Posts
40
Joined
5/10/2018
Location
Denver, PA
US
Edited Date/Time
1/13/2020 5:46pm
What's up guys?! I don't post a whole lot on here, but I'm too excited about how this bike turned out to not post about it.
I bought this bike from a guy in Maryland in October of 2018. At that point, it was a rolling chassis with the motor all torn apart and thrown in multiple boxes. Here's pictures of the Facebook Marketplace ad...
Pics from the night I brought it home...
So, here's the route that I ended up going with for the bike.
First up was the Motor:
Cylinder was shipped to Millenium for their "M-Spec" 134 big bore kit. Bored, plated, ported for mid-top, and head set for pump gas.
OEM Crank/Crank bearings, New Pro-x clutch plates, various tranny bearings and clutch side bearings.
Scotchbrite and lots of elbow grease to clean up the cases the best I could.
I scored an awesome FMF ignition cover on ebay!! I've never seen one like it in my life and I couldn't find anything else about them online.
Frame was powder coated black and the triple clamps, clutch cover, and powervalve covers were powdercoated a metallic ish gray (Bronze Metallic was the name of the color, but its definitely not bronze).
Cleaning up the swingarm/linkage the best that I can. Swingarm bearings were replaced, but I was able to salvage the linkage bearings with just new seals.
Motor's in the frame, starting to piece stuff together...
Bought some sss forks off ebay (off a 2007 yz 250f). For those wondering, I'll detail my experience with the
fork swap on a 2004.
I used my stock 2004 triple clamps, so steering stop clearance and stem length was not an issue. Forks were from 2007 yz 250f. I needed to use the 2007 axle and spacers, brake line, and front brake caliper mounting bracket. I used my stock 2004 master cylinder, caliper, and front wheel. But I did need to use the 2007 brake line and mounting bracket.
In 2006 (I believe) yamaha spread their triple clamps out by 1mm on each side, but cast their fork lugs in 1mm to make up for it. So, using the 2007 forks (cast in 1mm) and 2004 clamps (not widened) results in the wheel pushed 1mm away from brake side. To make up for this, took 1mm off the brake side wheel spacer using a lathe in order to center the wheel. Other side doesn't matter because it just floats and doesn't set where the wheel is.
So, the swap really wasn't too difficult, just took some proper thinking and planning...
Believe it or not, all of the stock spokes came out fairly easily and I was able to reuse them to lace up some black Moose rims. Had a set of used Dunlops that I threw on for now.
Some good old redneck truing... hahaha worked well for me!
A few more pics of the process... slowly getting there!
I made a neat little hour meter mounting bracket off of the steering stem... It replaces the washer that was there...
Other little details...
Tag bars,
Used pegs from 2015 yz
FMF Fatty and Shorty (came with the bike, cleaned up really well! )
Mostly new plastics with MGX Graphics
Works Connection radiator braces
Multiple anodized caps/nuts
WC frame guards were just ordered, will soon be here (plan is to powdercoat them black as well)
I will also be getting the suspension revalved and sprung for me within the next few weeks.
Here's some final pics! I'm absolutely thrilled with how it turned out. Started within a few kicks... I've only done a few heat cycles so far, but I'm really anxious to see how it screams. I'm gonna hate getting her dirty, but I know its gotta be done, hahaha
Thanks for reading!!
Tommy
I bought this bike from a guy in Maryland in October of 2018. At that point, it was a rolling chassis with the motor all torn apart and thrown in multiple boxes. Here's pictures of the Facebook Marketplace ad...
Pics from the night I brought it home...
So, here's the route that I ended up going with for the bike.
First up was the Motor:
Cylinder was shipped to Millenium for their "M-Spec" 134 big bore kit. Bored, plated, ported for mid-top, and head set for pump gas.
OEM Crank/Crank bearings, New Pro-x clutch plates, various tranny bearings and clutch side bearings.
Scotchbrite and lots of elbow grease to clean up the cases the best I could.
I scored an awesome FMF ignition cover on ebay!! I've never seen one like it in my life and I couldn't find anything else about them online.
Frame was powder coated black and the triple clamps, clutch cover, and powervalve covers were powdercoated a metallic ish gray (Bronze Metallic was the name of the color, but its definitely not bronze).
Cleaning up the swingarm/linkage the best that I can. Swingarm bearings were replaced, but I was able to salvage the linkage bearings with just new seals.
Motor's in the frame, starting to piece stuff together...
Bought some sss forks off ebay (off a 2007 yz 250f). For those wondering, I'll detail my experience with the
fork swap on a 2004.
