2016 HRC Team Honda CRF450RW

mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/14/2020 6:54pm


Trying to sort out an issue with my HRC spec clamps made by Martin Racing. The steering stem hole in the bottom clamp is supposed to accept the OEM stem. But the stem is to loose and spins inside the clamp. Not sure if its a stem issue or if the clamp is out of spec. Pretty sure it's clamp issue. Most likely going to need a custom stem made. Oh well the joys of piecing together a "works" bike!
Overall the build hasn't really progressed as of late. Waiting on some OEM parts still...
6
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/15/2020 2:22pm Edited Date/Time 5/15/2020 2:26pm
While I wait for my parts to arrive, so I can do some actual "building", I figure I'll post more HRC awesomeness.

HRC billet steering damper. 24mm piston size. Haven’t taken it apart yet to see what the changes are from OEM. Obviously it's designed for easier rebuilding than the OEM.




13
jerbert
Posts
65
Joined
8/22/2019
Location
ES
5/15/2020 3:35pm
Much money and special parts in this build, awesome!!
1
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
5/15/2020 10:40pm Edited Date/Time 5/15/2020 10:42pm
Very nice! Now that my RC250M build is about finished, your build may inspire me to go back and do some more on my CR450 which already has quite a few HRC parts on it.

I love the CNC billet housing on the steering damper.

The CRT CF parts quality is decent and quick to ship parts. CRM is better but almost impossible to reach and get parts unless you are an MXGP team. The actual HRC carbon fiber tanks were made by a big auto design company in the Czech Republic. It was difficult but I tracked them down, and they had an HRC tank on the self, but they made my tank custom to my order as I wanted a standard filler cap to help keep dirt out and they did absolutely beautiful work and they did it in a month.

What I have found is that many of these HRC parts are made by automobile design companies that make special parts for the big auto and motorcycle companies including concept car parts. My HRC seat was from a Japanese design company and these places make the HRC clutch perches, triple clamps, etc. I also thought that these HRC parts were made by magic HRC elves in some secret HRC hideaway, but not so! Aftermarket suppliers and often these high end automobile/ motorcycle parts design companies!
9

The Shop

mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/16/2020 10:41am
Awesome info Tokyo_Tiddler! Glad you like my build so far. Your RC250M build inspired me! 😂👍
4
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/17/2020 6:22pm
Finally got some parts in so I could continue the build

Installed the swingarm, HRC brake banjo bolt, and titanium bolts for the brackets on the swingarm. In this photo you can see the blue engine vent hose. I sourced the hose from Helix Racing Products and the engine vent kit from JCR Speed Shop. The kit comes with a yellow hose but I wanted to copy the current Factory Honda look. My hose color is a more transparent blue than Factory Honda but its the best I could do. Also moved the hose bracket and used the type of bracket Team Honda uses. The bracket is actually a Suzuki part. I could not find a Honda OEM bracket that matched. Go figure?



Also installed the rear brake pedal with new grease seals. The HRC brake clevis is from vintagehonda.nl it's a beautiful replica and includes a Ti pin.



Finally I did a test fit of the Yoshimura RS9 Titanium/Carbon exhaust system. Rather trouble shoot fit problems while bike is apart and easy to work on. Fortunately for me, the system fit perfect which is no surprise . The Yosh system is stunning.






13
adam8781
Posts
671
Joined
12/22/2015
Location
CA
5/17/2020 7:06pm
im drooling
1
TunaBro
Posts
421
Joined
1/3/2020
Location
Lake Stevens, WA, USA
5/18/2020 1:19pm
That yoshi exhaust is a piece of art!
1
RMolly
Posts
18
Joined
2/12/2020
Location
IE
5/18/2020 4:32pm
I'm in awe at this build,that yoshi exhaust is a thing of beauty.
smv ryder
Posts
890
Joined
11/2/2014
Location
Aspen, CO, USA
5/18/2020 6:06pm
Very nice! Now that my RC250M build is about finished, your build may inspire me to go back and do some more on my CR450 which...
Very nice! Now that my RC250M build is about finished, your build may inspire me to go back and do some more on my CR450 which already has quite a few HRC parts on it.

I love the CNC billet housing on the steering damper.

The CRT CF parts quality is decent and quick to ship parts. CRM is better but almost impossible to reach and get parts unless you are an MXGP team. The actual HRC carbon fiber tanks were made by a big auto design company in the Czech Republic. It was difficult but I tracked them down, and they had an HRC tank on the self, but they made my tank custom to my order as I wanted a standard filler cap to help keep dirt out and they did absolutely beautiful work and they did it in a month.

