft sprocket, too.  They last just as long.

mx4all wrote:

Weigh 197 lbs, former pro since I got kids and stuff nowadays but probably going as fast as ever.. still ride 3 times a week. Conditions variates...

Weigh 197 lbs, former pro since I got kids and stuff nowadays but probably going as fast as ever.. still ride 3 times a week. 

Conditions variates but it has been raining a lot this summer so not to many dry ride days. 

I've been riding mostly mx but also some enduro. Got steel sprocket  not aluminum so that makes a difference ofcourse. And the first thing I did was to throw a x ring chain on there..  

Mr. Afterbar wrote:

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your...

That sounds impossible based off my experience and the time others seem to be getting out of their drivetrain. Feel free to share any of your other secrets. I’ve been riding / racing for 35 years. I don’t feel I’m doing anything wrong with my chain maintenance. Do you feel an X-ring chain helps the other components last longer? I’m thinking that it would only help chain life. My sprockets and sliders are shot before the chain. That’s why I went non-sealed this time. 

mx4all wrote:

Anyone got a picture of the oem vs oem optional engine mounts? Are the optional mounts slimmer? by how much? Thinking of maybe mod the stockers. 

mx4all wrote:

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so...

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so other than that I dont do anything special. I changed the chainguide the first thing I did also since the stock one is so weak. Dont know why kawi and yami sticks to the aluminum one.. it bends very easy if you ride some offroad stuff. 

mx4all wrote:

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so...

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so other than that I dont do anything special. I changed the chainguide the first thing I did also since the stock one is so weak. Dont know why kawi and yami sticks to the aluminum one.. it bends very easy if you ride some offroad stuff. 

49weasel wrote:

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.    ...

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?

I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.     I usually run 2-3 chains to one set of sprockets.  
 

mx4all wrote:

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so...

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so other than that I dont do anything special. I changed the chainguide the first thing I did also since the stock one is so weak. Dont know why kawi and yami sticks to the aluminum one.. it bends very easy if you ride some offroad stuff. 

49weasel wrote:

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.    ...

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?

I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.     I usually run 2-3 chains to one set of sprockets.  
 

mx4all wrote:

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so...

As someone else mentioned allready, I blow the chain of after washing and use a non stick chain spray.. Change the masterlink after 30h or so other than that I dont do anything special. I changed the chainguide the first thing I did also since the stock one is so weak. Dont know why kawi and yami sticks to the aluminum one.. it bends very easy if you ride some offroad stuff. 

49weasel wrote:

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.    ...

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?

I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.     I usually run 2-3 chains to one set of sprockets.  
 

MX529 wrote:

Same here. swap out chain and sprockets 10-15 hrs maxOnce you pull on the chain at the rear sprocket and you can see daylight or bottom...

Same here. swap out chain and sprockets 10-15 hrs max

Once you pull on the chain at the rear sprocket and you can see daylight or bottom of the teeth starting to show it’s time to replace, just cheap,insurance 

After the teeth tend to wear to a point , I’ve seen the hardened countershaft teeth start to wear  out bending the teeth forward from wear as the chain stretches in creates wear grooves 

450’s are hard on chains and drivelines 

49weasel wrote:

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.    ...

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?

I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.     I usually run 2-3 chains to one set of sprockets.  
 

MX529 wrote:

Same here. swap out chain and sprockets 10-15 hrs maxOnce you pull on the chain at the rear sprocket and you can see daylight or bottom...

Same here. swap out chain and sprockets 10-15 hrs max

Once you pull on the chain at the rear sprocket and you can see daylight or bottom of the teeth starting to show it’s time to replace, just cheap,insurance 

After the teeth tend to wear to a point , I’ve seen the hardened countershaft teeth start to wear  out bending the teeth forward from wear as the chain stretches in creates wear grooves 

450’s are hard on chains and drivelines 

Slaughter612s wrote:

Good talk about chains. What brand is preferred for you guys? 10-20 hrs on a DID chain seems low. But I could be off on this...

Good talk about chains. What brand is preferred for you guys? 10-20 hrs on a DID chain seems low. But I could be off on this. Cheers 

49weasel wrote:

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.    ...

You’re running a chain for 30hrs ?

I might be crazy but I’m swapping a chain every 10-12 hrs no matter  what brand of chain.     I usually run 2-3 chains to one set of sprockets.  
 

Kris Keefer wrote:

Happy New Year Everyone.  I’ve been riding this 24’ KX450 A LOT on my holiday and sure the airbox is small/choked up but the sealing has...

Happy New Year Everyone. 
I’ve been riding this 24’ KX450 A LOT on my holiday and sure the airbox is small/choked up but the sealing has been decent if you oil your filter correctly. The key is to make sure you slide the outer portion of the filter plate into the airbox correctly and get those plastic pins inside the holes, then snap in. I’ve rushed it once and “almost” screwed it up so it can happen. I’ve seen one buyer suck dirt and Kawasaki warranty’d it but it looked like the filter didn’t have much oil on it. 
 

As far as Michael doing shootout with grommet in, that would be KX450 comparison suicide. 😂 It’s really slow with grommet in (almost like ISDE type muffler feel). Twin Air is making filters (I’ve been running a couple) and they also will seal a little better. I’m running an open cage from Justin Kopcak (find him on Instagram) and that helps low end snap too. The cage is 3D printed like the photo above in this thread. 
 

