Show us your 2017 crf450

hubbardmx50 wrote:

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was...

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was just wondering what intervals you guys were changing oil at? I hear you need to do it more now as opposed to the older bikes which held engine and gear oil separately. Just did it with about 5 and 1/2 hours of riding time and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks

hubbardmx50 wrote:

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was...

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was just wondering what intervals you guys were changing oil at? I hear you need to do it more now as opposed to the older bikes which held engine and gear oil separately. Just did it with about 5 and 1/2 hours of riding time and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks

GPrider wrote:

5 hours is about right, I use the gold bottle Honda oil blend in mine.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was...

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was just wondering what intervals you guys were changing oil at? I hear you need to do it more now as opposed to the older bikes which held engine and gear oil separately. Just did it with about 5 and 1/2 hours of riding time and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks

Bennett59 wrote:

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so...

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so any changes they did.

Myke wrote:

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/10/230809/s1200_20171209_093520.jpg[/img]

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya

Myke wrote:

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/10/230809/s1200_20171209_093520.jpg[/img]

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya

Idp57 wrote:

What you think about the WC Elite perch? I am thinking to try it out,since the stock one is a little bit stiff?

Bennett59 wrote:

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so...

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so any changes they did.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My front brake fades a little when I am doing a longer moto (not as bad as the orange helmets will tell you) but no issues...

My front brake fades a little when I am doing a longer moto (not as bad as the orange helmets will tell you) but no issues with rear. Maybe try playing with adjustment on your pedal? I find that adjustment very important and specific for each rider. I like to run mine super high up for some reason. My 15 shredded through the stock pads super quick for some reason, switched to some Braking brand pads and those lasted me the rest of the time I had the bike.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was...

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was just wondering what intervals you guys were changing oil at? I hear you need to do it more now as opposed to the older bikes which held engine and gear oil separately. Just did it with about 5 and 1/2 hours of riding time and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks

GPrider wrote:

5 hours is about right, I use the gold bottle Honda oil blend in mine.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was...

Hey guys, just picked up the last 2017 CRF450r at my local dealer. The bike is night and day better than my 2015 model. I was just wondering what intervals you guys were changing oil at? I hear you need to do it more now as opposed to the older bikes which held engine and gear oil separately. Just did it with about 5 and 1/2 hours of riding time and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks

GPrider wrote:

5 hours is about right, I use the gold bottle Honda oil blend in mine.

NeedMoto wrote:

Every 2-3 hours on mine. Oil filter every other ride. 40hrs, runs like a champ!

Bennett59 wrote:

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so...

Does anybody else have poor rear brakes? I notice my brakes will sometimes be really good or there terriable. Just curious if anyone and if so any changes they did.

Bennett59 wrote:

My front I’ve never had a problem, like tues went to Pala rode my first session no problem came in had some water and took about...

My front I’ve never had a problem, like tues went to Pala rode my first session no problem came in had some water and took about 20min break went back out and then almost no rear brake.

Bennett59 wrote:

My front I’ve never had a problem, like tues went to Pala rode my first session no problem came in had some water and took about...

My front I’ve never had a problem, like tues went to Pala rode my first session no problem came in had some water and took about 20min break went back out and then almost no rear brake.

jtiger12 wrote:

If this was happening to me, I would do the following. - check rear rotor run out by using a dial gauge on a stand -...

If this was happening to me, I would do the following.

- check rear rotor run out by using a dial gauge on a stand
- gravity or vacuum bleed the system thoroughly
- check all hoses and bolts at each contact point. Retorque the banjo bolts and bleeder
- thoroughly clean the pads and the rotor with brakecleaner
- zip tie the lever halfway for 24 hours or more. (It works on front brake levers)



All of those at little to no cost. If still no difference, change out the pads. On front brakes, I remember reading that you can detach the caliper from the fork, and hang it from the ceiling above the master cylinder.
Maybe this works for rear brakes too.

Myke wrote:

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/10/230809/s1200_20171209_093520.jpg[/img]

Figure I would try red anno rims and the stock hubs cerakoted thanks to dubya

dcg141 wrote:

Currently the clutches are slipping but can get it fix soon just waitin on parts [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/23/233742/s1200_00w0w_5ib22ZQcgAX_600x450.jpg[/img]

Currently the clutches are slipping but can get it fix soon just waitin on parts

revitout wrote:

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate...

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate into the disc. I do have one weird thing going on. Every time I have changed the oil I get at least 50mls more than I put in.

revitout wrote:

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate...

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate into the disc. I do have one weird thing going on. Every time I have changed the oil I get at least 50mls more than I put in.

Bennett59 wrote:

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot...

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot of strain on the motor

revitout wrote:

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate...

I put a rekluse in from new 20 hrs no issues. Rear brake pads down to steel in 12hrs, that pissed me off cause it ate into the disc. I do have one weird thing going on. Every time I have changed the oil I get at least 50mls more than I put in.

Bennett59 wrote:

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot...

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot of strain on the motor

NeedMoto wrote:

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny. My 17 CRF will...

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny.
My 17 CRF will likely get a full Hinson. I did put in the Hinson clutch pack, and it actually works good.

Bennett59 wrote:

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot...

Did you get normal Rekluse or a Torq Drive? I’m looking at Barnett’s Extra Fiber setup or Rekluse but I heard Torq drive puts a lot of strain on the motor

NeedMoto wrote:

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny. My 17 CRF will...

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny.
My 17 CRF will likely get a full Hinson. I did put in the Hinson clutch pack, and it actually works good.

Bennett59 wrote:

On the Hinson clutch pack for stock hub do you still have to run the judder spring setup

motoracer downunder wrote:

Well I have jumped ship ! I really did like the new honda but I had a gearbox go at 30 hrs Jumped on a 2nd...

Well I have jumped ship !
I really did like the new honda but I had a gearbox go at 30 hrs
Jumped on a 2nd fresh one and put 15 on it but now gone .
What I learnt in my time ....
The 17 without the battery is so much easier to put the air filter in and out.
Having the battery next to a filter is a right pain.
The Micro switch for the clutch is a waste of time and also makes pull a little stiffer.
The stock clutch is crap!
105 of sag was my sweet spot.
The 17 springs are to soft even for a 70kg vet around expert speed if you have the 17 go up a spring rate even if your not that fast or heavy the bike will handle even better .
Get the rubber killers for your clamps, I hate having to line it back up after a tip over .
The yoshimura system is great and with a remap and the back fire screen removed, twinair flameproof filter in
It rips .
Enjoy your honda people great bike . It still turns better then my new ride but I love my new motor and suspension
Super easy access to the air filter that stays cleaner and the slimmer feel and smart phone tuning of the blue crew
18 machine .

NeedMoto wrote:

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny. My 17 CRF will...

I heard the same thing from my engine builder, that the Rekluse Torque Drive puts a lot of strain on the motor/tranny.
My 17 CRF will likely get a full Hinson. I did put in the Hinson clutch pack, and it actually works good.

Bennett59 wrote:

On the Hinson clutch pack for stock hub do you still have to run the judder spring setup

NeedMoto wrote:

No, judder spring comes out.