2016 HRC Team Honda CRF450RW

matt.3150
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6/3/2020 6:46pm Edited Date/Time 6/3/2020 6:52pm
mxav8r wrote:
While I wait for my parts to arrive, so I can do some actual "building", I figure I'll post more HRC awesomeness. HRC billet steering damper...
While I wait for my parts to arrive, so I can do some actual "building", I figure I'll post more HRC awesomeness.

HRC billet steering damper. 24mm piston size. Haven’t taken it apart yet to see what the changes are from OEM. Obviously it's designed for easier rebuilding than the OEM.




I haven’t seen the billet steering damper without the additional adjuster. Hey I lost your number text me


3
matt.3150
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6/3/2020 6:55pm
I would be surprised if the linkage were cast.. a works linkage would be machined from billet for maximum strength. The heavy black "soot" after de-anodizing...
I would be surprised if the linkage were cast.. a works linkage would be machined from billet for maximum strength. The heavy black "soot" after de-anodizing means that it is 7075 aluminum which HRC uses for most parts that need strength.. it the zinc and copper in the metal that turns black. You should have gotten the "deoxider/ anti-smut" from Caswell (usually Ferric acid), which would have cleaned the black out of every nook and cranny in about 15-30 seconds in the solution.

My HRC linkage was NOS and when I wiped it with an aluminum cleaning solution, it quickly got a bit too shiny although I didn't really polish it. Too shiny and it is hard to see the cool machine marks in the metal.. I left as is but I try to avoid making the parts too shiny. I find I get the nicest finish on older parts by first hitting with wd40 and a 3m pad, then polishing it real shiny, then dulling it back down again with a 2nd application of the 3M pad. There is a big difference in the quality of the finish with these extra steps.. it makes the metal look freshly machined rather than "cleaned up" and bright enough without being too shiny.

Looks good as you have it right now. You don't want to polish out the machine marks, right?
No the linkage was 100% machines out of 7075, it just got those black dots overtime as the linkages aged!!!!!
No it’s not forged or cast!
2
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/3/2020 7:10pm
Those steering dampers with the extra adjusters looks so cool! Love the dark Kashima, too.
3
6/4/2020 2:56pm
Those steering dampers with the extra adjusters looks so cool! Love the dark Kashima, too.
I'm with you! So nice and trick! Never knew these were even a thing!

They must be really rare and hard as hell to come by!?
1

The Shop

mxav8r
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6/10/2020 12:56pm
I got my HRC wheels back from Dubya USA this week. I sent in my hubs, spokes, and rims to get laced and trued. Dubya also made and installed a custom front bearing tube that would accept my 25mm ID wheel bearings (which they also installed) and helped source the correct size rear wheel spacers. The rear HRC hub is wider than stock and the wheel spacers needed are 20mm wide vs 23mm for stock. Cole Anderson at Dubya was extremely helpful and never once seemed bothered by my many questions. Overall, I was totally impressed by the service provided by Dubya. I can see why they are so well regarded in the industry.

After all the hard work Dubya put in to make and source the correct parts for my wheels, the correct HRC bearing tube and rear wheel spacers arrived in the mail. I originally thought them lost... So I'm going to use the HRC rear wheel spacers and since the front hub is already assembled, use the Dubya front bearing tube.







Here is a picture of the HRC style bearing tubes. 25mm ID and 20mm ID. Unlike OEM pieces, these tubes are machined aluminum and have tangs on one end to ease quick wheel changes.





I also installed the HRC starting device. Decided to use 2020 CRF fork guards. I just had to do a little trimming of the Throttle Jockey graphics.



8
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/10/2020 1:32pm
That is great that Dubaya fixed you up. The front axle on my older style HRC hub was same size as OEM, but the distance spacer was indeed a machined piece different from OEM. If HRC had different sized front distance spacers, it seems they may have provided options to swap in different ID bearings and diameter axles to tune the feel of the front end. I have heard of some riders swapping the HRC titanium front axle back to steel when using OEM diameter because of too much flex with oem diameter titanium.
2
jerbert
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6/10/2020 2:18pm
incredible work of this construction, wishing to see it finished. Where did you get the metal reinforcements?
1
mxav8r
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6/10/2020 4:19pm
jerbert wrote:
incredible work of this construction, wishing to see it finished. Where did you get the metal reinforcements? [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/06/10/431934/s1200_s600_IMG_8728.jpg[/img]
incredible work of this construction, wishing to see it finished. Where did you get the metal reinforcements?
Thank you very much! I am really enjoying the process and meeting fellow enthusiasts along the way.

