So I’ve been struggling with finding N just like everybody else on my KTM. I got tired of coming in from my motos and looking like a spode (which is easy enough anyway) trying to find N only to give up and just put it on the stand and reach down and do it – or even worse having to do it on the starting line. I have been thinking about this ever since I saw what the problem was. So I measured the diameter of the roller on the shift start locating arm (circled in red), then used the same diameter bit and milled about 1/32” to increase the depth of the N detent (see green line). My thinking is that I NEVER use 1st gear – So I’m not afraid of hitting any false N's going from 1st to 2nd like KTM is. Yes, I know the part is made from some special hardened metal, and that one of the only changes to the 2018 was changing the material this part was made out – some special unobtainium ceramic platinum diamond stuff…..whatever I don’t care the part cost $20-30 if I fuck it up. SUCCESS!! My bike snicks into N just like any other bike now and it shifts from 1 to 2 just like before. If you have an Austrian brand you better do this before I patent the process. It’s just another KTM thing.
There's nothing there that would be applicable towards a patent. All you did was take an existing design and massage the contact pattern to permit easier shifting into neutral, which I think is a terrible idea BTW.
You certainly use 2nd gear while riding, how do you know you haven't created a higher likelihood of slipping into neutral from 2nd gear?
I didn’t until I tried it. But logic told me you are never under load going from 2st to 1st and like I said I never use 1st. That detent is only to keep it in N not to keep it in gear. The only risk is the N detent is now too deep and you risk it locating there while going past it from 1 to 2. Thus a false N.
as far as patent goes. You’re right but too late now. I just licensed it instead, so if you do it without paying me and I find out I can take your bike 😂🛠️
BTW if you think it’s a terrible idea. You obviously don’t own an Austrian bike
Definitely own several Austrian bikes and have never had a real problem looking for neutral, in fact im actually happy its harder to find neutral.
Did you leave the peak on each side the same height as they were stock and just make the valley deeper? Your drawing shows you taking material out of the entire area which could definitely cause issues with it jumping to neutral from 2nd gear. When you hit large bumps or land jumps, your shifter will actually move and if that peak into neutral isn't as large there is a change it could pop into neutral. If you don't believe me on that, there are some bikes that actually use a stiffer than factory spring on the shift shaft to help this issue. The shifter would move enough on hard landings that it would just barely catch the next gear and cause transmission damage. I don't think I've ever seen anyone want to make it easier to get to N but yes your modification will definitely do that.
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I wish bikes were made with N at the bottom and a lockout mechanism/lever. It would be impossible to hit N when you don't want to, and impossible to miss when you do want to.
This was a common mod on other bikes years ago (been a while, can't remember exactly which ones).
Going the other direction, some Kawi's were prone to hit neutral inadvertently, so they'd grind the top point off each side of the star, doing the opposite of what you're trying to achieve.
You don’t look like a Spode, but are a Spode if you can’t get it in neutral. I have currently and have owned multiple Austrian brand bikes and don’t struggle with this. They feel identical to all other brands including my 2024 Beta 300 and 2022 CRf250R sitting right next to my husky and KTM’s in my garage.
MXtech1 is not wrong. Your modification is sketchy at best. I hope you have good insurance to cover the liability this part will cause if sold publicly.
Not to mention posting your invention on a public forum would invalidate any patentable claim anyway lol.
I don't like this due to the possibility of slipping from second into neutral.
You say you won't use first gear. If any thing, you could have left the transition from neutral to second profile alone, and only moded the first to neutral profile.
There is so much force from the engine to the gears, through the shift forks to the star wheel. Small changes need to be thought through, you may experience increased transmission wear.
Good luck.
I have a ‘22 MC450. Never have experienced shifting issues.
False neutral and true neutral are 2 different things. You are talking about ease of shifting into true neutral position. Just because it takes more effort and precision to get into neutral doesn’t inherently make it a bad design. It has a purpose and you’ve now defeated that
False neutrals typically happen in the higher gears. Correcting these issues typically involves modifying the dog profiles and/or shift forks to change the engagement strategy.
My biggest concern with your post is that there’s no data to support your “improvement” and clearly a lack of testing to show that you haven’t introduced new system risks. Hope you have good legal representation for when someone does this and they get injured from the bike falling into neutral from 2nd gear due to unforeseen loading or modal frequency.
Some bikes are easier than others to find neutral. Had many bikes including late model KTMs but never had an issue finding neutral. Hard to believe it's enough of an issue worthy of splittng the cases and modding the transmission.
If I left the peak the same on both sides it would do absolutely nothing, I machined the indent the exact same circumference just about 1/32 deeper, so the locating arm can find it easier Their is ZERO possibility of my bike jumping out of gear hitting bumps etc unless I modified the notches for those gears the only risk I run is having my bike go into N when going from 1 to 2. Which according to more than one mag is the reason it was designed like that in the first place. This is a known very common problem at least on KTM’s, anyone who isn’t aware of it hasn’t been paying attention. One of the methods is to rev your bike and snicking to N when the revs drop. Huh? Yeah - No
"One of the methods is to rev your bike and snicking to N when the revs drop."
Been using that technique on many bikes for over 40 years.
No splitting cases or modding of tranny required. Just need to remove your clutch and side case. I’ve been meaning to send it out for a long time and finally got access to a mill with exact diameter bit I needed to do it myself 10 mins to remove 10 mins to reinstall and 5 mins to set up and machine - which means it only takes 2 hours.
I got that from Jody and The Gang. That was their solution. It works on most bikes. KTMs only about half the time
If you are leaving the "peaks" the same I see nothing wrong with doing this good on ya.
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