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The '04 clamps are a direct bolt on and you are correct that the steering stops are in the right location.
I used the clamps off of an '09 250f and swapped the stem from my '03 clamps. The steering stops do contact the stop on the frame, but in a hard crash I'm sure they will push past it. The 450f clamps do have the longer stem and are a direct bolt on. You can also use the '10-'13 450f clamps which have a 22mm offset vs the 25mm on the 2 stroke. The top clamp has to be bored 2mm to fit the older SSS forks though.
You can use the '03 caliper you just need the caliper bracket from the newer model to bolt it to the forks.
You do have to use the newer axle and spacers do to the '03 axle being longer.
The forks from a 450f are the same length as the '03, but I used the 250f forks and I can't notice the difference in length.
Hope that helps
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In particular the shifter detent bearing. Yamaha lists it as the stopper lever assembly.
Part # 5CU-18140-01-00
This is the bearing that sits behind the clutch and pushes in and out against the shift drum as you go up/down. The problem is the original design. Its two open faced bearings sharing a common shaft that pushes in and out, and oscillates up and down. This completely stupid design creates wear on the races and they eventually flare and open out on the internal side of the case. This drops about 6-8 steel ball bearings inside the transmission and will literally destroy both cases and your entire transmission in a matter of seconds. You HAVE to shut down IMMEDIATELY as soon as you hear the slightest chatter.
On the YZ125 the design was changed a couple of years ago to solid steel wheels. However it didnt change on the YZ250. From what I've been told they finally updated the design on the '15 YZ250. The MSRP on this part is $30. Buy it and change it as soon as you buy the bike. This part will fail. Ive had this same part fail on both my different YZ125's, and about 30 hours in to my '13 YZ250. I'm one of those guys that changes his oil after every ride too, so maintenance is not an issue.
The stock airbox is a total POS. It will crack, it will split. Its happened on all my YZ's. Just keep an eye on it. Also the airbox doesnt seal that well, so make sure your air filter seats correctly on the base when you do your air filters. Ive had a lot of friends YZ's with the airboots covered in dirt from this issue. Not good when your carb is sucking dirt in.
Suspension wise the everyone says how 'stiff' the aluminum frame feels and can't get it plush like the steel frames. I disagree. My aluminum frame YZ's can feel just as plush as the steel frames. Its all in the setup. A little track I've noticed that helps calm the bike down is the high speed adjustment on the shock. Even for full moto, back it off. Its 2 3/4 turns lock to lock. Back it all the way out, then go in 1/2 turn and see how that feels. Gradually work back in until it feels 'harsh' through the frame. Then play with rebound and compression. Ive raced YZ's pretty much my whole life, I love them, they're a great bike. Hold out for a '09 or later IMO though, there are subtle changes after '08 that I really like compared to the 06-08.
She's in incredible shape and I picked it up for the absurd price of $1,300!!! He wanted $1,600 and I told him I only had 1300 ....its a score! It also came with a step stand, has RG3 suspension, a PC shorty (to replace the PC spark arrestor)
Its gonna need a new rear tire, front and rear fenders, a white number plate, throttle cable (my preference) annnnd .....that covers it for now until I start putting the "goodies" on it
Tusk 270mm oversized front brake rotor
V-Force or Boyesen Reed valve assembly.....Thoughts or Opinions on either???
New PC Pipe
KYB "SSS" Suspension Swap
SDG Tall Seat
The "5XC-" super wide and stout footpegs that come on the late model WR's
Works Connection Frame Guards
New Rims - Not sure on the color Either Silver or Black..... Leaning towards silver bec the balck ones get hammered quickly
Factory Yamaha Style Graphics from around that time period
Am I missing anything else for those that know this bike well?
Have you got tall seats on your other rides? I found it affected my cornering quite a bit.
I have had them on a few bikes and im not sure if it affect my cornering BUY i am 6'4" so its kind of necessary for me. It doesnt need to be extremely tall but since im so used to them when I sit on a normal seat I feel like Im sitting in a saddle.
Either way it does need a new seat, im thinking he got scared of it because he looped it out which is evident from the back of the seat cover lol
Curious about the V-Force vs the Boyesen, I had a V-Force on the RM and it was a ripper but I really dont know the differences between the two with regards to performance and power characteristics....do you have any input Underground??
V-Force is the way to go on the YZs. PC pipe and silencer. Squish and deck head...
I'm 6'6" and a bit... kept my KTM stock in terms of seat, flat bars, with risers in forward position and then lowboy pegs. It's actually pretty roomy! Ys you sit in a bit more tho...
I had a boyesen in my 300, changed to v-force. Preferred V-force especially with pipe etc...
