more lowend on tc125?

jefbrown
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jefbrown
Edited Date/Time 10/22/2015 10:32am
I just got rid of my 2014 kx250f and got a 2014 tc 125 i ride trails up by the red river and want more low end with out taking away and top end power any suggestions?
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DP#201
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DP#201 10/20/2015 12:45pm
10/20/2015 12:45pm
jefbrown wrote:
I just got rid of my 2014 kx250f and got a 2014 tc 125 i ride trails up by the red river and want more low...
I just got rid of my 2014 kx250f and got a 2014 tc 125 i ride trails up by the red river and want more low end with out taking away and top end power any suggestions?
V-Force or Boyesen power reeds should do someting notable.
colintrax
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colintrax 10/20/2015 12:46pm
10/20/2015 12:46pm
Make it a 150.
Other than that; make sure your jetting is spot on, squish is good, packing fresh, air filter clean, and spark plug is fresh.
Silliker269
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Silliker269 10/20/2015 2:19pm
10/20/2015 2:19pm
flywheel weight maybe ?
USMCMXer
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USMCMXer 10/20/2015 2:45pm
10/20/2015 2:45pm
Gear it down, i.e. go up two teeth on rr sprocket...

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USMCMXer
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USMCMXer 10/20/2015 2:46pm
10/20/2015 2:46pm
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
lumpy790
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lumpy790 10/20/2015 2:58pm
10/20/2015 2:58pm
My advise? Learn to feed the clutch.
deltadestroyer11 10/20/2015 3:12pm
10/20/2015 3:12pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Gear it down, i.e. go up two teeth on rr sprocket...
This^
Gear it down atleast two teeth. Heck if you really want a peppy lowend gear it down three teeth.
125'a have enough topend you'll barely notice any small loss in topend ..I rode a friend's sons very 85that had three teeth lower gearing and iI couldn't hardley keep the front end down.. it was a little torque monster...it was awesome.
SwapperMX
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SwapperMX 10/20/2015 6:27pm
10/20/2015 6:27pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Gear it down, i.e. go up two teeth on rr sprocket...
Spot on, need to bring in 3rd gear sooner !!
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bsharkey 10/20/2015 6:47pm
10/20/2015 6:47pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Gear it down, i.e. go up two teeth on rr sprocket...
bingo
The Rock
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The Rock 10/21/2015 12:39am
10/21/2015 12:39am
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either.

Paging tuned length to the white courtesy phone.
JMX82
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JMX82 10/21/2015 2:40am
10/21/2015 2:40am Edited Date/Time 10/21/2015 2:41am
Try adjust the power valve for more low end power. These instructions are quite old but the engine is basically same KTM engine with small updates: KTM/Husqvarna power valve adjustment

hillbilly
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hillbilly 10/21/2015 6:38am
10/21/2015 6:38am
Adding teeth to the rear or "gearing it down" just makes the gears shorter and shifting more. 3 teeth will probably make the gears overlap meaning when you hit max rpm in 2nd and shift to 3rd the rpms dont drop to the bottom of the power curve.

Buy a compression tester at sears or autoparts store ,screw it in plug hole but leave the sparkplug in the boot and let it lay on the head so it will be grounded and make its spark so not to overload the ignition,this or hold the kill button down.

Now hold the throttle wide open and kick the starter till the gauge stops rising. On a 125 you should be around 200 psi.

I bet it is going to be in the 150 psi range. The tc probably has a selection of base gaskets,go with the thinnest to get compression up as much as possible that way.

If it is still low the head can be milled to raise it. This is a little technical because the squish band needs to be reshaped so the firing charge is centered over the middle of the piston.

A 125 will loss topend rpm if the compression is taken really high so mill in increments till the best is reached,if you go to far the combustion dome can be milled some to lessen compression and keep the squishband correct.

By the way,what octane fuel are you using now?

Use the l lowest octane you can and not have the bike ping or preignite.

Race fuel in a stock,low compression engine will make the lowend soft.

I should have asked about fuel octane first
endurox
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endurox 10/21/2015 7:46am
10/21/2015 7:46am
colintrax wrote:
Make it a 150. Other than that; make sure your jetting is spot on, squish is good, packing fresh, air filter clean, and spark plug is...
Make it a 150.
Other than that; make sure your jetting is spot on, squish is good, packing fresh, air filter clean, and spark plug is fresh.
ditto on the 144. Send to Eric Gore. He can put a 4mm oversize piston in to give you a 144 bike and port accordingly.
USMCMXer
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USMCMXer 10/21/2015 9:04am
10/21/2015 9:04am
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
The Rock wrote:
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either. Paging tuned length to...
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either.

