Kx125 Splooge City (Oil)

Kelz87
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Kelz87
Edited Date/Time 3/18/2019 12:43am
Took the ‘05 out today and after riding for about an hour, there was oil coming from the power valve, and out the exhaust. It was on the engine, frame, swing arm and brake, and all over the fender, even my boot.

I run Castor 927 @40:1 and planned on rebuilding the top end by summer. I’ve never seen that much splooge from one ride, any advice?




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KDXGarage
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KDXGarage 3/11/2019 2:03am
3/11/2019 2:03am
Damn. That's bad.

Check the seal on the parts diagram.

Check the pipe to silencer junction also.
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ricko
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ricko 3/11/2019 4:59am
3/11/2019 4:59am
Mine does it but not nearly that bad, I run 32:1 Maxima Super M
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motogeeze
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motogeeze 3/11/2019 5:01am
3/11/2019 5:01am
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.
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davermz450
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davermz450 3/11/2019 5:45am
3/11/2019 5:45am
This is from my 2002 rm125 right after I bought it from a guy who left the stock jetting in it at 6000 feet elevation. I bought it, rejetted it and had splooge non stop all day. Its good now!

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crf250pilot
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crf250pilot 3/11/2019 7:23am
3/11/2019 7:23am Edited Date/Time 3/11/2019 7:25am
How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be working properly.
brocster
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brocster 3/11/2019 7:31am
3/11/2019 7:31am
Jetting
77Moto
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77Moto 3/11/2019 7:51am
3/11/2019 7:51am Edited Date/Time 3/11/2019 8:57am
motogeeze wrote:
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the...
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.
Before that, I'd dump the 927. If he's burning trans oil coming in from anywhere seals etc,(even center case) it will stink.
927 (even thought its only 20% castor) won't burn off unless you're a top pro or ride WFO conditions all the time.
Plus, castor for a casual just gums everything up.

The jetting is probably fine. It just needs to be ran WFO a bit to clean out.
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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 8:45am
3/11/2019 8:45am
crf250pilot wrote:
How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be working properly.
This was the first ride on it since repacking, so the packing was fresh. The old stuff was really bad but I thought the PO just didn’t maintain it
Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 8:47am
3/11/2019 8:47am
brocster wrote:
Jetting
I’m actually running a Lectron carb
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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 9:01am
3/11/2019 9:01am
motogeeze wrote:
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the...
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.
77Moto wrote:
Before that, I'd dump the 927. If he's burning trans oil coming in from anywhere seals etc,(even center case) it will stink. 927 (even thought its...
Before that, I'd dump the 927. If he's burning trans oil coming in from anywhere seals etc,(even center case) it will stink.
927 (even thought its only 20% castor) won't burn off unless you're a top pro or ride WFO conditions all the time.
Plus, castor for a casual just gums everything up.

The jetting is probably fine. It just needs to be ran WFO a bit to clean out.
What do you recommend running? I’ve read that 927 can gum stuff up before. At 40:1 I didn’t think it would be an issue tho. I’m using a Lectron btw
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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 9:09am
3/11/2019 9:09am
davermz450 wrote:
This is from my 2002 rm125 right after I bought it from a guy who left the stock jetting in it at 6000 feet elevation. I...
This is from my 2002 rm125 right after I bought it from a guy who left the stock jetting in it at 6000 feet elevation. I bought it, rejetted it and had splooge non stop all day. Its good now!

Damn, that whole swingarm was a different color! Lol
KDXGarage
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KDXGarage 3/11/2019 9:20am
3/11/2019 9:20am
motogeeze wrote:
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the...
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.
I doubt it is the "centercase gasket" since KX125's don't have them.

Check your transmission oil level.
Sir Roostsalot 3/11/2019 9:31am
3/11/2019 9:31am Edited Date/Time 3/11/2019 9:34am
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.
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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 9:49am
3/11/2019 9:49am
motogeeze wrote:
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the...
Crank seal on the primary side going bad.I'd replace the ignition side one also while I was at it.Could be the centercase gasket also if the seal doesnt fix the problem.
KDXGarage wrote:
I doubt it is the "centercase gasket" since KX125's don't have them.

Check your transmission oil level.
I changed the transmission oil after I got the bike, and measured it out according to the service manual. The old stuff was milky-gray.

The bike was def not maintained when I got it. When I took the skid plate off, it had a lot of dirt/oil buildup so this problem is apparently not new


Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 10:05am
3/11/2019 10:05am

77Moto
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77Moto 3/11/2019 10:08am
3/11/2019 10:08am
Milky-Grey-white = water. Change it and see if it happens again and watch the coolant level.

If it still does it water pump seal. Only a little water will turn it greyish. the more the whiter and milkier.


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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 11:11am
3/11/2019 11:11am
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem...
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.
Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you before?
Sir Roostsalot 3/11/2019 12:18pm
3/11/2019 12:18pm
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem...
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.
Kelz87 wrote:
Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you before?
Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It lives behind the black rubber boot above the water pump. Make sure you have all the C clips properly installed.
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Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 12:35pm
3/11/2019 12:35pm
77Moto wrote:
Milky-Grey-white = water. Change it and see if it happens again and watch the coolant level. If it still does it water pump seal. Only a...
Milky-Grey-white = water. Change it and see if it happens again and watch the coolant level.

If it still does it water pump seal. Only a little water will turn it greyish. the more the whiter and milkier.


