125/150/250/300 KTM/HUS/GG jetting thread

Lowlander
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Perth, AU
10/25/2019 6:58pm
Just jumping in on this thread. Bought a NOS TC125 for my 16 year old daughter and straight away the jetting is miles off. Have filed a bit off the slide and will do so slowly as I am struggling to find the right dimension for a number 5.0

2.1 hours on the bike
lowered 30mm front and rear
Gearing stock at the minute but have a 14 front and 52 rear to try out some options
power valve stock setting
10oz flywheel weight (beginner rider)

480 main
Stock pilot 37.5
42-74 needle 2nd clip
98 fuel @40:1 motorex

Still to try it out. Maybe get a run today. As everything frees off I know things will change.


Initial 2 hours of running in was interesting to say the least. The lean bog at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle was unreal on a stock 42-75 needle (from memory don't quote). Air screw super sensitive which had me playing with the slide straight away. Then found this thread. So looks like my thinking is along the correct path.

Will update as I go. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction or provide number 5 slide dimensions......
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX, USA
10/25/2019 8:08pm
Lowlander wrote:
Just jumping in on this thread. Bought a NOS TC125 for my 16 year old daughter and straight away the jetting is miles off. Have filed...
Just jumping in on this thread. Bought a NOS TC125 for my 16 year old daughter and straight away the jetting is miles off. Have filed a bit off the slide and will do so slowly as I am struggling to find the right dimension for a number 5.0

2.1 hours on the bike
lowered 30mm front and rear
Gearing stock at the minute but have a 14 front and 52 rear to try out some options
power valve stock setting
10oz flywheel weight (beginner rider)

480 main
Stock pilot 37.5
42-74 needle 2nd clip
98 fuel @40:1 motorex

Still to try it out. Maybe get a run today. As everything frees off I know things will change.


Initial 2 hours of running in was interesting to say the least. The lean bog at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle was unreal on a stock 42-75 needle (from memory don't quote). Air screw super sensitive which had me playing with the slide straight away. Then found this thread. So looks like my thinking is along the correct path.

Will update as I go. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction or provide number 5 slide dimensions......
the top center of the notch is 1mm higher on a 5.0 slide from the stock 4.0 then blend into the side radius.
Lowlander
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Perth, AU
10/26/2019 12:11am
Lowlander wrote:
Just jumping in on this thread. Bought a NOS TC125 for my 16 year old daughter and straight away the jetting is miles off. Have filed...
Just jumping in on this thread. Bought a NOS TC125 for my 16 year old daughter and straight away the jetting is miles off. Have filed a bit off the slide and will do so slowly as I am struggling to find the right dimension for a number 5.0

2.1 hours on the bike
lowered 30mm front and rear
Gearing stock at the minute but have a 14 front and 52 rear to try out some options
power valve stock setting
10oz flywheel weight (beginner rider)

480 main
Stock pilot 37.5
42-74 needle 2nd clip
98 fuel @40:1 motorex

Still to try it out. Maybe get a run today. As everything frees off I know things will change.


Initial 2 hours of running in was interesting to say the least. The lean bog at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle was unreal on a stock 42-75 needle (from memory don't quote). Air screw super sensitive which had me playing with the slide straight away. Then found this thread. So looks like my thinking is along the correct path.

Will update as I go. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction or provide number 5 slide dimensions......
AJ565 wrote:
the top center of the notch is 1mm higher on a 5.0 slide from the stock 4.0 then blend into the side radius.
Cheers AJ
Lowlander
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10/26/2019 5:13am
Well, decent improvement. Bike pulled hard through the mid range and up top.

A little rich down low (loading up the plug slowly). Still have a hesitation about 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle but not major like before.

Temperature wise its up to 26C from about 22C last time out. So that might have contributed to the slight improvement.

Next, will take the slide 0.5mm further, go to a 35 pilot and position 3 on 42-74 needle.

Bike has 2.9 hours now.

The Shop

AJ565
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10/26/2019 6:48am
Lowlander wrote:
Well, decent improvement. Bike pulled hard through the mid range and up top. A little rich down low (loading up the plug slowly). Still have a...
Well, decent improvement. Bike pulled hard through the mid range and up top.

A little rich down low (loading up the plug slowly). Still have a hesitation about 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle but not major like before.

Temperature wise its up to 26C from about 22C last time out. So that might have contributed to the slight improvement.