Paging tuned length to the white courtesy phone.
Yep,

You ever see guys run longer silencers in SX? Long silencers are at home in the great outdoors and the shortys for the bottom end, snappiness. Tried and true testing on my former YZ-250 2t's made this real evident. They don't rev out nearly as far with a shorty. If you wanna do a quick redneck check (no offense, to those crimson anatomy'd folk), take your silencer off and see how much low end you have Wink kidding, don't! Gotta love the people that do that or have no packing, etc and equate noise to power. More noise, surely guarantees less power in those instances...
CLT809
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CLT809 10/21/2015 9:08am
10/21/2015 9:08am
I'm guessing not many responses are from husky/ktm 125 owners. There is something you can do on these bikes totally free. They have an adjustable powervalve. To take advantage of this, remove the big shiny aluminum nut in front of the clutch cover, and loosen up the 8mm bolt that is at about 4 o'clock on that big shiny nut. This reveals a threaded piece the nut sits on that has two flats to put a wrench on. Now go to the other side and take off the cover to the power valve that is on the left side of the cylinder. Behind it you will find two pieces with marks on them. The left one will have two stationary horizontal marks and the right will have one. By turning the piece you uncovered on the other side, you will raise or lower the mark on the other side of the engine. To get more bottom end, adjust it so the mark is further up, and if you want it to rev forever, align it with the bottom mark. Don't forget to tighten the 8mm bolt on the clutch side when you are done, it locks the power valve timing in place.
colintrax
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colintrax 10/21/2015 9:16am
10/21/2015 9:16am
CLT809 wrote:
I'm guessing not many responses are from husky/ktm 125 owners. There is something you can do on these bikes totally free. They have an adjustable powervalve...
I'm guessing not many responses are from husky/ktm 125 owners. There is something you can do on these bikes totally free. They have an adjustable powervalve. To take advantage of this, remove the big shiny aluminum nut in front of the clutch cover, and loosen up the 8mm bolt that is at about 4 o'clock on that big shiny nut. This reveals a threaded piece the nut sits on that has two flats to put a wrench on. Now go to the other side and take off the cover to the power valve that is on the left side of the cylinder. Behind it you will find two pieces with marks on them. The left one will have two stationary horizontal marks and the right will have one. By turning the piece you uncovered on the other side, you will raise or lower the mark on the other side of the engine. To get more bottom end, adjust it so the mark is further up, and if you want it to rev forever, align it with the bottom mark. Don't forget to tighten the 8mm bolt on the clutch side when you are done, it locks the power valve timing in place.
I have a KTM, mine came from the factory for bottom end. Asked my dad and he said he thinks all the 125/150 bikes come set like that. So OP's bike is probably already at the top.
I've played around with the valve but honestly I think the factory setting is best.

Everyone saying to gear down... You're just wrong. These bikes are geared short enough as it is, a bigger rear sprocket is gonna make the gears too short as someone else said.
CLT809
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CLT809 10/21/2015 9:22am
10/21/2015 9:22am
colintrax wrote:
I have a KTM, mine came from the factory for bottom end. Asked my dad and he said he thinks all the 125/150 bikes come set...
I have a KTM, mine came from the factory for bottom end. Asked my dad and he said he thinks all the 125/150 bikes come set like that. So OP's bike is probably already at the top.
I've played around with the valve but honestly I think the factory setting is best.

Everyone saying to gear down... You're just wrong. These bikes are geared short enough as it is, a bigger rear sprocket is gonna make the gears too short as someone else said.
I'll take your word for them being set up for bottom end from the factory, mine was used and was right in the middle when I got it.

