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I’ve ran motul for 20+ years. If it looks the same way it went in, they didn’t put enough time on it.
This. I ran 800 at 100:1 for years, many different bikes. (Yes. I hear your gasps. The 'What's the best oil ratio?' fight starts in 5..4..3..2..1). Great stuff. Bikes ran great. No seizures or breakdowns. Ever.
Rotella
I always ran motul 800 in my 125 ,now because I still have some around,now my weed wacker exhaust makes me smile.
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Switching from BelRay. It seems Motul offers more performance and quality all around. The smoother shifting is a big factor for me and longevity I'm seeing from these other guys is amazing.
Wow! Thanks for the input.
Awesome!
I would love to see this information. Still run old 2 strokes on occasion.....
I think you’re on to something here…
2nd sentence....Correct. This would mostly apply to new oil put into an old neglected dirty engine. The detergent package should help clean and suspend to be able to be flushed out. Newer maintained engines sometimes see minimal change. An extreme heat event can darken oilimmediately.
1st question, most ratings are paid for and cost money. Probably the most well known in last 10 years would be on regular engine oil with the Dexos Gen 1,2,3, that supersedes the old GM specs. Each brand is issued a license to run that. Not having That does NOT necessarily mean an oil won't meet or pass that spec or testing standard.
Some American oils don't show ACEA ratings for that reason.
With a loose enough engine you could probably get it to survive at 150:1 because we have done it.
My question is, what benefit do you think you are getting other than the perceived initial savings of a few pennies on oil cost?
I'll tell you why because a few years ago they cut their whole amateur program last minute with no notice to anyone. I had been a lifelong customer and the way they treated us was crappy. I'll never touch another Lucas product. We went Amsoil and will stick with it. American made and top quality.
You wont get any better performance or quality going to Motul from Bel ray or Maxima or any other top brand oil but as long as you believe it that's all that counts
I would recommend either our 300V (green) or our 7100 (red) Synthetic product line for your bike. Depending on what brand of bike you have, our 7100 10W40 is a flagship product for us that does really well in both the Dirt and Road segments. If you're on an Austrian bike, then up viscosity to a 15W50 or 10W50 as that is what KTM, Husky, and Gas Gas call for typically. I am attaching a graphic to show you the different tiers of products we have and how they differentiate from one another.
If you want, shoot me a PM with your info.
Hit the nail on the head with this one - hearing people run that sort of mixture still makes my head spin. Keep it around 40:1 or the golden number of 32:1 is an ideal ratio.
AGREED
I want to provide this to all of you guys as resourceful information - that's all I am here for. Not intending on turning this into another oil comparison thread. There are a lot of great oil companies out there, here are just a few highlights on the MOTUL brand specifically.
Our ESTER Core patented technology allows the oil to adhere to cylinder walls even when the engine is cold, preventing the wear and tear on a motor that is caused by a cold engine starts (metal-to-metal friction). Think of it as providing a thin layer of oil film on your motor components (piston, rod, cylinder, cams, gears, etc...) that serve as a magnet - sticking to these phosphorus metals. Once again, no metal-to-metal friction when starting your bike.
Now to answer your question, as to why MOTUL does not break down as quickly or lose consistency and or color. Heat and age, serve as the main contributors to the degradation of any oil. Oils operating at extremely high temperatures can begin to crack thermally. The high temperatures can sheer/crack the oil molecules into smaller molecules, which causes a decrease in viscosity. It can break down chemically from contamination by combustion byproducts and moisture accumulation. Now if you have a product that can withstand these conditions because of the formulation, overall quality selection of base oils, and a superior additives package, it ultimately combats all of those things. It doesn't stop it, every oil breaks down eventually, but you will see that ours is able to withstand heat, contamination, and moisture for a lengthier period. Hence why it is nearly the same color when you drain it as when you put it in.
She explains it here at the 1:15 mark
The chart below shows an oil analysis we ran at one of the most enduring races on earth - the ROLEX 24HR in Daytona. Yes this is a car race, but same rule applies to two wheels. This test was run on a PORSCHE GT3 that raced Rolex 24, you will see that after 24 Hrs of racing, the engine oil did not present any problems or concerns.
stress:
Hope that answers your question man, shoot me a PM if you want to try any of the products out.