Next, will take the slide 0.5mm further, go to a 35 pilot and position 3 on 42-74 needle.

Bike has 2.9 hours now.
If you've already cut the slide to a 5.0 then leave it alone. Try the clip position first then the PJ. Also reset the PV to 1 3/4 turns in from all the way out,that seems to help corner exit noticeably. Double check the float height too.
Jayklash
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GB
10/26/2019 8:50am
Jayklash wrote:
So I took the bike to the track today for the first time I'm since rejecting to your specs. As I said previously 32.5 pilot was...
So I took the bike to the track today for the first time I'm since rejecting to your specs. As I said previously 32.5 pilot was too small and would bog when I pull the throttle quickly. I went straight to the 37.5 pilot instead of the 35 as I didn't really want to have to reject at the track with the bike all dirty if the pilot was still a bit lean. So I went two turns in on the air screw with 37.5 and the bike ran crisp and clean. The jetting was spot on throughout the entire range. Thanks again. another bike jetted perfectly 👊🏼
digger wrote:
With the 37.5 pilot, is that with the front side of the slide notched ? Can you list your current carb specs ?
Probably also worth mentioning that I have swapped the stock Power Valve spring for the yellow spring and currently have the power valve screw 1.5 turns in
Lowlander
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10/26/2019 8:53am
AJ565 wrote:
If you've already cut the slide to a 5.0 then leave it alone. Try the clip position first then the PJ. Also reset the PV to...
If you've already cut the slide to a 5.0 then leave it alone. Try the clip position first then the PJ. Also reset the PV to 1 3/4 turns in from all the way out,that seems to help corner exit noticeably. Double check the float height too.
I have cut about .4mm out. So a 4.4 at the minute.

Will go to a 5 over the next few days and test again.
Lowlander
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11/3/2019 7:33am
Well today saw a little improvement. But still not pulling clean. Still a hesitation at 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle openings and won't continue to accelerate without giving it a handful.

23 degrees C <1000ft ASL
35 pilot (1 3/4 turns out air screw)
42-74 Position 3
480 main.

Not adjusted the power valve yet.
Also thought I read in the manual for the 2018 that it has an S7 needle jet.
Jayklash
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11/3/2019 8:36am
Lowlander wrote:
Well today saw a little improvement. But still not pulling clean. Still a hesitation at 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle openings and won't continue to accelerate without...
Well today saw a little improvement. But still not pulling clean. Still a hesitation at 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle openings and won't continue to accelerate without giving it a handful.

23 degrees C <1000ft ASL
35 pilot (1 3/4 turns out air screw)
42-74 Position 3
480 main.

Not adjusted the power valve yet.
Also thought I read in the manual for the 2018 that it has an S7 needle jet.
These are my current carb specs. bike runs clean and crisp and pulls hard throughout the entire range
...more

42-74 needle 2nd clip
S4 needle jet
Slide 5.0
MJ: 490
PJ: 37.5
Air screw 2 turns out

AJ565
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11/3/2019 3:57pm
This is where I’m at with my 250 as of today. It was low 70’s for a high.

MJ 500
PJ 35
AS 1.5 turns out
Needle jet S4 from the off road models
Needle 42-75 on the 3rd clip
Slide 5.5ish (I cut it and filed the front notch on the stock slide)
PV 1.75 turns in from all the way out
Ethanol free 90 octane pump gas mixed 50:1

When first started up warm it kinda wanted to load up a touch in the pits riding to the track. Cleared it out and it was fine when I got to the track gate. On track I had no hesitation and no loading up with instant throttle response everywhere and pulled hard all the way from off idle to wide open. For full disclosure I was at Cycle Ranch today and that is basically a sand track, which would require richer jetting because of being wide open everywhere. I did set a new PR lap time according to my LITPro though, so take that for what it’s worth. I’ll try the same jetting in two weeks hopefully at a different track to see if it loads up, but I don’t think it will of the temps are the same. I’m sure once it’s hot again the main and pilot will have to be dropped or maybe the pilot and the needle clip.
jeffoff
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12/10/2019 2:17pm
Gave this setup a try today, last time on track was horrible with stock settings. Only my third ride with this bike, bought 2nd hand and total rebuild.
No power in low rpm, had to clutch every corner.
Had no opportunity to go to the track so took it to a nearby field to try.