Yeah, that’s what I was afraid of too. I changed the oil, took a lap around the neighborhood to heat up, then changed it again. The oil still looked good, and it shifts wayyy smoother now
Kelz87
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Kelz87 3/11/2019 12:42pm
3/11/2019 12:42pm
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem...
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.
Kelz87 wrote:
Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you before?
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It...
Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It lives behind the black rubber boot above the water pump. Make sure you have all the C clips properly installed.
I’ll definitely check that out. I’m not familiar with power valves honestly, I’ve never had one on a bike before. I wonder if that’s causing the powerband to be weak in first and second gear? Once I hit third, the power feels much crisper
scrallex
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scrallex 3/11/2019 1:25pm
3/11/2019 1:25pm
I know 40:1 is standard for most two strokes but you definitely can deviate from that if you are finding that a new power valve seal didn't fix the issue. I remember going from as rich as 28:1 on my 100 (the only thing we could do to stop taking cranks) to 40:1 on the KX125 before eventually settling at 44:1. We were fighting that issue along with some jetting issues as I transitioned to and started picking up speed on the 125. I'd take a look at your plug and make sure that it's on the darker side before trimming up the oil ratio. I'd also put some more time than just up and down the street before ruling out a water leak. Though a water issue is likely not the cause of what you're seeing on the case and swingarm, you will definitely want to look into that as your oil was indicative of a separate issue.

You can still have a perfectly tuned 125 that leaks a little bit of oil. Especially when the rider isn't WFO 24/7 and is building up the cases with oil and then dumping it on long straights. Get it close and stay on the throttle. As much as it pains a 4T acclimated rider, you have to stay on the redline to keep the motor cleared. My best advice is to spend a day at a track that you are super comfy on, get a gallon of unmixed gas, and do some testing with jetting and oil ratios (staying between 28:1 and 50:1). You can also try different premix. We never used Maxima, only the cheap stuff (GN2). Check your plug after every ride and stop only when you have minimal spitting and a nice dark brown plug. 125's are tricky but once you find what works with this bike you're only a small adjustment here and there to dial it in for each track.
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scrallex
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scrallex 3/11/2019 1:32pm
3/11/2019 1:32pm
Kelz87 wrote:
Thanks for providing a part number for that btw, I’ll look into it more when I get off of work. Has this happened to you before?
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It...
Several times, it can happen on any 2 stroke engine that uses an exhaust power valve thay is run by a governor on the crankshaft. It lives behind the black rubber boot above the water pump. Make sure you have all the C clips properly installed.
Kelz87 wrote:
I’ll definitely check that out. I’m not familiar with power valves honestly, I’ve never had one on a bike before. I wonder if that’s causing the...
I’ll definitely check that out. I’m not familiar with power valves honestly, I’ve never had one on a bike before. I wonder if that’s causing the powerband to be weak in first and second gear? Once I hit third, the power feels much crisper
I would take a look behind the cover plate of your KIPS valve. Take off the snap ring (don't lose it, that bitch will go flying real quick) and try and actuate the valve by hand. You can peer in through the exhaust port and see it move back in forth, choking the exhaust port when closed. Your issue sounds like jetting but could also be the valve stuck in one of the positions (likely closed if you're experiencing an issue in low gears (high-RPMs) that goes away when you get into a higher gear with lower RPMs).
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project racer 3/11/2019 2:59pm
3/11/2019 2:59pm
Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.
mwssquad827
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mwssquad827 3/11/2019 7:04pm
3/11/2019 7:04pm
crf250pilot wrote:
How old is silencer? Could be massively clogged up and may need repacked. Also, power valve may be gummed up and not be working properly.
Ya repack your silencer for sure!!!
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Sir Roostsalot 3/11/2019 7:07pm
3/11/2019 7:07pm
project racer wrote:
Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.
We're not discussing crank seals, its a seal on the RH side of the cylinder.
Boomslang 3/11/2019 8:54pm
3/11/2019 8:54pm
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
92049-1209
KIPS valve shaft oil seal
Sir Roostsalot wrote:
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem...
Kawasaki has an updated part#, no longer 92049-1209. Now use 92049-1238. Make sure the KIPS valve shaft is not damaged where the seal rides. This problem has nothing to do with cases, oil type, ratio, gear oil.
OP, listen to SirRoostalot. He 100% nailed your problem.
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KDXGarage
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KDXGarage 3/18/2019 12:05am
3/18/2019 12:05am
project racer wrote:
Engine has to come apart on most Kawasaki's for crank seal replacement.
Ha. No need to be vague. :-) It's a 2005 KX125. The right crank seal does not install from the inside.

OP, if the trasnsmission oil level keeps dropping, it is time for pressure and vacuum tests. The seal could be allowing transmission oil into the crankcase.

Get the KIPS sorted too, though!

Boomslang 3/18/2019 12:17am
3/18/2019 12:17am
KDXGarage wrote:
Ha. No need to be vague. :-) It's a 2005 KX125. The right crank seal does not install from the inside. OP, if the trasnsmission oil...
Ha. No need to be vague. :-) It's a 2005 KX125. The right crank seal does not install from the inside.

OP, if the trasnsmission oil level keeps dropping, it is time for pressure and vacuum tests. The seal could be allowing transmission oil into the crankcase.

Get the KIPS sorted too, though!

And the bike will be throwing out excessive white smoke.

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