I did an podcast/update on the KX450 before I went on holiday and that is up on my site but mapping the stock ECU doesn’t help engine braking. There is a map on my site that I’ve ran that helped power but not engine brake feel. Im currently on a TD Vortex ECU and that has made HUGE difference in torque feel and overall power output. I’ve noticed that the KX450 has the tallest 1st gear known to man and is actually usable in some tight corners of moto tracks (if you can believe that)! I do have to ride this KX in second more than YZ450 but 2nd gear is so long that I'm used to it now. I’ve gone up to a 51T to help response down low (and recovery feel when I screw up). 
 

Vibration is still an issue with me as I notice more through my hands/feet than a YZ but similar to a CRF. 

For me, this is a better KX450 than 23’. I like chassis more and I don’t mind a slower 450 feel as long as it doesn’t feel heavy. With the mods I’ve done to ours, the bike doesn’t feel heavy. It did feel a little heavy pre Vortex. I’d rather add power (if needed) than try to take away. That is a little more tricky to do. -KK

 

Happy New Year

JkopMx wrote:

appreciate it KK.  we have plenty of cages if any if you guys want some - dm me or hit me up on Instagram.  im at...

appreciate it KK. 

we have plenty of cages if any if you guys want some - dm me or hit me up on Instagram. 

im at the 8/10 hour mark on my own 24- 

loving the chassis feel, I have now moved onto KYB forks and x trigs - which the showa are still good but man do I love me some KYB done by enzo on this bike- even better front end feel and comfort . 

I'm awaiting an HGS pipe, and I think I'll be happy after that ( really wish I didn't sell my vortex from my 23) . 
 

Nick4Mx wrote:

Did you keep the Showa Shock?

Nick4Mx wrote:

Did you keep the Showa Shock?

JkopMx wrote:

I did only because KYB hasn't released it at the time . Currently tryin to get a shock now tho . Multiple people jump on this bike and...

I did only because KYB hasn't released it at the time . 

Currently tryin to get a shock now tho . 

Multiple people jump on this bike and have purchased KYB afterwards . If your thinking about it - don't - 

Just do it . 

mx4all wrote:

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking...

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking good and in spec and also the hydro oil looking new.

mx4all wrote:

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking...

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking good and in spec and also the hydro oil looking new.

Nick4Mx wrote:

Did you keep the Showa Shock?

JkopMx wrote:

I did only because KYB hasn't released it at the time . Currently tryin to get a shock now tho . Multiple people jump on this bike and...

I did only because KYB hasn't released it at the time . 

Currently tryin to get a shock now tho . 

Multiple people jump on this bike and have purchased KYB afterwards . If your thinking about it - don't - 

Just do it . 

mx4all wrote:

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking...

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking good and in spec and also the hydro oil looking new.

mx4all wrote:

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking...

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking good and in spec and also the hydro oil looking new.

alycium102 wrote:

I just changed my clutch Friday, Saturday it ran well and decent enough. Sunday, it was hot and very humid and bike would shut off shifting...

I just changed my clutch Friday, Saturday it ran well and decent enough. Sunday, it was hot and very humid and bike would shut off shifting into second on the gate. Took a min to restart, then died a few times on the track. Clutch is fully in correctly, got it home and bled the line, lots and lots of bubbles in the line. Lever was still spongey so did the zip tie trick last night and pressure is back in the lever but who knows for how long? Couple other guys on previous generation 250s had the same issue. Seems these kawis don’t like the high heat/humidity. 

mx4all wrote:

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking...

Anyone had the clutch fading? Seem to faid when getting hot sometimes. It engages much closer to the handlebar compared to normal. Frictionplates and steels looking good and in spec and also the hydro oil looking new.

alycium102 wrote:

I just changed my clutch Friday, Saturday it ran well and decent enough. Sunday, it was hot and very humid and bike would shut off shifting...

I just changed my clutch Friday, Saturday it ran well and decent enough. Sunday, it was hot and very humid and bike would shut off shifting into second on the gate. Took a min to restart, then died a few times on the track. Clutch is fully in correctly, got it home and bled the line, lots and lots of bubbles in the line. Lever was still spongey so did the zip tie trick last night and pressure is back in the lever but who knows for how long? Couple other guys on previous generation 250s had the same issue. Seems these kawis don’t like the high heat/humidity. 

quadzrulebro wrote:

Honestly, I’ve never had problems with a clutch on any 450 I’ve owned, nor have I heard of any.  If you’re a chronic clutch abuser, it’s...

Honestly, I’ve never had problems with a clutch on any 450 I’ve owned, nor have I heard of any.  If you’re a chronic clutch abuser, it’s probably not a bad idea to step up to a pro Hinson or Rekluse setup that is built for the abuse.

Mx451 wrote:

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing...

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing now! Didn't hate it before but I wanted to try "the Jody" on this bike. Also, when I did this I inspected the chain slider and guide. It wasn't even 25% worn down. 

Mx451 wrote:

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing...

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing now! Didn't hate it before but I wanted to try "the Jody" on this bike. Also, when I did this I inspected the chain slider and guide. It wasn't even 25% worn down. 

Duke28 wrote:

How much better was the handling/stability with rear wheel moved back? And how far back did you go? 

Mx451 wrote:

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing...

Add me to the list of people that added one tooth to the rear with a longer chain to move the axle back. Love the gearing now! Didn't hate it before but I wanted to try "the Jody" on this bike. Also, when I did this I inspected the chain slider and guide. It wasn't even 25% worn down. 

Duke28 wrote:

How much better was the handling/stability with rear wheel moved back? And how far back did you go? 

Mx451 wrote:

Turning seemed unaffected and straight line stability was noticeably better especially in breaking bumps and chop. I mostly did it for the gearing change but the...

Turning seemed unaffected and straight line stability was noticeably better especially in breaking bumps and chop. I mostly did it for the gearing change but the handling was a nice bonus. The axle is probably a quarter inch from being fully back.