Can you ride without fork rebound damping rod? 2021 Kx450

Kyle978
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Dirt, NM, USA
Edited Date/Time 2/28/2021 6:05am
Long story short, I’m an idiot. I was changing my fork springs, and when I was putting the rebound adjuster back on, I didn’t ensure the D shaped rod was seated properly on the top before I tightened it down.

I need to order a new rod, but they are tough to come by and I want to ride this weekend.

Any chance I could adjust the rebound as desired, and reassemble the forks without the rod until the new one shows? To me, the rod is floating in there to simply adjust the rebound via the clickers. Am I correct in this thinking?

Thank you in advance!
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2/27/2021 8:26am
I think your rebound would be all the way out (no dampening) without the rod
1
2/27/2021 8:31am
I think you can but it will be pretty scary.
I wouldn't hit jumps... but i'd ride for sure😉
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brocster
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2/27/2021 8:32am
I think your rebound would be all the way out (no dampening) without the rod
Correct. There is a reason it is in there in the first place, but I’ll let the guru’s speak to it’s intended purpose.

How bad is it damaged? They are typically made of aluminum and should be somewhat salvageable???
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rider892
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2/27/2021 8:38am

6

The Shop

2/27/2021 8:44am
I wouldn’t recommend it, but if I was to ride without the dampening rod, I would go in quite a bit on the other rebound adjuster to offset the light dampening in the other fork.
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TeamGreen
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2/27/2021 8:47am
I’m thinking I wouldn’t do it
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Kyle978
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2/27/2021 8:56am
I can adjust the rebound to my desired clicker range with the damaged rod as it is only damaged on one end. I would then pull the rod out and put the adjuster on, assemble the forks and go ride.

I’m thinking it would be okay as it doesn’t affect the structural integrity of the fork, I believe?

Thanks for the replies!
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2/27/2021 9:02am
The rod moves up and down when adjusting the clickers. When you pull the rod out you will lose the adjustment you just made and your clicker setting would be all the way out
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Kyle978
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2/27/2021 9:14am
The rod moves up and down when adjusting the clickers. When you pull the rod out you will lose the adjustment you just made and your...
The rod moves up and down when adjusting the clickers. When you pull the rod out you will lose the adjustment you just made and your clicker setting would be all the way out
Got it, that makes sense.

So structurally it would be fine, but the adjustment would be fucked?

So if I went all the way in on one side, and all the way out on the other, it would essentially be in the middle? Lol

I never thought I would get this hillbilly with it. I was actually going to go on a trail ride with my boss tomorrow so this might be okay?
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2/27/2021 9:25am
All I will say is I’ve had the delta shims rotate on my piston, which led to basically zero rebound dampening on one fork. I felt my suspension getting shitty and assumed it was just an off day like I normally have. It felt like garbage and wasn’t predictable, but nothing bad came from it. I know how it is to want to ride, so I will say I don’t see any internal fork damage happening, but you will definitely notice the difference
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Kyle978
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2/27/2021 11:39am
All I will say is I’ve had the delta shims rotate on my piston, which led to basically zero rebound dampening on one fork. I felt...
All I will say is I’ve had the delta shims rotate on my piston, which led to basically zero rebound dampening on one fork. I felt my suspension getting shitty and assumed it was just an off day like I normally have. It felt like garbage and wasn’t predictable, but nothing bad came from it. I know how it is to want to ride, so I will say I don’t see any internal fork damage happening, but you will definitely notice the difference
Got it, I think I’ll use better judgement and wait for the rod to show up.

Thanks for your time.
bvm111
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2/27/2021 11:57am Edited Date/Time 2/27/2021 11:59am
yeah... i mean you could ride it ... you could, but you will have non consistent damping in the fork, you could try to compensate with the other side, but that being said ... i wouldn’t risk it.

try RMATV OEM parts as they stock a large amount of OEM parts, or try SDI (suspension direct) ... call Enzo or any suspension shop near where you live as they might be able to source one for you quicker than RMATV.
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Jbulz
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2/27/2021 12:36pm Edited Date/Time 2/27/2021 12:39pm
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the needle. The clicker does not push the rod up and down. If you were to set the rebound needle and then assemble the fork without the rod the fork would work fine, you just wouldn't be able to adjust it on the fly.

Fork will work as normal with no damping imbalance.

Personally, I'd wait but it won't hurt anything if you did want to ride.
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Kyle978
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2/27/2021 1:00pm
Jbulz wrote:
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the...
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the needle. The clicker does not push the rod up and down. If you were to set the rebound needle and then assemble the fork without the rod the fork would work fine, you just wouldn't be able to adjust it on the fly.

Fork will work as normal with no damping imbalance.

Personally, I'd wait but it won't hurt anything if you did want to ride.
Man, I appreciate you chiming in. These were my exact thoughts, I was surprised to hear otherwise.

I am still going to wait, I’m borrowing a bike to ride tomorrow. I just hate the idea of borrowing a bike when I have a new one sitting in the garage.

