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Check the main ecu plug. Mine had water and I went through the entire bike with di electric grease and haven’t had an issue since.
Will check that out, thanks
The kill/map switch is known to go bad with water. I sealed mine with silicone. I’ve also heard the water temp sensor on side of the cylinder can go bad.
Would that throw any codes for the water temp sensor? Also did you replace your kill/map switch as well?
Went the Di electric route with all the electronics under the seat including the ecu. Went out to the trails and about 10 minutes in it cut out once again, back firing a little bit before it happened. I started it right after and it starts for 1 second and cuts off then won’t start again unless you let it sit for 5 minutes then it will ride fine for another 5 before cutting out again. Kinda mad it’s not throwing codes either.
If that water sensor sensed it being to “hot” would it shut it down? That might explain it running 10 minutes from being cold fine to only going 5 minutes after letting it sit from hot running fine.
Also the light is going orange on the map switch. Which per the manual says flashing orange means check electrical parts. But this orange light is solid and it comes on when you touch the starter after it’s been sitting. But still no codes
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My map switch was blinking and wouldn’t let me change maps. I’d replace both and see if that fixes your problem. There was a podcast with Keefer and Dubach, they were saying they both had water temp sensors go bad. Not sure if it’s from pressure washing or just going bad from heat.
maybe check your spark plug is tight, coil is tight and no loose ground wires. I doubt it’s any of that, agreed it sounds heat related.
Gotcha, thanks. Might even email keefer and see what was going on with his. Was this on keefers pod?
It was either #375 Yamaha garage build or #374 with Chad from XPR.
Hope that helps!
anyone know if wheels from a 2019 yz450f will fit?
Like butta - but the 2019 YZ450F may have a slightly larger rear rotor (245-mm was a 2019 only size?) that may require replacing to run with your stock rear brake bracket.
(yes, direct fit)
glad to hear, i was skeptical because the part numbers for the rear hubs are different, but the axle sizes are the same so i wasnt sure. thank you
Question for someone with 3D printer knowledge. How hard would it be to replicate item 14? Currently, the 450 primarily draws air from the left corner. My thought is to make one that is solid all the way across, then drill holes on both the left and right sides. In my mind, this could more evenly distribute airflow and/or allow the user the ability to restrict the airflow, based on the size of the holes vs. the MXA recommendation of duct taping off the left side to help smooth out the power.
It wouldn’t be super hard but also not super easy. Probably easier to buy the oem part.
If someone had a 3D scanner it would be easy.
I get 35 - 100mm of sag with 6.0 spring.. what do you think I get with the stock spring?
Dont remember the only thing I think I measured was 38-112 or something on the stocker. Thinking of maybe switching back
Update:
Just replaced both water temp sensor and kill/map switch and the problem still persist if not stalling out quicker the more times I ride it to troubleshoot. Still no codes. Could it be the stator? Not sure what could be wrong and not show some type of problem code. Would a bad ecu show any codes?
Talk to Josh at 3DPMoto. If anyone would know and could do it, it would be him.
35-100 sounds perfect, the spring will break in a little. Ride it for a month and recheck it
That part would be a little tough because of the thin walls, 3D printers really don't like thin walls very much and the geometry would also be a bit challenging because supports would be required. Printing from resin would potentially be an option, but you would still have the relatively high cost of either 3D scanning the OEM part or having to reverse engineer it by hand.
I'm not convinced of the theory behind distributing airflow into the airbox though. From any testing I have done it always indicates that the more air that enters the airbox the better on these bikes, I can't see balancing it out left to right making much of a difference at all or why you would want to restrict it other than for inclement conditions like mud. These bikes are incredibly choked up from the factory which is why I sell the intake scoops, even if you're not looking for more power the bike will feel more free-reving and cleaner throughout the rpm range, which is a benefit at any skill level. Plus, most importantly, it sounds really cool
So where are we at with clutch variations? Whose running something other than stock. Thoughts? Ill typically run the stock set up till its done for but if theres some hot set up for longevity, i may do it.
Mines still at 0 hours but i keep buying cool stuff lol. WC mounts with raptor pegs was the latest. Took me till almost 40 to convince myself of titanium pegs lol. Considering the gytr ignition cover and some variety of clutch cover.
Did i see a luxon ignition cover?!
Pit Row
I can only speak to what I have done so take it for what it’s worth... I burned through the stock clutch in less than 10hrs on my ‘23 and replaced them with Hinson plates and fibers. I then put roughly 30 hours on the next two clutches using Hinson. Now I’m about 11 hours into my ‘24 and the clutch feels soft already. I have some Hinson plates and fibers left over from my ‘23 that I’ll throw in there and I assume I’ll get similar results to the ‘23.
