looking for recommendations on two bike hitch haulers

Manco
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Denver, CO US
Edited Date/Time 6/16/2019 2:23pm
I am in the market for a two bike hitch hauler to haul a Y250 and a TTR125.
I having been looking at the Black Widow with the 600lb rating.
I own the one bike version and like it so I thought I might just up for the two bike version.
The two bike does seem a little long though at 58".
Has anybody used one?
Any other brands I should check out?

Here is the Black Widow one I am thinking to get.
https://www.discountramps.com/double-motorcycle-carrier/p/AMC-600-2/


I have also seen this one. I am a little leery of it with how close the bikes sit. It looks like they are cramming the bikes too close to use a shorter bar and get a higher weight rating. The bar expands to only 37.5" long. It looks like its a few pieces put together that make the bar.
https://wmastore.com/product/1000lb-double-dual-dirtbike-motorcycle-carrier-w-loading-ramp-am1306a-htm

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SEE ARE125
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TN US
5/30/2019 4:59pm
The bottom one looks adjustable. Like you can adjust the distance between bikes, possibly even remove the 2nd one. Looks like it has wing nuts on the bottom, and slides on the two rails on each side.
zippytech
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5/30/2019 5:09pm
That's a lot of weight.. i want one for my 230l Honda but I just like to see one in person
Manco
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5/30/2019 5:38pm
SEE ARE125 wrote:
The bottom one looks adjustable. Like you can adjust the distance between bikes, possibly even remove the 2nd one. Looks like it has wing nuts on...
The bottom one looks adjustable. Like you can adjust the distance between bikes, possibly even remove the 2nd one. Looks like it has wing nuts on the bottom, and slides on the two rails on each side.
The adjustability looks nice but I am a little leery of complex bolt together hitch haulers as they have more parts that add sway and are prone to coming loose. I have hauled several thousand miles with a Harbor Freight and a Black Widow carrier. The Harbour Freight needed regular tightening up and swayed like crazy even when new. The Black Widow with a Lock-Tite Anti-Rattle Hitch Pin is solid as a rock partially due to its simple rigid design.
The adjustability of the above one does look nice though. Cramming the bikes together on a shorter bar would increase departure angle which is a plus in town or on a rough road.

The Shop

5/30/2019 5:45pm Edited Date/Time 5/30/2019 5:47pm
I am pretty wary of the double carriers, because once you derate for the leverage ratio that the long carrier is exerting, you are well beyond the gross tongue weight ratings of 95% of vehicles.

The only scenario I would use one is with a pw50 or something in the rear position.
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Manco
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5/30/2019 5:48pm
zippytech wrote:
That's a lot of weight.. i want one for my 230l Honda but I just like to see one in person
Two bikes is a lot of weight. Not only does the hitch need to have a high tongue rating but the vehicle itself needs a heavy duty rear end. 3/4 ton and up vehicles are needed for 500lbs or more sitting on the rear end. The Black Widow bar I am sure could handle the load for hauling. Regardless though, wouldn't want to hit a drop off or something that suddenly put a lot of weight force on the bar, might bend it that way.

Single bikes on a hitch hauler aren't that much weight. 50lbs for the hauler and 250lbs for a dirt bike is only 300lbs on the hitch. Any 1/2 ton vehicle should handle it fine with a hitch rated for the weight. Helper springs or better yet coil over spring load sensitive shocks are a nice upgrade for the rear of a 1/2 ton vehicle that will haul often with a hitch hauler.
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Manco
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5/30/2019 5:54pm Edited Date/Time 5/30/2019 5:57pm
I have seen those. They look nice. My concern is at 120lbs they weigh twice as much as most haulers and at $750 they cost nearly three times as much as most others. I understand "You get what you pay for." Those seem a little excessive though. I have no doubt they are high quality, a little too high quality for me. I would rather spend $250-300 on a rack and beef it up welding a little steel here and there then pay three times as much. If I see one used I might consider one though. I would like to hear from someone that has used one to find out if they really are worth the extra coin.
Manco
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5/30/2019 6:35pm Edited Date/Time 5/30/2019 6:44pm
I am pretty wary of the double carriers, because once you derate for the leverage ratio that the long carrier is exerting, you are well beyond...
I am pretty wary of the double carriers, because once you derate for the leverage ratio that the long carrier is exerting, you are well beyond the gross tongue weight ratings of 95% of vehicles.