Thanks for your input 🍻
2
hubbardmx50
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2/27/2021 1:51pm Edited Date/Time 2/27/2021 5:25pm
What’s wrong with your current rod? You didn’t line up the D shape and it bent it or what? Is it for sure too mangled to use for a day of riding? I would try to install it.
LKHill
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2/27/2021 2:02pm
Technically you could cut out the damaged part of the rod and find a suitable rod/spacer to make up the rod length you cut out and it would be fine.
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Rider 5280
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Denver Metro, CO, USA
2/27/2021 3:27pm Edited Date/Time 2/27/2021 3:33pm
That rod is just like a long screwdriver for adjustment ... don't need it unless you're making adjustments.

Ride away I say ... and enjoy the weight savings!
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2/27/2021 5:15pm
Jbulz wrote:
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the...
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the needle. The clicker does not push the rod up and down. If you were to set the rebound needle and then assemble the fork without the rod the fork would work fine, you just wouldn't be able to adjust it on the fly.

Fork will work as normal with no damping imbalance.

Personally, I'd wait but it won't hurt anything if you did want to ride.
I’m mostly familiar with wp forks, where that isn’t the case.

Either way, I’m glad you chimed in
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Kyle978
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2/27/2021 5:26pm
What’s wrong with your current rod? You didn’t line up the D shape and it bent it or what? Is it for sure too mangled to...
What’s wrong with your current rod? You didn’t line up the D shape and it bent it or what? Is it for sure too mangled to use for a day of riding? I would try to install it.
I never thought I’d show my rod on the internet, but here it goes...

I fucked up. I didn’t ensure the rod was seated on the top correctly before I tightened the adjuster.
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2
TeamGreen
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2/27/2021 6:16pm
What’s wrong with your current rod? You didn’t line up the D shape and it bent it or what? Is it for sure too mangled to...
What’s wrong with your current rod? You didn’t line up the D shape and it bent it or what? Is it for sure too mangled to use for a day of riding? I would try to install it.
Kyle978 wrote:
I never thought I’d show my rod on the internet, but here it goes... [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2021/02/27/480719/s1200_BDC2E973_19A8_4EC0_9213_6E946BFDED2F.jpg[/img] I fucked up. I didn’t ensure the rod was seated on...
I never thought I’d show my rod on the internet, but here it goes...

I fucked up. I didn’t ensure the rod was seated on the top correctly before I tightened the adjuster.
This may be a stupid question; but, can’t that be repaired...easily?
Kyle978
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Dirt, NM, USA
2/27/2021 6:23pm
TeamGreen wrote:
This may be a stupid question; but, can’t that be repaired...easily?
Possibly? I’m not sure how you’d get it back to that perfect D-shape, but maybe someone has experience or ideas and can chime in.

I tend to err on the side of caution with suspension components, they seem very fragile and need to operate perfectly. But I’m also fairly inexperienced with the internals, I’ve always had this stuff done by the pros.
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1
brocster
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2/27/2021 7:16pm
Aluminum doesn’t have memory and it has been stretched, looking at your picture. However, set your clicker before you install the rod and you’ll be fine and as someone else mentioned, you won’t be able to adjust it.

Pretty sure I could re shape it for you but wouldn’t be sure of the integrity and how long it would last being adjust as the metal has been compromised.
2
walent215
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Ridgecrest, CA, USA
2/27/2021 7:41pm
Just went thru this with a customers bike
Was deformed similar to yours
I was able to use pliers to get it back in good enough shape to install it and be usable
Sounds sketchy but it was fine actually
1
mxshot
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Fountain Valley, CA, USA
2/27/2021 10:59pm
the "D" shape of the adjuster rod is the female part that engages the male "D" shape of the needle piece which is threaded and moves in and out of a seat inside the "rod end" of the cartridge rod that holds the rebound piston as it is rotated. The other end of the adjuster rod engages the "D" shaped rod piece that comes out of the rebound adjuster bolt. This end of the adjuster rod is rotated by the screw in the bolt, and is held in position by the detent. If you set the rebound adjustment, then remove the adjuster rod, the needle piece in the rod end can back out and make the adjustment setting "less rebound" as oil flows thru the needle and seat. This is not really dangerous, but not recommended.
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FalseNeutral
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Ballground, GA, USA
2/28/2021 4:32am
Who the hell needs rebound damping anyways? Piss on rebound, just set it and forget for a few years like any good rider would do.
1
BobPA
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USA
2/28/2021 6:04am
Jbulz wrote:
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the...
Bad advice in this thread. The needle is threaded into the midvalve and the clicker does nothing more than spin the d-shaped rod to spin the needle. The clicker does not push the rod up and down. If you were to set the rebound needle and then assemble the fork without the rod the fork would work fine, you just wouldn't be able to adjust it on the fly.

Fork will work as normal with no damping imbalance.

Personally, I'd wait but it won't hurt anything if you did want to ride.
Thank God someone chimed in who has actually had the forks apart.

Set it to your original settings and moto away...just don't expect to make any adjustments.
1
FWYT
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San Diego, CA, USA
2/28/2021 8:19am
I'd just set the rebound where I need, assemble the fork without the rod, and go ride.
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