Pit Row
I have the stock reed cage on my 250. Haven't tried aftermarket but I did try a V-force on my YZ125 and it constantly leaked. Haven't heard of people having this prob on the 250 but I would say keep an eye on it and seal it good with Moto-seal or other gas-proof sealant.
On the shift stopper, it is a pretty common prob for it to come apart on the 125, but doesn't seem as common on the 250 for some reason. I just checked the part number and the 2015 YZ250 has the same part number as previous years.
Why a new PC pipe? Isn't that a PC pipe on it? Just remove the black paint.
Not sure if the 2006+ seat fits on the 2003 but if it does, it is slightly taller, flatter front to rear, and has a more rounded profile side to side. Doesn't feel as sway back as the older bikes.
Other threads on Yamaha footpegs: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/791880-yamaha-oem-foot-pegs-peg-loweri… http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/747661-wider-and-lower-foot-peg-diy/
As for the shift stopper, well yamaha didnt change the part number on the 125 either. Then magically it starting coming out as solid steel wheels instead of the bearing type. Ive spent hours on the phone with yamaha directly, and even showed them the photo's of the same parts failing over and over in different bikes. Typical corporate response of its not an issue we're aware of, there is no service bulletin, and no recall on the part. It must be something you're doing sir. Give me a break.
That happened on my 2013 YZ250 with just over 30 hours on it. Ordered a new one, and the replacement part was still the bearing design. The 125 has solid steel wheels. I'd have to order another one to see if the part has actually changed on the 250. In the meantime I replace this part about 20 hours.
Perhaps they have done this with the 2015 YZ250 part and that is why the parts diagrams for the older bikes show the same number. I hope so. You've got me scared now and I want a solid wheel version in my 250 ! Let us know what you get if you order one.
Lightning78
I put a GYTR off-road flywheel on my '13 over the weekend and rode a friends track. Let me tell you I'm definitely going to put one on my '03 as well! Its amazing how linear the power is now. I had the head mod done on the '13 at the beginning of this season. (squish set to .044", chambered for race fuel) that made a word of difference, and it pulls really hard. Almost to hard because I was having trouble getting traction in tight corners. Now with the flywheel it is putting the power to the ground. It helped my corner speed without a doubt.
Rg3 top clamp
Complete oem seat new
Used pc shorty silencer
Universal eng top triple clamp (was on my 2002)
New oem rear fender and front plate
YamiRY239 .... Im coming off an 06 RM250 (dont ask) im bummed about it, I will consider a FWW now that I think about what you said and the RM has basically an identical engine to the YZ hell even their pistons are interchangeable lol... and that bike had (stock)( a flywheel much lighter than the YZ so I was going to add 6-9oz bec I really like the lightning (pun intended) lol snap power of the RM but it just needed to be tamed down a little as it would rev out SO FAST that I had to shift a lot fo that extra 20', having ridden a couple yz's I know they have a heavier flywheel with a more tractable powerband but I may go 6oz depending on how she runs but I really appreciate the advice.
BTW the front wheel seems to have a little vertical camber to it and spins freely but rubs heavily on the brake caliper but yes it does spin freely ....is it possible for the forks to be that twisted from a crash or should I be really concerned??? I am going to pull the bike front to rear apart this weekend and go through it....any advice on why it would be that twealed it also has a really big rock dong on the front rim I didnt see before the seller told me about it over the phone but I forgot to look
I cant wait to ride this bike!!!!!!
There is some kind of "Airplane stripper" paint remover Ive read and heard about....anyone have some examples or recommendations on what to use to get that pipe back to a works bare metal finish bec I REALLY want to get that pipe back to glory and also remove one dent in the head part of the pipe....easy dent removeal tips????
Either the RG3 or Universal clamp
The OEM seat
Rear Fender and Front plate
Dude looped it out abd the back of the seat cover is ground down enough to have a tear the width of the seat and the rear fender looks bad too, fronty one os cracking,,,,,this bike sat for over 4 years so im curious what else Ill find lol
I have a PC shorty thats going on this weekend!! whoo!!
send me a PM and lets talk!
The best way to remove dents is to cap both ends of the pipe, one cap with a schraeder valve and then pressurize the pipe. Start with about 40psi and try not to go higher but I have gone up as high as 90psi. Then heat the dent area with a MAPP gas torch until it is cherry red. The metal will get soft and the air pressure will expand and push the dent out. Sometimes it works perfect and other times it works so-so if the edge of the dent has a hard crease. While you're at it, you could just use the torch to burn all the paint off.
If you don't feel like sourcing the caps and all that one of the pipe repair places is your best bet. They will remove the dent and the paint and then you'd just have to sand it and make it look nice.
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