I am hard on clutches because I use it too often. Too old to try and change now, but 30 hours is good for me and the price difference is negligible 👍
Are there two hinson options or did i misread that somewhere? I too am a little clutch heavy. Have been my whole life so i feel ya. Lol
There is only one option that I’m aware of. Things may have changed in regard to what they offer for that bike now, but the standard plates and fibers seems to make the new clutch style on these bikes work as well (or better) than the last gen bike.
Hinson makes a stiffer Belleville washer that I’d recommend if you’re going through the clutch quickly.
With all the rain in California this year I only got something like four or five hours out of the stock clutch and then only seven hours out of the Hinson clutch pack the first go around.
After that, I added their inner hub and the stiffer pressure plate spring and then got about 15 hours out of the next clutch. Maybe a little more.
Little stiffer pull than stock, but I run the hydraulic master, so it isn’t much of an issue.
so yamaha manual says like 97-100 race sag, keefer, mxa, other big bike testers all recommend like 102-104mm, and FC/Enzo recommend 105-110...
110 seems like a lot anyone have any feedback on such the wide variation?
Just got my stuff back from FC and really looking forward to it tomorrow at the track, ill report back. I told them to do as many gucci internals as they offer, I wanted as close to Kit performance without the DLC/Kashima coatings.
Mind asking what they did and what they charged? I’m thinking of going that route
No Luxon ignition or clutch covers available for the four strokes, just the two strokes.
Good deal. I've been meaning to check and see if they had released any more clutch components. Good to see that they have. I'm pretty happy with the Hinson plates/fibers with stock everything else, but I'll be sure and look into it if things go south.
Boooo... Lol
The rear basically got allparts factory parts replaced with FC parts, new bladder kit, new valving, new valving piston, new shock spring for my weight(200lbs)
Forks got new springs for my weight, valving for intermediate MX, and other internal parts they upgraded to help with the feel and bottoming resistance.
Rode about five 10-15min motos, on an AZ track, sloppy and dug deep in the morning, and hardpack and dry in the after noon. with two mixed sand sections of real soft but dry sand.
I noticed almost immediately after coming onto the track, hitting the first table, and accelerating to the next corner how much better it felt. My bike always felt like it handled bumps well in the sense that It wasnt kicking me side to side and i felt like i still had good traction and drive, but I definitely felt the bike moving underneath me and would squeeze tighter and brace in order to anticipate this. With the FC stuff, the landing from the table was even smoother and through the bumps into the corner it felt really level and like the wheels were moving but the frame and seat were staying flat.
The turn in I think was slightly less aggressive, i feel like stock from yamaha the bike carved corners at the initial turn in. The bike still feels really good in corners, turns sharp, and i still have the ability to put it anywhere I want, but there is an ever so subtle loss of that initial turn in surgical precision. I think this is do to running my sag at 105. FC recommends 105-110, i usually run 100-102 at most as I like more weight over the front and a lot of front end traction. But I decided what the point in spending all this money if I wasnt going to listen to what the experts recommend lol, next session I am going to change my sag to 110 and see what the difference is, but I feel like ill come to 105.
Overall the bike feels more balance and predictable, again the stock kyb stuff was really good, but you could definitely feel it working, now the bike feels more calm and the suspension is working just as good but you dont "feel" it working. I can also say on the stock stuff if you over jumped anything while the KYB stuff handled it well, there was always a bounce up afterwards like most bikes have were it could be easy to get out of control. Over jumped a few things yesterday and it soaks it up just fine and then stays flat and doesn't give you that rebound hop. The bike feels much more balanced and less reactive to any mistakes you may make.
To me it was totally worth it and I am beyond happy with the the performance. I paid 1300 including shipping both ways. I believe a regular revalve without the upgraded internal parts I also went with is closer to 900. Again itll vary slightly for every bike and individual. hope this help.
PS turn around time was 1 week, shipped monday, they got it wed, and I had it on my front door the following wed. Minimal down time is a huge factor for me. They also took to the time to talk to me, ask about my riding style and what i was looking for, for a solid 30 minutes to make sure they got the set up right.
I see your Altus stickers on the bike, would you mind sharing what you paid? PM if you don't want to post. I've bought several bikes from them already.
Sounds about right with the spring change and all the internals. Yamaha stock kyb is for masses and they make it plush with valving from the factory. So your settings should hold up into the stroke more thus giving you that feeling on turn in. Pair that up with a stiffer shock and you will have less pitching. Sounds like they did well if you are barely noticing a difference on that turn in. Congrats!
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