The only scenario I would use one is with a pw50 or something in the rear position.
I have been thinking about that. Even if a hitch can handle the downward load the leverage could twist the receiver hitch downwards. Trailers don't do this as they have the wheels keeping the trailer from leveraging downwards. One way to overcome the leverage with a hauler is to run straps from the far end of the hauler back up as high as possible on the vehicle to transfer some of that leverage away. I have seen setups like that on vans where the straps go up to eyelets on the roof or to a roof rack. My truck has a flatbed so I could do eyelets on the side with straps going down and back fairly easily. I could also reinforce the hitch on the back side to handle the leverage easy enough as well by tying it back into the frame or flatbed. All this being said I rocked an OEM Astro van class III hitch all over the place with a bike on it sometimes on quite rough roads in a hurry. I never bent anything, not a hauler nor the hitch. That includes times when the departure angle of the hauler wasn't enough and it dragged downwards onto dirt, rock and concrete. Class III and higher hitches are really strong especially the IV and V hitches.

With the leverage issue I have thought to skip on the two bike carrier and split the bikes between front and rear of the truck. Put the YZ on a hauler in the rear and the TTR125 on the front with another receiver hitch. I just don't want to mess with auxiliary headlights/turn signals if the front bike blocks the truck's lighting.

Before someone asks why am I messing with hitch haulers if I have a flatbed truck: I don't want to put bikes on the flatbed because its 4' off the ground so a hassle to get bikes onto and often I will have a camper on it when I haul the bikes anyway.
Potts
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5/30/2019 7:48pm Edited Date/Time 5/30/2019 7:50pm
http://www.joehauler.com/

These are first class and you can actually have them custom made for your own personal needs.
crusher773
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Coweta, OK US
5/30/2019 8:52pm
I had the black widow one for 5 plus years and never had an issue. I was using a 3/4 ton though. I did countersink a hole into the metal edge on my hitch that the middle bolt of the antisway could go into. This made the antisway where it would actually tighten down and made it much more sturdy. I would still have it now but just outgrew it needing more space. Hauled 2 big bikes numerous times all over the place.
RONJ OSE
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5/30/2019 9:06pm Edited Date/Time 5/30/2019 9:08pm
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs and bars boom there you go!
You bought a truck use it to haul shit, even a flat bed
I have never in 20 years of construction under stood a flat bed truck though

Seems like you just loose the ability to pile crap in your bed, but different strokes for different folks
Edit- read the end of post
If you have a camper how would you put a bike on the back hitch???
I say just slap them up there with a ramp cheep and easy
5/30/2019 10:48pm
Potts wrote:
http://www.joehauler.com/

These are first class and you can actually have them custom made for your own personal needs.
I had one of these and it was pretty heavy. But I will say it was built well and had no issues with it. Used it on the back of my 23’ motor home for a couple years....
Manco
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5/31/2019 8:35am
RONJ OSE wrote:
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs...
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs and bars boom there you go!
You bought a truck use it to haul shit, even a flat bed
I have never in 20 years of construction under stood a flat bed truck though

Seems like you just loose the ability to pile crap in your bed, but different strokes for different folks
Edit- read the end of post
If you have a camper how would you put a bike on the back hitch???
I say just slap them up there with a ramp cheep and easy
Its a truck bed camper that will be on the flatbed so there is no place for bikes. I don't want to mess with a trailer for a camper or the bikes for a variety of reasons otherwise I'd go that route. I hate loading bikes into a truck bed. Its a pain in the butt compared to a hitch hauler. I have been using hitch haulers for several years and won't go back to loading into a truck. I much prefer using a hitch hauler due to its low height, easy access and quick load/unloading characteristics even if I do have to put the hauler on and take it off as needed.

