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Check for a broken or worn out reed.
Check for transmission oil being sucked in through the primary drive seal.
Get your jetting right.
What oil are you running? Go to a lower flash point oil. You can find that info on the makers web site. The MSDS has that info if they don't provide it on the site.
If you have an oil that is designed to run at 50:1 then run it at 50:1. Don't try to run high ratio oils at lower ratios. If you want to run a lower ratio then get an oil that is compatible with the ratio you want to run.
If you are using a "9" series plug go to an "8" series heat range. I know a lot of weekend trail riders that try to run "9" in their 125's out plunking around on trails and have a lot of spooge. They ride at very low rpm and don't generate enough heat to burn off the oil.
That's what spooge comes down to. Your jetting, oil, motor condition or riding style is not allowing the motor to develop enough heat to burn off the oil. The oil vapors tend to condense in the thin walled, cooler running pipe and collect there.
When you get hard on the gas and wring it out for a bit, that oil is blown out of the pipe. Then you have spooge.
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You have a throtel issue and the root of it stems from you vergina.
Reality check; Even at those extreme conditions what you are per posing still brings it down to combustion / exhaust temperatures. Throttle position has a huge effect on exhaust gas temperature.
Order a new piston and rings wiseco or OEM your choice. Look at your sparkplug see what plug heat range is compared to what OEM calls for. Try to run the same heat plug as stock. Take note of your mods to bike reeds and expansion chamber can all affect jetting. Get new orings for the expansion chamber where it connects to motor. You could even get new pipe springs if the old ones look bad. Get a new exhaust collar the rubber tends to go bad after awhile and can cause leaks.
I have not experimented with different premixes, but some people have said trying a different premix can help a lot such as Motul 710 2T I'm told. I'm not sure if it is related to flash point or not some oils are designed for racing in mind like Motul 800 so if you dont get the engine hot enough it wont burn it all. Your best bet would be a 100% synthetic premix they burn the cleanest. My bike is currently running Castor 927 @ 32:1 on highest pump gas I can find (Has ethanol in it) and I barely have any spooge just a tiny bit on the end of the pipe. The bike revs clean throughout the entire RPM range. I've had to drop 2 main jet sizes, 1 pilot size, and raise the clip 2 positions over the stock. I have a different needle it's one step leaner very slight difference might be a half step. I had a 340 main on my bike at start of season and the bike just would not rev out on top. Down low it was great, but you could still hear some sputtering at lower throttle openings (i.e rich). I dropped the main to 330 and moved the clip up 2 positions and it was perfect! The bike revs right to the top and the sputtering down low is gone. The bike takes a little longer to warm up than before when it was rich you could pull off much earlier. I barely have any spooge just a little drop at the end of the silencer. My only mods are boyesen power reeds and FMF fatty/shorty combo.
When properly jetting the bike you want everything to be fresh or you are just wasting your time. Also remember it is a race bike so it is meant to be rode harder and higher in the rpms.
32:1 would be fine for a 125 unless the oil manufacturer calls for different ratios I would not go leaner than 40:1 on a 125.
Another tip is to plug exhaust with papertowel/muffler plugs when you wash so you dont get water in packing can make more of a mess also.
Most likely parts on you bike are worn and the jetting is too rich for your riding. Hope this helps.
couple of items.
The motor was just rebuilt. New seals, bearings, gaskets, piston, etc. only a couple hours on the new piston and rings. compression is good. The power valve checks out good - I inspected it. No problems. My main and pilot jets are changed from factory specs to the next leaner sizes.
Here is what I am going to do for now:
I am switching to a new oil with a lower flash point. I am switching to a hotter plug. I am replacing the entire old factory reed cage and valves with a new VForce3 Reed. I am replacing the silencer packing. And that's it for now. If I still get excessive spooge and poor low/mid range performance I'll play around more with the jets and needle and mixture screw. That's about all I can do with the exception of replacing the Mikuni TMX flat slide carb with a new aftermarket better carb, which is what another guy on the forum told me to do.
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-motocross-offroad/1722…
You dont have to do exactly what the guy does but it helped me. I did not do plug chop tests I just rode around the track after the bike was warmed up at different throttle openings and listened to the motor. At constant lower throttle openings if you hear sputtering the bike is too rich. You can fix this by raising the clip 1 position (dropping the needle leaning it out). Also the the article tells you if you are too many or too little turns on the air screw you may need a different pilot size. My bike originally had an 8 plug in it (hotter) than the stock 9. I put back the 9 plug in and it ran great. People recommend not changing the plug range since that is really just covering up the jetting. I believe this is more of a trick for woods riders who are putting around. Another thing you can do is get a leaner needle. On my YZ I went with the 6BEG9-70 over the stock (6BEG9-69 richer) the only thing different is the diameter of the needle the tapers are still the same. I looked up the OEM parts for your CR125 and there is quite a bit more optional needles and jets than for my YZ. I never messed with the slide or main nozzle on my bike. Just the air screw, pilot, needle, clip position, idle screw, and main jet.
The fact that you are having issues with low-mid means the jetting is off the bike should still be responsive at all RPM ranges when jetted properly. The only problem with excess spooge is it makes a mess and you will have to repack silencer more often. When it comes to jetting you just gotta mess around with it, it all depends on how perfect you want it the more time you spend the better you can get it dialed in.
The post by underground should be a good base line for you to start at.
hey guys and girls. So I went riding today and I have an "spooge update" (don't laugh)
1) changed to lower Flash Point 2-cycle oil (Lucas)
2) changed to a hotter plug (#8 instead of #9)
3) installed new Reed Valve (VForce) just because I had a gift card to Amazon
4) repacked the silencer
RESULTS: NO MORE SPOOGE. Thanks to Mr. Robinson and all you other guys that helped me out. I now believe that for whatever reason the oil I was running and the plug I was running (factory spec) was not creating hot enough combustion chamber temps to burn off all the oil. I believe the first 2 items above corrected the problem.
Fixed
like you said - time will tell............
Pit Row
Now, keep an eye on that "8" series plug. If it looks normal after a normal days riding, then you should be fine. If it should look too lean, go back to the "9" series. If you get to the point where you are on the pipe all the time, then you'll need to go back, for sure.
I just pulled a YZ125 apart that I had the guy switch to an "8" after he fouled his first plug, and the motor looks great. He's a very good "B" rider that mainly rides off road / woods stuff and you would never know by looking that he was running a hotter plug for the past two years.
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