The fork guard supports are made from four different sources:
- metal tabs/reinforcement are from Works Connection
- Blue nuts from oppracing.com
- Red fork guard bolts are HRC. A good source of perfect replica's is Phil Denton Engineering.
- Bolts for the blue nuts are from a local hardware store.
4
mxav8r
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6/11/2020 8:07pm
On the rear wheel I'm using the OEM brake disc and Renthal sprocket. The titanium hardware is from Racetech Titanium and the blue aluminum sprocket nuts are from OPPracing. The HRC rear wheel spacers are a unique color. I would say they are a yellowish/gold color. I believe HRC Honda MXGP team used this color around the 2018/2019 time period. Not sure if I'm going to keep that color or strip the anodizing and do something else.
The front wheel has a Motostuff 260mm brake rotor and HRC titanium brake rotor bolts. The bolts are tiny! The head height has to be only a couple of millimeters. I'll try to get some pictures posted compared to the OEM bolts.



I installed new linkage bearings and seals and mounted it to the bike. Except for one bolt which I'm still waiting to arrive in the mail. Every bolt and nut on this bike is either HRC/Racetech/OPPracing titanium or aluminum or new OEM.


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Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/11/2020 8:14pm
The finish on the linkage came out nice.
1
mxav8r
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6/12/2020 6:01am
The finish on the linkage came out nice.
I took your advice and did a little polish work on the pull rods/arm. I polished it to a brighter finish than I wanted and then buffed with 3M pad and WD40 and it came out perfect. Thanks for the advice Mike!
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/12/2020 7:07am
The finish on the linkage came out nice.
mxav8r wrote:
I took your advice and did a little polish work on the pull rods/arm. I polished it to a brighter finish than I wanted and then...
I took your advice and did a little polish work on the pull rods/arm. I polished it to a brighter finish than I wanted and then buffed with 3M pad and WD40 and it came out perfect. Thanks for the advice Mike!
Great.. it looks nice and bright and new, but not shiny. Another thing that many guys do not know is that both clear and color anodized parts can be polished the same way as the raw aluminum, with the exception that you have to be very careful with a light polish since the anodize layer is very thin. So if you have an anodized part, you don't need to strip it if the anodize layer isn't worn through. A cloudy, lightly scratched anodized finish can be made to look nice and shiny again with aluminum polish.
2
mxav8r
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6/12/2020 8:32am
Great.. it looks nice and bright and new, but not shiny. Another thing that many guys do not know is that both clear and color anodized...
Great.. it looks nice and bright and new, but not shiny. Another thing that many guys do not know is that both clear and color anodized parts can be polished the same way as the raw aluminum, with the exception that you have to be very careful with a light polish since the anodize layer is very thin. So if you have an anodized part, you don't need to strip it if the anodize layer isn't worn through. A cloudy, lightly scratched anodized finish can be made to look nice and shiny again with aluminum polish.
I did not know that, great info!
1
Looby321
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6/12/2020 6:10pm
mxav8r wrote:
On the rear wheel I'm using the OEM brake disc and Renthal sprocket. The titanium hardware is from Racetech Titanium and the blue aluminum sprocket nuts...
On the rear wheel I'm using the OEM brake disc and Renthal sprocket. The titanium hardware is from Racetech Titanium and the blue aluminum sprocket nuts are from OPPracing. The HRC rear wheel spacers are a unique color. I would say they are a yellowish/gold color. I believe HRC Honda MXGP team used this color around the 2018/2019 time period. Not sure if I'm going to keep that color or strip the anodizing and do something else.
The front wheel has a Motostuff 260mm brake rotor and HRC titanium brake rotor bolts. The bolts are tiny! The head height has to be only a couple of millimeters. I'll try to get some pictures posted compared to the OEM bolts.



I installed new linkage bearings and seals and mounted it to the bike. Except for one bolt which I'm still waiting to arrive in the mail. Every bolt and nut on this bike is either HRC/Racetech/OPPracing titanium or aluminum or new OEM.


What about the local hardware store bolts for the fork guard reinforcement?! I had to throw that in there to bust your balls lol. Looking slick man.
1
mxav8r
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6/12/2020 7:32pm
Looby321 wrote:
What about the local hardware store bolts for the fork guard reinforcement?! I had to throw that in there to bust your balls lol. Looking slick...
What about the local hardware store bolts for the fork guard reinforcement?! I had to throw that in there to bust your balls lol. Looking slick man.
😂I'm busted!
mxav8r
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6/14/2020 3:49pm
Sometimes it's the little things that make a build just thaaat much nicer. For me its a little brass part. Moose Racing fuel tank vent. Just love how this part looks with the rest of the "gold" colored parts on the bike (Kashima fork caps, DID chain, and rear wheel spacers.) I dont know...just thought it's cool 😎






8
BToz
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6/14/2020 8:10pm
Ok daaaaaang! Very nice!!
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smv ryder
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6/14/2020 9:39pm
Holy gosh darn guacamole!!! She is a beaut Clark.. Unbelievable epic 💩 shit dude
1
mxav8r
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6/18/2020 4:33pm
Well she's almost done. Since last update I've mounted the tires (MX33). Still need to install chain which will require removing about three link I believe. I also installed the Cycra skidplate. Will go into more detail about the plate and how I plan to make it look like the factory Honda plate, later. Besides that a couple more little details need to be taken care of... But I just wanted share a picture of how she looks right now (and yes... I'm building this in a bedroom. The spare room. No way am I going to sweat in a garage!😂).