Its true what you say about flatbed. Most people will never need a flatbed. Those that do though really do though for a variety of reasons and task specific uses. Some of those reasons and uses for a flatbed include:
*More durable, dent and scratch resistant.
*Heavy duty platform allows more weight carrying capacity and makes for a sturdier rear truck frame.
*More square footage for more &/or larger items. 4 pallets can sit on a flatbed.
*Can be side loaded/unloaded easily including with a fork lift.
*Stronger attachment point for 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer.
*Headache rack protects rear of cab, offers a place to lash long items to that go over the cab and offers rollover protection.
*Added weight of flatbed offers a smoother ride when empty and no need for sand bags in the winter if in a snowy climate.

Personally I didn't choose my flatbed per say, it chose me. It came on a used truck I had to have as the truck had a rare combination of options I wanted. I was gonna get rid of the flatbed and swap back to pickup bed but decided it was too much hassle, would devalue the truck and I could do more with the flatbed then a pickup bed. My plan is to build tool boxes on each side for storage and create a pickup type bed to hold the camper. I will also add a tailgate that will work as a deck to step onto from the camper. When the camper is off with the toolboxes and tailgate the flatbed will have the convenience of a pickup bed and it will have storage that doesn't interfere with the 4'x8' loading area the tool boxes create. So my flatbed will end up as a heavy duty pickup bed with tailgate, storage and headache rack/roll bar when I am done with it.

RONJ OSE
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5/31/2019 3:18pm
RONJ OSE wrote:
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs...
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs and bars boom there you go!
You bought a truck use it to haul shit, even a flat bed
I have never in 20 years of construction under stood a flat bed truck though

Seems like you just loose the ability to pile crap in your bed, but different strokes for different folks
Edit- read the end of post
If you have a camper how would you put a bike on the back hitch???
I say just slap them up there with a ramp cheep and easy
Manco wrote:
Its a truck bed camper that will be on the flatbed so there is no place for bikes. I don't want to mess with a trailer...
Its a truck bed camper that will be on the flatbed so there is no place for bikes. I don't want to mess with a trailer for a camper or the bikes for a variety of reasons otherwise I'd go that route. I hate loading bikes into a truck bed. Its a pain in the butt compared to a hitch hauler. I have been using hitch haulers for several years and won't go back to loading into a truck. I much prefer using a hitch hauler due to its low height, easy access and quick load/unloading characteristics even if I do have to put the hauler on and take it off as needed.

Its true what you say about flatbed. Most people will never need a flatbed. Those that do though really do though for a variety of reasons and task specific uses. Some of those reasons and uses for a flatbed include:
*More durable, dent and scratch resistant.
*Heavy duty platform allows more weight carrying capacity and makes for a sturdier rear truck frame.
*More square footage for more &/or larger items. 4 pallets can sit on a flatbed.
*Can be side loaded/unloaded easily including with a fork lift.
*Stronger attachment point for 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer.
*Headache rack protects rear of cab, offers a place to lash long items to that go over the cab and offers rollover protection.
*Added weight of flatbed offers a smoother ride when empty and no need for sand bags in the winter if in a snowy climate.

Personally I didn't choose my flatbed per say, it chose me. It came on a used truck I had to have as the truck had a rare combination of options I wanted. I was gonna get rid of the flatbed and swap back to pickup bed but decided it was too much hassle, would devalue the truck and I could do more with the flatbed then a pickup bed. My plan is to build tool boxes on each side for storage and create a pickup type bed to hold the camper. I will also add a tailgate that will work as a deck to step onto from the camper. When the camper is off with the toolboxes and tailgate the flatbed will have the convenience of a pickup bed and it will have storage that doesn't interfere with the 4'x8' loading area the tool boxes create. So my flatbed will end up as a heavy duty pickup bed with tailgate, storage and headache rack/roll bar when I am done with it.

