Tech question

skip the oven and go striaght to the oxy/acetylene torch

For studs I generally heat the area around the area with a torch and unsrew the stud. I have also taken 2 nuts and thread them on. use the top one as alock nut to unscrew the stud.

Erik

[quote="Erik":241w1fni]For studs I generally heat the area around the area with a torch and unsrew the stud. [b:241w1fni]I have also taken 2 nuts and thread them on. use the top one as alock nut to unscrew the stud.[/b:241w1fni]
Erik[/quote:241w1fni]

+1 That works.

[quote="FreshTopEnd":1i2ftnz4]What's the technique for [i:1i2ftnz4]removing[/i:1i2ftnz4] studs from cases and cylinder heads? I have some older engine cases and a barrel I need to get the studs out of and they are pretty immune to grip and twist, and I don't want to force it. Do you pop them in the oven at 200 or so for a bit first?

Thanks for the help.[/quote:1i2ftnz4]


The double-nut technique should work:

For cylinder studs, put your wrench on first, then screw on a head nut upside down (with the flange facing up), then put on a washer, then put on another nut right-side-up. Tighten the two nuts against each other--very tight. Now you get unscrew the stud using the bottom nut.

Nice trick old tiddler, never used the washer between the nuts, but that should give more surface are to give a good clamp on the lock nut. The last time I had to do this was on CR250 and the it just wouldn't budge without a little heat to the area around the cylinder. Once i heated it up and spray some pentrating oil on there it came right out.

Erik

The washer allows the nut to bite into something besides the locking nut so it is less likely to just unscrew the nut.

Some WD40 maybe, but you normally shouldnt need to use heat unless the bike is old and rusted, or it's a Chinese model or something.

http://www.fenderscycle.com/eshopprod_c ... IVE_HE.htm

I've never used one though...

[img:2o4d1mip]https://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/471000001.jpg[/img:2o4d1mip]

[quote="Breck":20xid47v]http://www.fenderscycle.com/eshopprod_cat_3232-12950-29306_product_3955…

I've never used one though...[/quote:20xid47v]

I have used one, great tool. But also had spots that were to tight to fit it in so I just double nutted it .

[quote="BMSOB":3ty4o3ke][quote="Erik":3ty4o3ke]For studs I generally heat the area around the area with a torch and unsrew the stud. [b:3ty4o3ke]I have also taken 2 nuts and thread them on. use the top one as alock nut to unscrew the stud.[/b:3ty4o3ke]
Erik[/quote:3ty4o3ke]

+1 That works.[/quote:3ty4o3ke]

Never failed me in 35 yrs.

PB Blaster is the ticket.

[img:1yxjeu3m]http://www.ezgrip.net/pblasterb.jpg[/img:1yxjeu3m]

If you use the double-nut method and the top nut turns because the stud is stuck too much, you can screw both nuts down on the stud until the stud is sticking above the top nut, then hammer/peen the threads of the stud down so when you unscrew the nuts, the top nut hits the peened over threads and jams up. Obviously, this ruins the stud, but it always works.

[quote="Breck":3tk7lwzr]http://www.fenderscycle.com/eshopprod_cat_3232-12950-29306_product_3955…

I've never used one though...[/quote:3tk7lwzr]

I borrowed a set of these and it worked great for a badly oxidized cylinder stud on a YZ250.
[url:3tk7lwzr]http://content.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00990125000P?keyword=remov…]
They have more grip area than the (clever) tool above.

Just in case there is Loctite on the threads, a little heat helps. Blue lets loose under 200F , red just under 400F if my fading memory serves me correct. You've been asking way too many how too questions lately without any photos of what you are working on. I think you have a camera don't you?????

haha, we're visual and want an artistic touch to your problems.

[img:2q2ctla9]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/wildbill486/2008_02130013.jpg[/im…]

heat the area around the stud. take a candle and let some wax melt around the base of the stud. the wax will wick in between the stud and the aluminum and will come out pretty easily.

[quote="FreshTopEnd":2va15jlo]"I just want to say I'm super pumped! My Napa stud extractor really hooked up, and the P B'laster got things loose like a double dose of ex-lax."[/quote:2va15jlo]


LMAO! Great stuff Michael!!

MR

hello...this is MOTODRIVE...not TECH DRIVE. Everyone here who provided an actual useful response should ban themselves from further use of MD.

You guys missed one. I worked in a bike shop doing those for years, and the boss didn't like me playing with the oxy torch (I'm a pyro).

You put the double nut on the stud, then hit the stud square with a hammer to loosen it. Be careful to put the top nut on so you hit it with the hammer instead of the stud. If you just try and use the double nut to get extra torque on the stud without breaking it with impact, you can break or strip it easy.

This always works. AKA known as "The Alabama Method."

I use a brass hammer.

Then again FTE as a lawyer you should nick a finger trying to get the stud out then sue the bike company for not having warning stickers about stud removal and just buy a new bike when you settle.

[quote="Racer92":1mnczts5]I use a brass hammer.[/quote:1mnczts5]

I got one too! For that and hammering on cranks and bearings when you aren't supposed to. " title="Smile">