What I have found is that many of these HRC parts are made by automobile design companies that make special parts for the big auto and motorcycle companies including concept car parts. My HRC seat was from a Japanese design company and these places make the HRC clutch perches, triple clamps, etc. I also thought that these HRC parts were made by magic HRC elves in some secret HRC hideaway, but not so! Aftermarket suppliers and often these high end automobile/ motorcycle parts design companies!
Please please do more on the 450
smv ryder
Posts
890
Joined
11/2/2014
Location
Aspen, CO, USA
5/18/2020 6:07pm
Just too much sauce... Sorry I am so addicted to this build. Really rad work and incredibly cool dude.
1
5/19/2020 8:06am
Nice job!! This is a work of art are you gonna ride it
1
afk66
Posts
218
Joined
7/28/2018
Location
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
5/19/2020 5:46pm
Amazing build so far!!
1
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/19/2020 7:06pm
Thanks again to you all for the compliments!

So I have sorted out my triple clamp issue...I got lucky with getting actual HRC triple clamps with titanium stem and the required races, bearing, etc... As Tokyo_Tiddler thoroughly covered in his build thread, the HRC clamps use a smaller diameter stem and bearings compared to OEM.







Before I fell into such good fortune with the HRC clamps, I went ahead and put my forks on the bike using the replica clamps. The fact the stem spins in the bottom clamp is really no issue with assembling the bike. I just wouldn’t ride it that way!😂
Pictures below are the replica clamps. Once I remove them, I’ll do a comparison between the two. But already I can see some obvious differences...












12
5/19/2020 7:30pm
Unreal level of trickness in this thread.
5
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
5/19/2020 9:53pm
Clamps are in beautiful condition, too. The bearing races (cups) are hard to come by so great you got everything complete!
1
GaryC1
Posts
269
Joined
3/13/2017
Location
Belfast, GB
Fantasy
5/20/2020 2:19pm
Omg that caliper.... Shocked so fricking trick. Awesome build dude, loving watching this come together!
1
Ryan625
Posts
1689
Joined
9/14/2019
Location
Lynnwood, WA, USA
5/20/2020 9:59pm
Was that a carbon fiber valve cover I saw!? I need details on that if so...
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
5/20/2020 10:29pm
Ryan625 wrote:
Was that a carbon fiber valve cover I saw!? I need details on that if so...
They sell a CF cover that slips over the stock valve cover. I have a new one still in package for sale for the 2009-2016 CRF450.
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/27/2020 6:21pm
Got a chance to do a little work on the bike this week. Installed the HRC triple clamps, Ti stem, bearings and races. I used Motion Pro tools to remove and install the races and bearings and it couldn’t have been easier! The HRC clamps are the next level when it comes to quality and design compared to my replicas (which are actually really nice).






The notch in the bottom clamp is designed to hold a shim that would allow different diameter forks to be used.

I also installed CV4 radiator hoses using "ear" clamps (the radiators are not mounted to the frame in the pictures). The clamps require a special crimping tool but are much cleaner looking and more secure than the traditional worm screw clamp.


Major item To Do List: Install the electronics, wheels, HRC billet linkage (going to strip old clear anodizing and then polish), and start planning on how to make HRC hydraulic clutch operational (going to require case machining and welding). I plan on during a post/pictures with more details of the HRC clutch.






8
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
5/27/2020 6:46pm
Will you put a thin aluminum washer under your top stem nut so you don't gouge your clamps when tightening as well as get a better torque reading?
1
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/27/2020 8:20pm
Will you put a thin aluminum washer under your top stem nut so you don't gouge your clamps when tightening as well as get a better...
Will you put a thin aluminum washer under your top stem nut so you don't gouge your clamps when tightening as well as get a better torque reading?
I was wondering if that was something that needed to be done. The nut is only hand tight at the moment because I was worried about exactly what you said. Do you have a spec/source on the type of washer that's needed? Thanks!
2
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
5/27/2020 8:44pm Edited Date/Time 5/28/2020 8:19pm
Will you put a thin aluminum washer under your top stem nut so you don't gouge your clamps when tightening as well as get a better...
Will you put a thin aluminum washer under your top stem nut so you don't gouge your clamps when tightening as well as get a better torque reading?
mxav8r wrote:
I was wondering if that was something that needed to be done. The nut is only hand tight at the moment because I was worried about...
I was wondering if that was something that needed to be done. The nut is only hand tight at the moment because I was worried about exactly what you said. Do you have a spec/source on the type of washer that's needed? Thanks!
I have actually seen the factory mechanics use the nut with and without a washer, but it is best with a proper washer. The thickness of the washer will depend on how much of the stem is above the clamps. Since the HRC stem is smaller diameter than OEM parts, a metric washer with the right OD and ID is a little tricky, but XR600Rs and CRF150's use the same size stem nut, washer, and dust seals as the HRC steering stem parts. I used a CRF150 washer which was the perfect thickness for my case. The one part that you can't steal from the OEM parts bin is the HRC bearing races.. they are a rather unique OD.