TC250 2018
Around 7 c°
Sealevel
MJ 480
PJ 45
Slide #5, did not found 5.5 over here.
Needle 42-75 on third clip
Needle jet S4
AS 1.3 turns out
Float height 8mm
Jet block gasket not changed yet
98 fuel @ 40:1 with mobil 1 racing 2stroke
14/49 with paddle tyre, only ride sandtracks
Vforce 4
VHM head with their higher compression insert
PPS complete exhaust

I was happy with the result today, felt better!
Have to go to the track to confirm.
I will try smaller size pilot and bigger main, maybe try 50 tooth on the rear to aid with paddle tyre.

Thanks to digger & AJ for the great info!
AJ565
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12/10/2019 3:14pm
jeffoff wrote:
Gave this setup a try today, last time on track was horrible with stock settings. Only my third ride with this bike, bought 2nd hand and...
Gave this setup a try today, last time on track was horrible with stock settings. Only my third ride with this bike, bought 2nd hand and total rebuild.
No power in low rpm, had to clutch every corner.
Had no opportunity to go to the track so took it to a nearby field to try.

TC250 2018
Around 7 c°
Sealevel
MJ 480
PJ 45
Slide #5, did not found 5.5 over here.
Needle 42-75 on third clip
Needle jet S4
AS 1.3 turns out
Float height 8mm
Jet block gasket not changed yet
98 fuel @ 40:1 with mobil 1 racing 2stroke
14/49 with paddle tyre, only ride sandtracks
Vforce 4
VHM head with their higher compression insert
PPS complete exhaust

I was happy with the result today, felt better!
Have to go to the track to confirm.
I will try smaller size pilot and bigger main, maybe try 50 tooth on the rear to aid with paddle tyre.

Thanks to digger & AJ for the great info!
No problem. Depending on if you think jetting is a pain to change or not you should try 35 pilot and a 500 main and see what you think. So far thats a killer sand jetting for me, but it will load up idling through the pits back and forth to the track. I rode with it a few weeks ago on a non sand track and I have dry black carbon in the silencer so its a touch rich for normal tracks here. I'm riding this weekend and plan on dropping needle one to see if that takes care of the loading and leans it out enough or if I'll need to drop it back to a 490 MJ. I'm also running 90 octane fuel mixed at 55:1.
jeffoff
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12/10/2019 11:31pm
AJ565 wrote:
No problem. Depending on if you think jetting is a pain to change or not you should try 35 pilot and a 500 main and see...
No problem. Depending on if you think jetting is a pain to change or not you should try 35 pilot and a 500 main and see what you think. So far thats a killer sand jetting for me, but it will load up idling through the pits back and forth to the track. I rode with it a few weeks ago on a non sand track and I have dry black carbon in the silencer so its a touch rich for normal tracks here. I'm riding this weekend and plan on dropping needle one to see if that takes care of the loading and leans it out enough or if I'll need to drop it back to a 490 MJ. I'm also running 90 octane fuel mixed at 55:1.
No don't mind, changing MJ & PJ is done quickly.... this afternoon when i get to the dealer i will pick up 490 & 500 MJ, and install it right away...
For PJ, think will start safe and first try 40. Test it, and then determine if i go leaner. Prefer to have things a tad on the rich side Silly
Forgot to mention i put in the yellow pv spring, 1.9turns in from fully out.

How is your roll on power? Lets say coming out 180deg turn, 2nd gear just above idle. You need the clutch?
I have no comparison for this bike, or baseline from new...
Bruce372
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12/10/2019 11:59pm
AJ565 wrote:
No problem. Depending on if you think jetting is a pain to change or not you should try 35 pilot and a 500 main and see...
No problem. Depending on if you think jetting is a pain to change or not you should try 35 pilot and a 500 main and see what you think. So far thats a killer sand jetting for me, but it will load up idling through the pits back and forth to the track. I rode with it a few weeks ago on a non sand track and I have dry black carbon in the silencer so its a touch rich for normal tracks here. I'm riding this weekend and plan on dropping needle one to see if that takes care of the loading and leans it out enough or if I'll need to drop it back to a 490 MJ. I'm also running 90 octane fuel mixed at 55:1.
jeffoff wrote:
No don't mind, changing MJ & PJ is done quickly.... this afternoon when i get to the dealer i will pick up 490 & 500 MJ...
No don't mind, changing MJ & PJ is done quickly.... this afternoon when i get to the dealer i will pick up 490 & 500 MJ, and install it right away...
For PJ, think will start safe and first try 40. Test it, and then determine if i go leaner. Prefer to have things a tad on the rich side Silly
Forgot to mention i put in the yellow pv spring, 1.9turns in from fully out.