20
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/18/2020 6:54pm
Just one picture? That is a tease! She looks great. Is there a particular rider's bike you have been referencing for the build? I see you got your HRC mat.. mine has a blackish-blue tint also, I noticed.

As I look at all the great eye candy and detail across the bike, there is only one thing that catches my eye that seems slightly out of place although it still looks great! ..and that is the shock spring.. whenever you look at the shock springs on the works Honda's, you notice the significant gap between the spring coils compared to a non-works steel spring. Not sure if they are using paint titanium or another alloy, but I always saw the coil spacing as a statement that says "works".

Will you also do some safety wiring details?

Cant wait to see more pics of the beauty.

mike
1
mxav8r
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6/19/2020 3:14am
Just one picture? That is a tease! She looks great. Is there a particular rider's bike you have been referencing for the build? I see you...
Just one picture? That is a tease! She looks great. Is there a particular rider's bike you have been referencing for the build? I see you got your HRC mat.. mine has a blackish-blue tint also, I noticed.

As I look at all the great eye candy and detail across the bike, there is only one thing that catches my eye that seems slightly out of place although it still looks great! ..and that is the shock spring.. whenever you look at the shock springs on the works Honda's, you notice the significant gap between the spring coils compared to a non-works steel spring. Not sure if they are using paint titanium or another alloy, but I always saw the coil spacing as a statement that says "works".

Will you also do some safety wiring details?

Cant wait to see more pics of the beauty.

mike
Thanks Mike! Appreciate the compliments. Your build thread is the Gold Standard!

There is no one rider or team that I am trying to replicate. I just want to build my "Dream Machine". I always found the 2015/2016 HRC MXGP and Team Honda USA bikes to be the best looking CRF bikes. So I am obviously using them as a reference.

The HRC mat is really nice! Really great size for the bikes.

As to the shock spring, I agree... Currently the shock spring is just a standard OEM style spring. But there is a reason I haven't changed it out. I'm hopeful that a more "suitable" shock for this build will be coming 😉

And yes, I plan on doing some safety wire work, but besides the typical grip wire, I don't know really how to do it.

More pictures to come! I promise!
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/19/2020 4:29am
Ah.. looking for a full on works shock.. was a very expensive proposition in my case.. the most expensive part by far on my build.

The safety wiring is quite easy and actually fun and fast.. you start looking for things to safety wire. I just got the special tool/ plyers, some wire and watched a few youtube videos to pick up a few basic tricks and I was rolling.

Clark; are you a commercial jet pilot? I saw your instagram post.
1
mxb2
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6/19/2020 5:40am
Looks great.
1
mxav8r
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6/20/2020 3:23pm
Ah.. looking for a full on works shock.. was a very expensive proposition in my case.. the most expensive part by far on my build. The...
Ah.. looking for a full on works shock.. was a very expensive proposition in my case.. the most expensive part by far on my build.

The safety wiring is quite easy and actually fun and fast.. you start looking for things to safety wire. I just got the special tool/ plyers, some wire and watched a few youtube videos to pick up a few basic tricks and I was rolling.

Clark; are you a commercial jet pilot? I saw your instagram post.
I'll get the special tool/pliers and watch some videos and give it a shot!
Yes, I am a pilot for a Major US airline and my first name is actually Mike. My friend was just referencing a movie line on instagram 😁
mxav8r
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6/20/2020 4:48pm Edited Date/Time 6/20/2020 7:10pm
I thought I would share some details on my HRC hydraulic clutch and the HRC setup in general through the years. Along with my plans to get my clutch operational. And as always if you have additional knowledge or corrections to what I write, please share! Thank you.

The HRC hydro clutch setup has evolved through out the years, no surprise. Also the way the teams implemented the clutch setup has gone through changes. Most of those changes of setup seem to be based on MXGP vs AMA (works machines vs modified production) regulations.

The first HRC setup (MXGP and AMA) used modified production cases to mount the slave cylinder and provide a path for the interaction of the slave piston and clutch lifter rod. The rod in all cases I believe is also a works part (the length must be longer than stock to reach the slave piston). The billet aluminum slave unit has a 24mm titanium piston. In this first iteration of the hydraulic setup, the slave piston mount was a machined part, welded to the production case. This would be the what the AMA Team Honda would use until the 2017 Crf450r model.

