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I wouldn't "not trust" the battery, I'd simply learn how to get the most of it. There's no need to have a second battery, unless you want to.
Shane
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Also when riding at one point the bike lost power like it was running out of gas. I thought it wouldn't make it off the track. I pulled off and then started it back up. It seemed to be running fine. I went back and checked it over, made sure the battery connection was good. I couldn't find anything and it ran fine the next moto. Weird. Any ideas?
* Your bike comes on the standard map number 3 on the ECU map switch under the seat in your air box and for some stupid reason launch control is deactivated when it's on number 3 so you have to choose either number 1 which is the mild mode or number 2 which is the advanced or aggressive mode. I chose number 2. Once you've set it to either 1 or 2 the launch control is now active.
* So then you when you want to test it out you only have to move the handlebar switch from position 2 to 1 and back to 2 and then the FI light on the top triple clamp will start blinking fast and now you're in launch mode. You have 3 mins to launch or it reverts back to normal mode. I made the mistake on race day of blipping the throttle on my first 2 starts and the light went out and I couldn't figure out why. One my last 2 motos I didn't set it the guy the 30 sec card went up and I didn't touch the throttle until the card went sideways and I then held it probably 3/4 throttle and I knew it was working because the engine was warbling and the FI light was blinking fast still. I got a 2nd place start in that moto and a holeshot in my 4th moto of the day.
* I hate the fact that you can't use it when you're the standard mode (number 3 in the air box) and I really hate the fact that the handlebar switch is mounted on the throttle side on the brake reservoir because it's under both throttle cables and it isn't the easiest switch to move when you have easy access to it never mind that it's under your both cables which really makes it a pain in the ass to get to. I tried to move the switch after practice but there's not enough wire to do it so I did it at home. You need to take tank off and drain your coolant because the wire is under the top radiator hose on the throttle side of the bike. You need to totally move the wire from where it's routed on the throttle side of the frame over to the clutch side of the frame and then it will reach the clutch perch. It took a good 45 mins to do but in the end it will be well worth it (to me at least). Sorry for the blurry pic of the selector under the seat but it's the only I had in my phone. If anyone has any questions feel free to call me 508 243 1232
Pit Row
If I understand correctly, 3 is STD, 1 is Mild and 2 is Advanced/aggressive - what is 4 thru 9 for? Placebo's?
Edit: looking at digger's pics. Exactly the same switch as the 690 enduro. I think they found them somewhere and bought a huge bulk of it, instead of designing their own switches.
http://www.pointviewcycle.com/2015-ktm-450-sx-f-factory-edition-invento…
I'm assuming that when you select the dial map, corresponds to map 2 on the bar, so it could be aggressive or standard, your choice based on the dial. I assume map 1 on the bar is always standard map, no matter what...
Digger, I think the reason yours get deactivated because it says, if you open the throttle and close it by more then 1/3 it will turn off.. To reactivate, you need to turn off the bike for 10 seconds.
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