I understand now
I would have a fab shop build you a custom one to hold more weight and you could have them build it like a weight distributing hitch where you can have 2 Peices of angle iron into the side of flat bed

Also what truck did you buy ( just wondering)
Manco
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6/1/2019 5:54am
RONJ OSE wrote:
I understand now I would have a fab shop build you a custom one to hold more weight and you could have them build it like...
I understand now
I would have a fab shop build you a custom one to hold more weight and you could have them build it like a weight distributing hitch where you can have 2 Peices of angle iron into the side of flat bed

Also what truck did you buy ( just wondering)
The truck isn't anything super fancy. Its pretty fun though. Its a 1999 Ford F-250 XLT Super Duty Super Cab 4x4 with a V10, 5 speed manual. It has OEM F-350 rear suspension springs and 4" blocks which makes it an F-350 besides badges and door sticker. Those are the only three things which separated the 250 from 350 in those early years. While the options can be found scattered in other Super Dutys: most are either standard cab or quad cab, only some have V10s and very few have manual transmissions. To find a super cab w/ V10 4x4 with manual transmission is kind of tough. Nostalgia wise the truck is a first year Super Duty, first year V10 in a F series truck and it has from the factory royal blue with silver flake clear coat paint so its a true blue Ford. The only way the truck could be any cooler would be if it was a Lariat edition. It does have most of the Lariat options though so its close enough in my book. Fake wood trim in a Lariat won't make a truck any faster anyway. lol

The truck isn't all that old but it was a real barn find. I literally drove it out of a barn last weekend. Most of its life it was driven as a cowboy cadillac. Then it went to work on the ranch as a feed truck the past few years. It would only get driven 6 months out of the year. For those six months it would get driven daily in granny gear 4x4 low crawling through the field as someone tossed hay off the back. The truck is full of hay everywhere. When we test drove it my wife turned on the AC and it blew hay all over the cab. There is hay in the engine compartment and even hay growing in between the cab and flatbed right now.

I picked it up for a low price because the ranch owner thought the motor was "getting tired." It ran horrible when I got it. Being mostly original with 220,000 plus all the idling around trashed the emissions was the real issue. Long story short: new catalytic converter, oxygen sensors, air filter and MAF sensor and the truck runs like new again. It doesn't burn or leak a drop of oil that I've noticed.

Besides a few scratches, dings and filthy interior the truck is fairly straight. The interior fabric and seat foam is solid too. I picked it up to be a camping rig and off road toy so I am sure I will add some more wear and tear soon enough. Smile






Hay growing in between cab and flatbed.





Mossy
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6/1/2019 7:21am
Let’s see a picture of the interior with that 5 speed stick shift in the middle! Haha.

I’m looking for a truck right now. Looking to spend around $5,000, hard to find though man. So many beaten up trucks with 250k + miles and people want $6,000. I don’t quite get it.

I mean I’ve found a couple 80’s-90s Toyota’s some 4wd some 2wd for decent prices, but only on Craigslist because everyone uses Facebook marketplace now...

Right now I have a 2007 civic si and I just don’t want to tear up the inside of my daily driver with moto stuff towing a trailer with it...

Then I have my broke down 1981 k5 blazer...which is lifted with big tires and just impractical for moto unless I had to (that’s what I used when it was running.)

So I don’t really have many bills right now aside from normal living expenses/electricity/water and mortgage. I’m looking to get this 18 Rmz 450 for $5600 which will be around $100 a month then find a little Toyota pickup for $4000-$6000. And that’ll be around $130-$160 a month. Then I’m ready to have some fun Cool I was going to get a $13,000 Silverado but to be honest I don’t need that, don’t wanna look cool, and would rather have the extra money each month rather than be stuck with a high truck payment.

Sorry for the book I wrote lol, anyways have any advice on finding a decent deal on an “okay” truck? And would you recommend getting a truck with more than 160k miles? Obviously you did and it’s turning out fine. Cool
Manco
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6/1/2019 9:53am
Mossy wrote:
Let’s see a picture of the interior with that 5 speed stick shift in the middle! Haha. I’m looking for a truck right now. Looking to...
Let’s see a picture of the interior with that 5 speed stick shift in the middle! Haha.

I’m looking for a truck right now. Looking to spend around $5,000, hard to find though man. So many beaten up trucks with 250k + miles and people want $6,000. I don’t quite get it.

I mean I’ve found a couple 80’s-90s Toyota’s some 4wd some 2wd for decent prices, but only on Craigslist because everyone uses Facebook marketplace now...

Right now I have a 2007 civic si and I just don’t want to tear up the inside of my daily driver with moto stuff towing a trailer with it...

Then I have my broke down 1981 k5 blazer...which is lifted with big tires and just impractical for moto unless I had to (that’s what I used when it was running.)