How is your roll on power? Lets say coming out 180deg turn, 2nd gear just above idle. You need the clutch?
I have no comparison for this bike, or baseline from new...
Dont worry about leaning the pilot. The worst that will happen is it will bog. Detonation usually comes from needle in my experience, it's rare to detonate on the main on a 250 since mere mortals never hold it wide open often or long enough.

Sometimes detonation is your friend, it means you aren't far away from a good setting
AJ565
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12/11/2019 7:28am
jeffoff wrote:
No don't mind, changing MJ & PJ is done quickly.... this afternoon when i get to the dealer i will pick up 490 & 500 MJ...
No don't mind, changing MJ & PJ is done quickly.... this afternoon when i get to the dealer i will pick up 490 & 500 MJ, and install it right away...
For PJ, think will start safe and first try 40. Test it, and then determine if i go leaner. Prefer to have things a tad on the rich side Silly
Forgot to mention i put in the yellow pv spring, 1.9turns in from fully out.

How is your roll on power? Lets say coming out 180deg turn, 2nd gear just above idle. You need the clutch?
I have no comparison for this bike, or baseline from new...
Very little clutch if any. I have the stock power valve spring set to 1 3/4 turns in from all the way out. My throttle response is instant. I've let a few slower than me guys ride it and they don't like it because its to snappy for them like an off to on switch. Check out this video, while not in sand, there is slow sections and parts that transition from off idle to wide open and you can hear how the engine reacts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w17-wLnLBI&t=3s
1
jeffoff
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12/12/2019 4:04am
AJ565 wrote:
Very little clutch if any. I have the stock power valve spring set to 1 3/4 turns in from all the way out. My throttle response...
Very little clutch if any. I have the stock power valve spring set to 1 3/4 turns in from all the way out. My throttle response is instant. I've let a few slower than me guys ride it and they don't like it because its to snappy for them like an off to on switch. Check out this video, while not in sand, there is slow sections and parts that transition from off idle to wide open and you can hear how the engine reacts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w17-wLnLBI&t=3s
Bike is running crisp!
Looked like a fun race to ride, nice riding btw.
Hopefully we have some dry days left so i can go to the track for some testing...
AJ565
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12/12/2019 7:23am
jeffoff wrote:
Bike is running crisp! Looked like a fun race to ride, nice riding btw. Hopefully we have some dry days left so i can go to...
Bike is running crisp!
Looked like a fun race to ride, nice riding btw.
Hopefully we have some dry days left so i can go to the track for some testing...
Thank you, it was a pretty fun event.

These carbs take a little tinkering with to get right, but they are amazing and don't need much once dialed in. Totally changes the bike when its set right.
1
jeffoff
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12/24/2019 11:40pm
Replaced the jet block gaskets on my te300 and tc250.
On the 300 the gasket was deformed, on the 250 starting to...
Both replaced with the jd jetting kits, tomorrow we go ride some enduro. Curious if i will notice some difference.