2013 HRC Honda MXGP


Team Honda AMA


Modified production case for the 24mm piston hydraulic clutch


In the above photo you can clearly see the case has the original manual clutch actuator area machined away. Then welded and slave piston mount installed. Why go through the trouble of machining away the manual clutch mounting area? Why not just machine a hole for the clutch lifter rod and plug in the slave piston mount? Well I believe it was to provide the necessary clearance for the slave units banjo nut. More on this later...

HRC 24mm Ti piston clutch slave unit.


The next example of the HRC hydraulic clutch was only used by the Honda MXGP teams until the 2017 Crf450r. The cases were no longer modified. The case itself was actually made to accept the slave cylinder piston mount and the manual clutch actuator area was not part of the case casting. Additionally the slave unit piston grew to a size of 27mm. The mount for the slave cylinder piston was now a machined part integrated with the case chain guard!

HRC works case for the 27mm piston clutch


HRC 27mm piston slave unit and machined one piece case saver/slave cylinder








The final style HRC hydraulic clutch used 2017-present


Looks like the 2017-present CRF's cases no longer need the manual clutch actuator machined away to provide the necessary clearance for the banjo nut. The clutch slave cylinder piston mount/case saver appears to be still a one part.

Next post I'll explain my plan for my bike and show some more pictures... TBC

4
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/20/2020 6:20pm
Ah.. looking for a full on works shock.. was a very expensive proposition in my case.. the most expensive part by far on my build. The...
Ah.. looking for a full on works shock.. was a very expensive proposition in my case.. the most expensive part by far on my build.

The safety wiring is quite easy and actually fun and fast.. you start looking for things to safety wire. I just got the special tool/ plyers, some wire and watched a few youtube videos to pick up a few basic tricks and I was rolling.

Clark; are you a commercial jet pilot? I saw your instagram post.
mxav8r wrote:
I'll get the special tool/pliers and watch some videos and give it a shot! Yes, I am a pilot for a Major US airline and my...
I'll get the special tool/pliers and watch some videos and give it a shot!
Yes, I am a pilot for a Major US airline and my first name is actually Mike. My friend was just referencing a movie line on instagram 😁
Sorry Mike Smile .. yes I saw that you friend called you "Clark" Smile . I suppose the Covid19 shutdown is giving you more down time to work on the bike?
1
Tokyo_Tiddler
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6/20/2020 6:34pm
Nice write up on the hydro clutch, Mike. I love reading this stuff.

mike
1
mxav8r
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6/21/2020 11:13am
Sorry Mike :).. yes I saw that you friend called you "Clark" :). I suppose the Covid19 shutdown is giving you more down time to work...
Sorry Mike Smile .. yes I saw that you friend called you "Clark" Smile . I suppose the Covid19 shutdown is giving you more down time to work on the bike?
No problem Mike!
Yeah the airline industry is struggling! But things could be worse for me... I will still have a job when the CARES Act expires. So i'm very grateful and thankful 🙏🏻
mxav8r
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6/21/2020 12:45pm
Back to the HRC hydraulic clutch...

24mm (missing a rubber seal) and 27mm slave units side by side



Here is a picture showing the reason the cases have to be machined down to fit the slave cylinder. Just not enough room for the titanium banjo nut. The 2017-2020 HRC 450's don't have this issue.


Clutch hydraulic line with attachment point for pressure sensor used for data collection. And HRC front sprocket guard.


The sprocket guard was first used on the 2017 HRC Honda's but fits my 2016. Just like everything HRC, it's beautifully made. Machined from aluminum and very light.


HRC billet aluminum clutch lever with titanium pump pivot/knuckle (don't know the correct technical name). The 13.6 is a measurement used to determine clutch feel/adjustment. HRC riders had their choice on what "feel" they would like.






HRC clutch master cylinder. No branding but I believe it's made by Nissin and no casting lines. Hard to tell by the picture but it just looks "works" compared to the branded works Nissin brake cylinder.



Factory Nissin brake master cylinder

11
atrdrvr7
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Houston, TX, USA
6/22/2020 8:25am
Sorry Mike :).. yes I saw that you friend called you "Clark" :). I suppose the Covid19 shutdown is giving you more down time to work...
Sorry Mike Smile .. yes I saw that you friend called you "Clark" Smile . I suppose the Covid19 shutdown is giving you more down time to work on the bike?
mxav8r wrote:
No problem Mike! Yeah the airline industry is struggling! But things could be worse for me... I will still have a job when the CARES Act...
No problem Mike!
Yeah the airline industry is struggling! But things could be worse for me... I will still have a job when the CARES Act expires. So i'm very grateful and thankful 🙏🏻
Beautiful build. Same boat for me as a far as the cares act. Every 10 years brings on the suck in our industry. Its the one thing I have been able to count on.
3

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