Merry Christmas y'all
32:1 is leaner then 50:1 when it comes to air/ fuel ratios. Jetted the same a bike with 50:1 mix will load up faster then same bike at 32:1.
Pit Row
Correct! You’re gonna screw up a lot of ppl’s thoughts though, lol!
More oil = less fuel = more lean
I understand but let me explain how little difference it actually makes on a carbed engine.
We took an oil injection rig on straight fuel and the EGTs were at 1,150 and 1152*F after a 30 second WFO pull. Which indicates Kinda rich on jetting and very safe.
We then dropped 40:1 in (recommended during break in for 1 tank or 10 gallons) with a 30 Wt Premix oil.
You would think you would be considerably leaner or even burn holes in the pistons. EGTs average of 3 pulls were 1,155 and 1157.
What the conclusion was is that at 3 2 ounces of oil, the dilution was so great that it wasn't a real concern.
Otherwise there would be 100s of thousands of burned down engines. We saw no change in water temp.
EFI same thing and was even less of a difference from straight gas to 40:1 because that works on fuel spray pressure, not engine vacuum.
A change from say 32:1 to 50:1 or vice versa, not sure you could even measure that. Maybe by reading piston wash over a good amount of time. But on EGTs it would be almost nothing.
Interesting. How many miles was that?
Do you happen to have a more informative analysis with New and UOA numbers to compare, similar to how a Blackstone report reads with the viscosities hot and cold, TBN's etc?
Not mine but like this.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/media/img/projectcars/04_M3-Oil_Analy…
Amsoil is not top quality. Good at marketing but not great oil. Any Motul or Motorex oil will blow away any Amsoil. I love supporting American made companies but when it comes to oil i've learned that you stay away from American made if you want top quality products
Thanks a lot for the insight!
Best wishes from Germany and Merry Christmas!
Why 32:1 and not 30:1 ? Because you’re in the USA, that’s why, not because there’s anything magical about 32:1. It’s because we use the imperial measuring system and a pint bottle of oil into 4 gallons of gas equals 32:1. Also why 40:1 is popular. A pint bottle of oil into 5 gallons of gas is 40:1. Just an interesting aside.
Can you explain what your basing your opinion on? Not trying to challenge you, I’m genuinely interested. I’ve had really good results with the Dirtbike specific Amsoil 4 stroke oil over the last 3 years. It performs much better than everyone’s favorite, Rotella, in the testing I did. It also performs well in independent tests I’ve seen like Project Farm etc.. I’m not claiming it’s way better than other brands necessarily, but I don’t think it is giving up anything either. Factor in the price I get it for and I run short change intervals for piece of mind, and it’s a winner to me. I’m Always looking for other data points though, so what are you running and why?
I think the majority of oils for sale her are American made. They are just produced to their spec by an oil supplier because its too expensive to ship 55 gallon drums across the ocean. Kind of how soft drinks are just produced at local bottlers rather than being shipped all over the country.
Amsoil base stock at one time was Mobil1.
There are a few quality American brands mentioned in this thread.
Take John Klotz. First to develop 2 stroke synthetic in the early 1960s.
Born and bred American brand. Sponsored Indycars to the winners circle, moto and SX. Sizzler Noleen Yamahas. Jet Ski racers. Offshore, F1 Champ and Outboard Drag boats.
Klotz is a go to brand. We tested our OEM blends against many of their products when we were blending oils.
Yeah well I completely disagree. I've seen it first hand in my own vehicles and bikes after switching over and using a ton of other different ones over the years also. It has made a believer out of me in a short time, enough that I started being a dealer after seeing the results. It absolutely does not get blown away by Motorex and I have 2 customers that the husband runs Amsoil and the wife ran Motul. He runs his harder than she does and guess what? Her bike blew up and his is still going strong. Both were rebuilt at the same time. Now she is running Amsoil also. Proof is in the pudding. I don't try and force it on anyone but it's good stuff and a company that is very focused on putting quality stuff out there.
Oil is oil. You over pay for yours.
I was going to fry eggs this morning but out of Rotella.
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