Happy holidays to you all!
12/27/2019 5:30am
Hey guys, just wondering, when you say to notch the slide are we talking about the little notch at the engine side of the slide?
Take it from 4mm deep to 5mm?
Thanks
AJ565
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12/27/2019 6:33am
Hey guys, just wondering, when you say to notch the slide are we talking about the little notch at the engine side of the slide? Take...
Hey guys, just wondering, when you say to notch the slide are we talking about the little notch at the engine side of the slide?
Take it from 4mm deep to 5mm?
Thanks
Well, both sides actually. You can make the small notch 4mm deep and wide. The big notch is the one that we've been talking more about. I've been cutting them 1mm deeper in the middle and blending them into the rest of the notch. It doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the way the bike runs.
BikePilot
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Golden, CO, USA
12/31/2019 5:23am
Fwiw the 4mm slide notch (I used a 5/32nds chain saw file) and drilling holes in the float bowl plug and plastic baffle above the main jet worked wonders for my 19 TX300. The slide notch let it run and pull cleanly right off idle where there was a dead spot otherwise. The holes to get more fuel to the main jet cup let it pull longer up top. Feels like another 500rpm before it signs off. I would imagine that these mods would be beneficial to most any bike running this carb.
digger
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Upstate, NY, USA
1/1/2020 5:04pm Edited Date/Time 7/4/2022 12:02pm
BikePilot wrote:
Fwiw the 4mm slide notch (I used a 5/32nds chain saw file) and drilling holes in the float bowl plug and plastic baffle above the main...
Fwiw the 4mm slide notch (I used a 5/32nds chain saw file) and drilling holes in the float bowl plug and plastic baffle above the main jet worked wonders for my 19 TX300. The slide notch let it run and pull cleanly right off idle where there was a dead spot otherwise. The holes to get more fuel to the main jet cup let it pull longer up top. Feels like another 500rpm before it signs off. I would imagine that these mods would be beneficial to most any bike running this carb.
I have done the carbs on a bunch of these bikes(125--300,KTM/Husky's) now, with the majority of them not having the float bowl mod done. I've never been able to tell the difference after riding the bikes back to back with and without the float bowl mod done. The slide mod though is a most do modification, if you are going to use the Mikuni carb. It makes a very substantial difference in the way the engine proforms.
1/1/2020 5:36pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2020 5:38pm
Hey all. Thanks so much to everyone for this valuable info! Question - searched a lot, and looking for the quickest procedure to swap jets. I have a 2017 tc250, going to be trying the Mikuni again to compare to my current setup. Need the most efficient jet swapping procedure IE: just turn carb, or need to take off lower subframe bolts, etc. Thanks!
BikePilot
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1/1/2020 6:31pm
I did one mod at a time and rode back to back. I noticed a big difference with the float bowl mod. It's only noticeable when under a high load, open throttle and high rpm for an extended period of time. Like blitzing a long 4-5th gear soft whoop section or long high speed hill climb. The bike is fast enough that probably a large percentage of riders never really explore the upper end of power output for more than a second or two, but if you do the float bowl mod makes a noticeable difference and there's no downside that I can tell.
BikePilot
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1/1/2020 6:38pm
Hey all. Thanks so much to everyone for this valuable info! Question - searched a lot, and looking for the quickest procedure to swap jets. I...
Hey all. Thanks so much to everyone for this valuable info! Question - searched a lot, and looking for the quickest procedure to swap jets. I have a 2017 tc250, going to be trying the Mikuni again to compare to my current setup. Need the most efficient jet swapping procedure IE: just turn carb, or need to take off lower subframe bolts, etc. Thanks!
On my 19 TX I loosen the two carb boot clamps (6mm T handle iirc), spin the carb so the float bowl is toward the shifter side of the bike, then use a 17mm to take the float bowl plug off, then the 6mm T again to spin the main out.

To do the needle I leave it in about that position and use a long T handle to undo the two screws ontop of the carb, then carefully manuver the slide out.

All in main jet swaps are sub 5 minutes and needle adjustment is probably 10 minutes.

I have not needed to change the pilot much, but I think you can sneak it out through the float bowl plug with a small slot screwdriver using the same procedure as you'd use to access the main.

Your 17 has a different frame and tank so it might be a little different, but I think it's actually a bit more room. I swapped mains on a couple buddy's 17 300s and had no issues.
BikePilot
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1/1/2020 6:41pm
Oh, I also use a JD air screw that has a thumbwheel for easy trailside tweaks. I ride in CO and can range from 7-13k elevation in one ride so it's handy. With the slide mod the air screw becomes more effective and can cover a really wide range.
AJ565
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2/18/2020 7:13pm
Updated the first post with part numbers for the needle jet and the needle.
#434
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DE
3/10/2020 3:18am
Goood thread! Just bought a mint 2017 125sx.
Here's what I run:
Vforce 4
HGS pipe and silencer
Jarvis mods (pinched overflow, holes to the splash cover and drain bolt)
Changed the inner sealing
adjusted the float heigth to 8,7 mm
slide #4 with filed groove
500 main
35 pilot
air screw 2 out
S7 needle jet
43-73 needle in 2. position

Runs good but not perfect. Little lag fom 1/4 zo 1/3 throttle. I will try different needle diameters and positions to sort that out when the weather gets better.

I made a little chart how Needle and Needle Jet interact. It's important to note that they form an anullar gap. So it's not linear how the combination changes the surface and therfore the flow rate.

AJ565
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3/10/2020 7:58am
Cut that slide to a 5.0, drop the pilot to a 32.5 and that 1/4-1/3 throttle hesitation goes away.
#434
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3/10/2020 4:47pm
How do I do that? If I‘m going to do the slide mod I want to do it right so I would need a drawing or something similar. German engineer, can‘t help it...

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