Posts
158
Joined
10/12/2013
Location
Roselle, IL, USA
Hi guys
I purchased the Tusk Flywheel removal tool for $20 to "pull" the flywheel (magneto). So no problem there.
My problem is I cant break loose the nut on the crankshaft to remove the flywheel.
Suzuki makes a special tool (09930 44560) to "hold" the rotor from moving while you break the nut loose.
that tool is like $125 and I will use it 1 time and never again - wont' be able to sell it or return it
I tried making my own but not working very well. no luck.
Anybody have any suggestions how to hold the rotor so i can get the nut loose?
See link to photo below
Heavy impact will usually get it off. Back in my dumb days I've put a 3/8" extension through the upper rod hole and cranked it off that way, but not recommended.
x2 on what 40acres said. Impact is the way to go. Makes the job simple.
Word to the wise, if your puller tool came with a small cap, make sure you use it when you use the puller. Most 4-strokes use the center of the crank as an oil passage and if you forget the cap you will smash the oil passage shut.
sure - but I still have to hold the rotor for a couple seconds while using the impact to break the nut loose.
suggestions?
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Geez..........didnt know that
yes it comes with some caps.
ok - thanks for the tip - was wondering what those were for..
I have always put on a glove and held it by hand. Hit it with the impact and can feel it fighting then just hammers.
ok - if that's what you think may work I'll try it. sounds a little dangerous or potentially damaging to components
Lefty Loosy - correct? counterclockwise to loosen the nut?
if you are questioning everything so much already, it might be a better option to have a capable mechanic/shop handle it for you. I'm not saying this negatively or sarcastically but I get lots of bikes in after people try to DIY themselves which ends up costing alot more time and money. But yes, an impact to loosen it, don't really need to hold it with an impact. To tighten it, you will need to hold it either with a holder tool or jam the gears or hold the bolt on the bother side
I got no problem bringing to a shop - but I'm like 90% done with the job - did the whole top end replacement and changed valve shims and all good - except this 1 issue.
Just need to loosen that nut and remove the magneto and find the problem behind there - fix it - then replace the chain and put it back together - rotate it a few times and check valve clearance one last time before completing the job.
Just sucks that something so easy like removing a nut can be difficult and require a "specialty tool" as Suzuki calls it. All the tool does is hold the rotor from turning while you loosen the nut. That said......definitely an impact gun hitting it quickly may solve the problem without the specialty tool.
thanks.
Did you get it off? When I did my motor a few months back I used a motion pro gear jammer tool on the primary drive and balancer gear to keep everything from spinning while I loosened it. I have an air gun at my disposable also but my flywheel nut didn't give me too much trouble so just just did it this way. Good luck
That is a Spocket jammer as it says. You need the gear jammer 08-0427. One is for chain & sprockets the other is for gears. Before I bought the Jammers I would fold a penny and wedge it in the gears. Dont mean to criticize.
yeah I know, I was going to make a note that the correct tool isn't pictured. But I have both. Great stuff as always with motion Pro
Yes I got it off, but not without a learning experience.
Made some mistakes.
If I had the flywheel holder it would have been easy
I also screwed up using the Tusk puller. I had the Cap screwed all the way in, preventing the magneto from coming off. Once I figured that it it popped right off
I wish I knew about this thing before I started this project
A couple pennies or a nickle also do the same thing for next time.
can you explain where the "pennies and nickle" go please?
is it like between the chain and front sprocket?
so put the bike in gear - throw some coins between the chain/sprocket and that will lock it up so you can loosen/tighten bolts?
You have the concept down, but similar to that Motion Pro tool above, you place a penny, usually takes 2 stacked, in-between the primary drive gear (behind inner clutch cover). This stops the motor from turning as you're turning the flywheel nut. Pennies are copper plated zinc, so softer than the gears.
Heck yeah Chevy! Stoked you got it off. So what is the problem back there and why will the cam chain not stay on? And yes a penny or a shop rag will suffice if you don't have the gear jammer tool. When you try to spin the flywheel nut off it will start to turn the crank over. So essential the gear jammer goes in on the clutch side to prevent the crank from turning over so you can torque gears down or in your case, remove the stator nut.
Dear hubbardmx50
I never did find the "root" problem of camshaft chain displacement behind the magneto.
During the process of removing the crankshaft nut and magneto - I didn't do a very good job at it initially because of my lack of proper tools and experience with the Tusk removal tool and cap - so that resulted in me damaging the cam chain retainer and fracturing the chain tensioner - both of which i am replacing (about $40). So my bad - but if i had to do it again now i can do it easily and perfectly. So lesson learned.
Now i am waiting for those 2 parts to show up. Then i will install new chain, new chain retainer, new tensioner. Before installing magneto and nut - i will first make sure the cam chain and camshafts can be reinstalled, then rotate the crank a few times and check valve clearances one last time. When all good - I can reinstall the magneto and nut and proceed with the remaining reassembly.
Post a reply to: RMZ250 Rotor Flywheel Magneto Nut Removal - HELP - See Photo