Will you get an HRC radiator cap for your build?
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
5/29/2020 7:35pm
Getting close to done...

15
Helda3
Posts
85
Joined
2/20/2020
Location
AU
6/1/2020 9:10pm
mxav8r wrote:
Getting close to done... [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/05/29/430095/s1200_IMG_8646.jpg[/img]
Getting close to done...

Wow, Just wow!
3
deccr250
Posts
449
Joined
2/25/2018
Location
GB
6/2/2020 1:32am
Great work on this so far man, parts and attention to detail are amazing Smile
1
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
6/2/2020 4:17pm
Next step is to install the bearings in the HRC linkage. From what I can tell this linkage is either forged or cast then machined to spec in certain areas (I have limited knowledge of metal fab. So please chime in if you have better info).

This is how the linkage looked when I got it...Picture isn’t the best quality. Clear anodized but kind of "milky" and not very uniform. I was told by the person from whom I purchased the linkage that it looked more translucent and actually really nice when new.



I decided to strip the old anodizing and go for the polished look. I used a ano and chrome stripper from Caswell, Inc.
After the stripping was done the aluminum had a black coating from the process. But a little soak in Alumabrite CBX from Aurora Marine cleaned the aluminum up nicely. On to the polish using billet metal polish and a rag. The result where acceptable. I think if I put more time and used a buffing wheel it could look a little "brighter". But I actually like the subtle polished look.







Far as the build process is going, I'm almost done. This is my first time stripping a fuel injected four stroke down to the frame. And my first Honda so I was a little nervous mostly about getting the wiring/fuel harness back on and done correctly. Turned out no worries needed! Actually an easy job. I did learn really the only way to the airboot back on the injector was to take the boot off the airbox. Then attach the boot to injector then airbox to boot.



More updates to come!




4
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
6/2/2020 6:30pm Edited Date/Time 6/2/2020 6:32pm
I would be surprised if the linkage were cast.. a works linkage would be machined from billet for maximum strength. The heavy black "soot" after de-anodizing means that it is 7075 aluminum which HRC uses for most parts that need strength.. it the zinc and copper in the metal that turns black. You should have gotten the "deoxider/ anti-smut" from Caswell (usually Ferric acid), which would have cleaned the black out of every nook and cranny in about 15-30 seconds in the solution.

My HRC linkage was NOS and when I wiped it with an aluminum cleaning solution, it quickly got a bit too shiny although I didn't really polish it. Too shiny and it is hard to see the cool machine marks in the metal.. I left as is but I try to avoid making the parts too shiny. I find I get the nicest finish on older parts by first hitting with wd40 and a 3m pad, then polishing it real shiny, then dulling it back down again with a 2nd application of the 3M pad. There is a big difference in the quality of the finish with these extra steps.. it makes the metal look freshly machined rather than "cleaned up" and bright enough without being too shiny.

Looks good as you have it right now. You don't want to polish out the machine marks, right?
3
mxav8r
Posts
605
Joined
10/26/2006
Location
Atl, GA, USA
6/2/2020 6:50pm
Awesome info Tokyo_Tiddler! Thank you!
Correct ...I do not want to polish out the machine marks.
I will look into getting the deoxider/anti-smut solution from Caswell and probably just redo the polishing process as you recommended.
Always good info and much appreciated.
2
Tokyo_Tiddler
Posts
2174
Joined
7/25/2009
Location
Somewhere in, NJ, USA
6/2/2020 7:23pm
mxav8r wrote:
Awesome info Tokyo_Tiddler! Thank you! Correct ...I do not want to polish out the machine marks. I will look into getting the deoxider/anti-smut solution from Caswell...
Awesome info Tokyo_Tiddler! Thank you!
Correct ...I do not want to polish out the machine marks.
I will look into getting the deoxider/anti-smut solution from Caswell and probably just redo the polishing process as you recommended.
Always good info and much appreciated.
It looks like you have them pretty clean now, though. The deoxidizer will only clean further if you still have black smut in the pores/ crevices. It works quickly.. you just swish it around in the solution for a few seconds on the end of an aluminum wire and any smut disappears. Your parts look pretty clean now in the pics, and I would be afraid of touching them with polish and a pad in order to keep the machine marks as apparent as possible. I think it looks good if the linkage stands out, but not too shiny where it looks out of place. In my own case, my pull rods are a little too shiny than what I intended, but at the right angle you can still see all the machine marks which kind of makes the statement, "this ain't no cast stock linkage" Smile

Anyone can polish up a cast OEM linkage to look nice, but they can't recreate the machine marks like a works piece.
4

Post a reply to: 2016 HRC Team Honda CRF450RW

The Latest