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That’s funny. That is honestly one of my favorite upgrades to the 24. I appreciate not ripping a hole in the end of my grip every time I tip over in a corner.
I don’t like the way they feel. They are slightly larger than my preferred grip. Also, I don’t like a little screw holding my grip on although I have yet to see It cause an issue. I keep the lock on grips in my van for back up. To each their own.
Yea it’s good might sound crazy but I went 2 clicks on fork compression, and it’s good , I’m getting the spring perches now I’m excited for those most of all
I hate lock ons lol, I switched bars and put normal grips on quickly, I dont like how the lockons are slightly bigger, plus I like running a smoother throttle tube.
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Anything special removing rear shock? Haven't tried yet but my last 450 (17 KTM) was damn near criminal what you had to do to remove.
I don't remember it being too bad. Pretty sure I removed the exhaust and pulled it through the subframe.
I've been pulling my Kawis apart to grease bearings every 10 hours. Just had to replace the bottom shock bearing and countershaft seal at 23 hours.
Nope. It was a piece of cake. I took off the muffler and unbolted the subframe and pulled it to the side (didn’t need to remove the air boot).
Awesome, appreciate it!
I got the JBI DIY pro kit front and rear and it is pretty freakin good.
It is super plush with good hold up.
Actually feels way better than my ktm conevalve/trax and yzf kyb suspension
I just switched from lock ons to glue ons & holy smokes. I have been on lock ons for 5 years & I felt unbelievable today 😂 I am not even kidding. I’m sold.
In other notes! My new 24 is unreal. I’m very happy with it. Comfortable. I have been testing out different maps with my vortex & I ran map 2 today which was rock solid. Got all my seals fixed. Super bummer they use k mart seals on these things.
I was running forks at 5 mm (1st line) but I moved then up to almost flush. Probably 1 mm. Feel like it actually helped front end stability. I was kinda washing the front coming into turns so thought maybe I was oversteering. Forks at 1 mm in combination with the glue on grips taking me next level. Anyway, everything is sick I’m jazzed upppp big time
Hell yeah! Music to my ears...just need mine to arrive!
I’ve gay RT, revalved forks on my 22,they are great
Uh GOT!
Anyone else have a hard time with hot starts? 4hrs on the bike. Riding track last night and chugged out in a few corners. Felt like I was holding the start button way too long before it would finally fire back up.
Note the new side panel slats cut for improved breathing on JA’s factory bike for todays race. I’m surprised they didn’t do this a while ago.
I cut out my airbox, but didn’t really feel any difference. Between the PC pipe, pulling out the airbox plug, putting in the Chavez map, my bike makes more power than I know what to do with, anyway.
I’m quite confident that JA21’s power requirements might be a bit different than mine.
Curious how many of you guys have experimented with different maps? Seems the Rideology app is pretty limited in making drastic changes. I have the Chavez map in the app, but haven't uploaded it yet. Was just wondering if there were any other maps guys liked.
Gotta uncork the motor first.. with aftermarket muffler, baffle mod or full exhaust system
I’m running the Chavez with full PC exhaust system it’s definitely an improvement over the stock mapping
Pit Row
Yup. Already removed the rubber grommet. Admittedly I have not removed the silencer insert. Would just assume install a slip-on instead and keep it unmolested.
Is there a better tutorial for the app? Or just figure it out with the in app directions. Trying to avoid buying a ECU.
Cheers
Chavez is the one I use combined with a PC pipe. I run a Twin Air filter. I'm very happy with the power output of my bike. Mike Chavez has been wrenching at the top level since the Damon Bradshaw days, so I'm thinking he did a better job of coming up with a map than I could, anyway.
https://youtu.be/unL4ZObuK50?si=TeODyHkSb7i-scNs
Click on tuning, then upload a new map
used the Chavez map.. you just click or toggle these numbers into each column then click the send or upload button the bikes ECU
It’s pretty simple and takes only a few minutes
I appreciate it. Thank you.
Anyone have any info on the wash cover for the power flow kit?
I can help you
We are on the final revision of our DCMX ones. Fingers crossed this will be the ticket…. We were off by about 3mm
Any special tools needed for those that tackled the JBI DIYs? I’m leaning towards this option the more I ride the bike. Stock stuff is nice but too soft for my liking.
Go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and make sure you have the correct spring rates before you mess with the valving. I’m pretty tall, so the stock shock spring was way too soft for me. The other way to know if your shock spring is the correct weight is to set your sag then check your static sag. If it doesn’t have enough static sag, then you need a stiffer spring. Too much static sag, you need a softer one. I always like getting my spring rates right before I mess with the valving.
https://motocrossactionmag.com/bare-bones-how-static-sag-can-help-you-choose-the-right-spring-rate/
Just finished up my DIY JBI kit front and rear last weekend. I had done fork seals and shock rebuilds before. Changing shims and replacing various parts on the fork was new to me.
All your valving (shock, fork compression and base valve) will have a peened nut that has to be filed down, then threaded off. JB supplies a replacement nut for the shock, but does not supply replacements for the fork nuts. I did not file the peens, I used my belt sander with a 240 grit belt.
Holding the dampener rod or the compression dampener on the fork was the biggest challenge on my end. Those things are SLICK even when dry. The kit will come with a new rebound "perch" and sub valve assembly, so the old need to be removed. Right or wrong, I applied heat, then let cool and they spun right off. I highly recommend getting some shaft soft jaws for your vise. I used a stauff clamp to hold the shaft in my vise.
Have any questions, I'll help however I can.
This is part 1 of 4 from JBI.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6rh9_3Sz1c
Was curious if anyone has made something similar to this with a bigger turning surface and bigger flat head to adjust the rear shock rebound without dropping the linkage? This is what comes with the WP6500 dropins.
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