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jefbrown
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jefbrown 10/21/2015 12:54pm
10/21/2015 12:54pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
i already have a fmf factory fatty with a shorty
USMCMXer
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USMCMXer 10/21/2015 1:22pm
10/21/2015 1:22pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
jefbrown wrote:
i already have a fmf factory fatty with a shorty
if that's the case, then I'm with Slipdog, you need some compression. Is it really weak on the bottom or just the std difference in torque from the 4t that you're used to? A lot of ways to gain low end, but these little bikes were made to be ridden with some momentum and that problem compounds itself the bigger you are. Good luck in your quest, as it may just be that you need to grow accustomed to your new 2t following your switch, as the riding style will be a little different, strictly based on how the two differ in power delivery?
brimx153
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brimx153 10/21/2015 2:29pm
10/21/2015 2:29pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
The Rock wrote:
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either. Paging tuned length to...
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either.

Paging tuned length to the white courtesy phone.
x2 ,i really think u have it backwards , longer for more bottom end . look at all the enduro bike s. the silencer is as long as a 4 stroke . to get more bottom end
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endurox 10/21/2015 3:02pm
10/21/2015 3:02pm
thinner base gasket to lower transfer ports, advance timing a bit.
USMCMXer
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USMCMXer 10/21/2015 3:44pm
10/21/2015 3:44pm
brimx153 wrote:
x2 ,i really think u have it backwards , longer for more bottom end . look at all the enduro bike s. the silencer is as...
x2 ,i really think u have it backwards , longer for more bottom end . look at all the enduro bike s. the silencer is as long as a 4 stroke . to get more bottom end
Ummm, apples and oranges, brimx153. Those are longer for noise and spark arrestors. Rather than speculate, or argue with me, just call an exhaust company. Also, just because a bike is used in enduro, doesn't mean they don't use top-end power. Bottom, mid and top-end are about RPM, not MPH.
DTHA70
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DTHA70 10/21/2015 5:02pm
10/21/2015 5:02pm
power vs pipe length is a direct correlation on two strokes, inverse correlation on four strokes. shorter tuned length and shorter pulse width and scavenge time = more snap and less top end pull on a two stroke. back pressure, larger, more condensed scavengeable gas= more top end. tuned length doesn't have as much an effect as the ability for the silencer and tail end of the pipe to stop gasses in their tracks during the scavenge pulse(pulling fuel and air back out of the first section of the pipe) youll notice "bottom end" pipes and silencers are smooth, fat stingers and short silencers because they limit the back flow(scavenging) by evacuating the entire volume on the exhaust stroke. porting and port timing also play a huge part but that's a lesson for another day.
endurox
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endurox 10/21/2015 8:46pm
10/21/2015 8:46pm
USMCMXer wrote:
Also a shorty silencer makes more low-end and a longer silencer is better for longer top-end pull...
The Rock wrote:
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either. Paging tuned length to...
You sure about that kemosabe? I believe you have it bass ackwards but I still haven't recovered from the MEC yet either.

Paging tuned length to the white courtesy phone.
USMCMXer wrote:
Yep, You ever see guys run longer silencers in SX? Long silencers are at home in the great outdoors and the shortys for the bottom end...
Yep,

You ever see guys run longer silencers in SX? Long silencers are at home in the great outdoors and the shortys for the bottom end, snappiness. Tried and true testing on my former YZ-250 2t's made this real evident. They don't rev out nearly as far with a shorty. If you wanna do a quick redneck check (no offense, to those crimson anatomy'd folk), take your silencer off and see how much low end you have Wink kidding, don't! Gotta love the people that do that or have no packing, etc and equate noise to power. More noise, surely guarantees less power in those instances...
like 95% of the costume v twin crowd.
HenryA
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HenryA 10/22/2015 3:08am
10/22/2015 3:08am
144 kit is the way to go.
JMX82
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JMX82 10/22/2015 5:00am
10/22/2015 5:00am
I think 144 KTM motor does not give lot power gains to low end power and you need to change crankshaft with the cylinder because 144 (150) engine has a longer stroke.

One more easy thing to do is to disconnect grey wire under the thank. This will give you mellower ignition curve and engine is little easier to ride. I would also try heavier flywheel from enduro model.
hillbilly
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hillbilly 10/22/2015 10:28am
10/22/2015 10:28am
Using high octane race fuel in a stock low compression engine is a waste and will make low bottom and slow revs.

This is why you need to check compression psi.

The most power will come from 87 octane fuel up to the point the compression makes it pre ignite.
hillbilly
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hillbilly 10/22/2015 10:32am
10/22/2015 10:32am
And, you dont want a 2str to idle more than 3 to 5 secs.

If you set one to sit and idle it is to lean ,makes the initial hit of low rpm soft.

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