So I don’t really have many bills right now aside from normal living expenses/electricity/water and mortgage. I’m looking to get this 18 Rmz 450 for $5600 which will be around $100 a month then find a little Toyota pickup for $4000-$6000. And that’ll be around $130-$160 a month. Then I’m ready to have some fun Cool I was going to get a $13,000 Silverado but to be honest I don’t need that, don’t wanna look cool, and would rather have the extra money each month rather than be stuck with a high truck payment.

Sorry for the book I wrote lol, anyways have any advice on finding a decent deal on an “okay” truck? And would you recommend getting a truck with more than 160k miles? Obviously you did and it’s turning out fine. Cool
I was just in the same boat. I wanted a Super Duty for around $5000. You are right. Most of the trucks in that price range are beat to crap work trucks. A lot of them had the motor and/or tranny replaced between 175-225 miles because they were beat on, bodies are trashed, interiors loo like wild animals had been living in them. When I had cash in hand I just did my best to wait until something decent came along. I think high miles trucks are ok if they've been maintained and and not beat on. Ford Triton V8 and V10 can 400,000 miles and good maintnace and servicing. Toyotas certainly can too. Look for trucks that were commuters or used lightly by a retired persons. Don't buy no "work truck." They are almost always the worst. If you see an ad that says something like, "Great work truck. Runs good. Ready to go to work and make you money." don't even bother looking at it. Its almost always gonna be a beat ass truck.

In my case I found an elderly man on a family ranch selling his granddaughter's first truck with 220,000 miles. She bought it with 140,000, drove it through high school, put a flatbed on it for fun and then drove it for college before it became the ranch feed truck some time after after 200,000. The truck is decent but the price was low due to it being dirty, running like crap and needing a clutch. It was also way out in Timbuku a long ways from a major city so that helped bring the price down as well. I picked it up for $3500. I think I will be around $1500 in to it with the cat. and clutch professionally installed and me doing the rest of the major tune up work. I will throw fresh tires and some misc fixes at it for a total of around $6000 for a truck I know is solid.

If you have the skills and space to do some work on vehicle it can save money. Look for something at a lower price that doesn't need major repairs. Make sure the engine and trans are ok. Look for something that needs "differed maintenance." Major tune up work, basic repairs, ect. Generally its all stuff you would probably end up doing anyway on most trucks. The key to this though is get a truck with a fairly straight body and good interior that way the money you put into it you will get back somewhat if you need to sell it. If a truck is ugly with a bad interior the price is always gonna be low on resale no matter how good it runs.

Here is that stick shift and the interior.





Manco
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Denver, CO US
6/16/2019 2:08pm Edited Date/Time 6/16/2019 2:23pm
RONJ OSE wrote:
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs...
Just an idea you have a truck as stated with a flat bed. Put the bikes on the flat bed, strap them down at the pegs and bars boom there you go!
You bought a truck use it to haul shit, even a flat bed
I have never in 20 years of construction under stood a flat bed truck though

Seems like you just loose the ability to pile crap in your bed, but different strokes for different folks
Edit- read the end of post
If you have a camper how would you put a bike on the back hitch???
I say just slap them up there with a ramp cheep and easy
You're gonna laugh when you read this after I pointed out the pluses of flatbeds above.

I got rid of the flatbed for being a heavy pig pain in the butt. It was just too much bed for daily driving, errands and weekend excursions. The final straw was having to strap three 2x4s down at Home Depot to bring them home rather then just tossing them in a bed. Also it was 500+ lbs pounds of extra weight I didn't want to deal with. I sold it and have a OEM long bed on hand to attach in its place.

Right now I am rocking a red neck OSB bed with plywood fenders and a Black Widow moto hitch hauler for a bumper with Harbor Freight trailer lights to keep things lit up and legal. I had a cop pull behind me on the way back from dropping off the flatbed. He passed me and kept on going so I think I am in the clear till I get the OEM bed on. LOL Smile





In the future I know I will wish I had the flatbed now and again. Loading and going with big loads doesn't get any easier. Two of us threw this OEM bed up with no fooling around. We just tipped it up on its end, backed under it, laid it down and slid it on.



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