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I don't know if I would go that route. You're goal is to raise the level in the outer chamber. With the bleed screw the oil will fill the free piston. It will eventually make its way into the other chamber.
The 24 forks are much better stock than the old bike. I'll still be putting.52 springs in mine and getting it revalved.
Adding 50cc in one shot into the bleed screw is not a good idea. The bleed screws lead to the space in the inner cartridge that is above the compression assembly free piston. You need the oil in the outer chamber, not the inner chamber. Yes, the oil "should" eventually work its way through the bleed holes to the outer chamber as the fork cycles, but 50cc is a lot for this and could cause some hydraulic locking initially until it woks to the outer chamber. Also, it is tedious to try to get that much oil in through the tiny bleed hole. You could do 10cc, ride, repeat x5, but that's even more tedious.
Easiest thing to do, put bike on stand, loosen top pinch bolts, remove bar clamp nuts under the top clamp and pull the bars and clamps up and move them front out of the way. Loosen the fork top caps, push down on the front end and the damping cartridges will come up and out of the forks. Now you can add the 50cc directly to the outer chambers where it belongs.
How is the shock? On my ‘19, I had to go with a much stiffer shock spring and a slightly stiffer fork spring. I revalved the forks to get more hold up, but left the shock valving alone because I thought it worked well once I installed the recommended 6.0 shock spring (I’m 6’3” and about 215). I’ll be picking mine up as soon as they complete the epoxy fix.
Not bad, maybe a little soft and fast on rebound. The 24 is pretty balanced stock, I just want to stiffen and slow both ends down. I also want to install a 116 chain and get the axle further back. She felt kinda twitchy last ride.
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Did you change gearing?
I'm going to switch to a 51. With the baffles removed and holes drilled in the air box, it feels similar to my old bike. Once I get the Vortex mapped, I bet it rips.
Still hate the air filter. I'm also undecided on the frame epoxy.
You riding anywhere in Nc or VA this weekend? You were my local track whisperer last year on a trip, heading to south fork for Friday to test out some maps on my 24
I’m running the clamps and KYB forks off of my 22 SR. I’d say they have the same effect as they did on the previous model which for me feels almost like a more exact/accurate front end where I can feel the rut and where my tire is contacting better than stock clamps. Maybe a little bit more rigid but you’re going to get that if you want more feel, I like them the most just for the bar/mount setup compared to stock clamps which get twisted too easily.
I'm planning on riding at Weinerts both days. I haven't been to South Fork in a while, but it's was a damn good track last time I went.
My bike felt very busy last weekend. I want to spend a weekend figuring out the bike, only have 3.5 hours on it. Probably going to drop the sag to 108, I ran 108 on my 22.
I wanted to ride Weinerts but the 9 hour drive home from south fork vs 12 hour drive home from Weinerts Sunday after three days of riding made the decision for me lol
Sounds like you say this with recent experience...
The bleed screw does not go into the inner chamber. It goes to the outer chamber. If excess oil is in the inner chamber, there is a bleed passage that purges to the outer chamber. That is why there is air to bleed as there is an air gap in the outer chamber. Yes-you can add oil through the bleed screw.
Bleed screw definitely goes into inner chamber. Yes you can add through the bleed screw. The fluid will fill the free piston and eventually get the the outer chamber.
Bleed screw 100% does NOT go into the inner chamber. It will possibly sit on top of the free piston and then make its way into outer chamber. Whether it has an effect on outer chamber volume straight away is something I would like to know from someone who knows more than me?
The free piston is inside the inner chamber...
You guys should go check your manual before you want to argue with a carpenter on Vitalmx.
The free piston is the separator of the inner and outer chambers. So below is the sealed inner chamber and above is vented to the outer.
Pit Row
I guess it is but the bleed hole goes to the top side of the free piston not the sealed side of the inner cartridge. So adding oil through the bleed hole does not add oil to the inner cartridge. So does it add oil volume to the outer cartridge straight away, my guess would be yes but I'm no expert.
Venting to the outer chamber is the key.
My microwave vents to outside my house, doesn't mean my microwave is outside.
Here is the deal, last time I serviced my forks I had the inner damper and bleed screw in one hand. The outer chamber in another.
I'll say it for the 3rd time. The oil will sit on the free piston and eventually make its way to the outer chamber.
Fuck
Calm down, this is a discussion not an argument. You said the added oil will go to the inner chamber. It will not go to the sealed inner chamber, it will go to the top of the free piston which is actually the outer chamber. Anyway i think most can agree this fork needs more outer chamber oil.
Anyone else get the fix done yet on the frame? How does it look? Will the paint just wash off the epoxy? Not sure how long the recall is good for and if I should get it done or wait.
I have researched this a bit. If you get it done, there is no drawback. If you get it done and the frame cracks, they should replace the frame. If you don't get it done, and the required time passes......and then your frame cracks, you won't have anything to go back on. I don't think this is a wide spread problem (cracking frame) and Kawasaki is trying to be proactive to prevent any problems. I would just get it done and RIDE!!!
What the gentleman from Teton County said is right.
My bad, it's Friday and I've been listening to Metallica and building a deck
Nice work, I need one of those. Starting to get est. and getting sticker shock. Someone has to pay for those 75k trucks and 15k dirt bikes.
I’d like to see a dyno run with just the baffles and screen removed. Based on what I see on that dyno chart, I’d bet you could get the majority of the power gain for free.
Anyone else notice a slight squealing noise when at idle? When I pull the clutch in it tends to go away or get quieter. I don't have any hours on the bike yet it's literally brand new. Do they still have he pushrod noise?
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