I used my stock 2004 triple clamps, so steering stop clearance and stem length was not an issue. Forks were from 2007 yz 250f. I needed to use the 2007 axle and spacers, brake line, and front brake caliper mounting bracket. I used my stock 2004 master cylinder, caliper, and front wheel. But I did need to use the 2007 brake line and mounting bracket.
In 2006 (I believe) yamaha spread their triple clamps out by 1mm on each side, but cast their fork lugs in 1mm to make up for it. So, using the 2007 forks (cast in 1mm) and 2004 clamps (not widened) results in the wheel pushed 1mm away from brake side. To make up for this, took 1mm off the brake side wheel spacer using a lathe in order to center the wheel. Other side doesn't matter because it just floats and doesn't set where the wheel is.
So, the swap really wasn't too difficult, just took some proper thinking and planning...
Believe it or not, all of the stock spokes came out fairly easily and I was able to reuse them to lace up some black Moose rims. Had a set of used Dunlops that I threw on for now.
Some good old redneck truing... hahaha worked well for me!
A few more pics of the process... slowly getting there!
I made a neat little hour meter mounting bracket off of the steering stem... It replaces the washer that was there...
Other little details...
Tag bars,
Used pegs from 2015 yz
FMF Fatty and Shorty (came with the bike, cleaned up really well! )
Mostly new plastics with MGX Graphics
Works Connection radiator braces
Multiple anodized caps/nuts
WC frame guards were just ordered, will soon be here (plan is to powdercoat them black as well)
I will also be getting the suspension revalved and sprung for me within the next few weeks.
Here's some final pics! I'm absolutely thrilled with how it turned out. Started within a few kicks... I've only done a few heat cycles so far, but I'm really anxious to see how it screams. I'm gonna hate getting her dirty, but I know its gotta be done, hahaha
Thanks for reading!!
Tommy
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Free shipping: VITALMX
@Smashingpumkins167 Maybe we are! hahaha.... I love that white and purple though, looks really nice!
Side note.
Getting that clutch cover powdercoated was a big pain in the butt!! The reason for that is because there is a bearing for the clutch actuator arm pressed into it. You need to sandblast before you powdercoat, so I felt it best to pull the bearing and replace it with a new one after blasting/coating was done.
But, its not a simple "blind-bearing" to pull out. The actuator arm has splines at the bottom that are too big to fit through the bearing. So, you have get the bearing out with the arm still in the cover. Very poor design by Yamaha, I think...
I used a good bit of heat and multiple different punches to get it out, I ended up mutilating it, but I was replacing it any way. It was also pretty difficult putting the new one in with the arm in the way.
Here's what the schematic looks like
Our track at home was a little dry this weekend, but still got a good 1.5 hours on the bike so far. Love it like crazy!!
The motor runs so strong, I'd definitely recommend the M-spec kit for other 125 owners.
Didn't ride this bike stock, but I can say it has significantly more power than my brother's 2006 yz 125 (newer gen motor than 2004). Really strong mid range and pulls great whole way through to the top. Doesn't have quite as much over-rev as a stock 125, but I still felt that it was pretty solid.
Suspension felt great as well, again very similar to my brother's 2006, as to be expected with the SSS forks.
I really like the bracket you made for your hour meter. Do you want to make another one?
Pit Row
I'm fairly certain that I caught it very soon after it happened, but nevertheless I was riding for a few sections with little to no tranny oil. I'm thinking the clutch and trans should all be fine, but I will check everything over closely while I am in there...
But man does this suck!! I'm gonna have do split the cases again, and pull all the bearings form that side case and put them into a new case.
I contacted somebody about possibly welding it back up and rethreading/machining flat ( I would still split the cases for them to do this) but I don't really think that I want to go that route. What do you guys think??
Guess I might invest in a skid plate after this... hahaha
Update: I pulled the motor yesterday and got some parts ordered up (found a used case half on ebay for $110) . It should be all back together by next weekend.
I ended up buying an ebay used right case half for a decent price, bearings swapped over relatively easily and we were back in business.
Here is how it sits now, along with some riding videos at Miles Mountain MX last weekend.
https://youtu.be/d3kwQ7uyA_c
It's crazy how much of a difference just a silencer can make on the entire power curve. The shorty feels snappy and responsive with great low/mid and fair top. The long turbinecore really just smooths and flattens it out, maybe pulling for a little bit longer up top. It's fun to swap back and forth on a ride day and feel the change that it makes.
Post a reply to: My Winter Build : 2004 YZ 125 (134 BB, SSS swap)