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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
http://twostrokemotocross.com/forum/general-two-stroke-talk/167lb-cr125/
Here's another vital thread for loosing weight -
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Losing-Weight,1212304?pag…
It's not just "how much"...it's "Where".
I've got a CRF250X that probably feels lighter than a lot of MX bikes that most folks ride.
BTW, our Ti Peg solution saves 1.7 POUNDS (Honda Rs) All of the Peg parts & hardware...our axles are a bit more than $900 & they save plenty of weight for the $, too. What type of Ti? What Design? How was it Fab'd? That's all important, too.
Our Carbon stuff speaks for itself...
NystmaC's points are still VERY VALID.
The HUGEST MISTAKES I've seen: Heavy POS wheels. Ugggh!
And to address another post by someone else. The fattest guy I ever saw race was a guy about 45- 50 years old who had a tricked out On The Line racing bike with what I think was an aluminum frame. It looked like a Ty Davis clone of some sort. He must have been 5'8 and 300lbs. He had a box van too. Seemed like a descent dude.
Nice stuff.
I've been running their stuff in Baja, too: BULLET-PROOF.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Crazy thing, a lot of stuff fits between the brands, I put the CRF caliper on the YZ, and also tried a KXF caliper, and they are a fit, but then I put on a oversized rotor bracket from the KXF to the YZ caliper which fitted, but it was tilted in a forward motion and the 270 rotor hit the bracket on the edge...
Well...
There was a guy that had some mag bits made for the early CRF 450's....
http://www.triplexmotorsports.net/Race%20Accessories.htm
This CR250 weighs under 200lbs even with the above stuff attached and I want to keep it that way.. So I won't be bolting on a heavy set of Fastway pegs or putting my extra Twinwall bars on, etc.
I found a set of complete works Solva suspension for $500, which sells for close to $10k new. The fork legs weigh under 9lbs each and look tricker than a Showa A-kit setup. You can bet I'll be weighing the shock and fork leg assembles compared to stock to see what the savings truly are.
I'm determined to see if this CR can out-handle my Husky CR165, which is probably at least 10lbs heavier.
You should also look into runing nitrogen in your tires as well
Much truth in what Parris posted!!!!!
As always, well done Mr. Newmann!
Pit Row
I actually think a lighter bike will make you a little faster, btw
As I have got older(47) I find that I like doing things like this to all my bikes, I really like the engineering side of free weight reduction. I really appreciate someone who takes the time to go through the bike and reduce weight by machining and removal of parts first before spending money.
A piece from popular mechanics below:
From the top: Air is 78 percent nitrogen, just under 21 percent oxygen, and the rest is water vapor, CO2 and small concentrations of noble gases such as neon and argon. We can ignore the other gases.
There are several compelling reasons to use pure nitrogen in tires.
First is that nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings. That means more consistent inflation pressures during a race as the tires heat up. And when you're tweaking a race car's handling with half-psi changes, that's important.
Passenger cars can also benefit from the more stable pressures. But there's more: Humidity (water) is a Bad Thing to have inside a tire. Water, present as a vapor or even as a liquid in a tire, causes more of a pressure change with temperature swings than dry air does. It also promotes corrosion of the steel or aluminum rim.
If I ever need to top off a tire when I'm out on the road, I'll always briefly depress the tire chuck's valve with my thumbnail and vent some air. If my thumb gets wet, there's water in the line. Some gas stations don't do a very good job of keeping the humidity out of their air system. I don't even like to use a water-based tire-mounting lubricant unless I can let the tire bake in the sun for a couple of hours before I air it up and seat the bead. I've dismounted tires (not mine) that had several quarts of water inside—probably from a compressed-air hose that collected water and was never purged properly.
How is water relevant to a nitrogen discussion? Any system that delivers pure nitrogen is also going to deliver dry nitrogen. Filling tires with nitrogen involves filling and purging several times in succession, serially diluting the concentration of oxygen in the tire. This will also remove any water.
It's certainly simple, although time-consuming, for a tire technician to fill and bleed tires. But most shops use a machine that not only generates almost pure nitrogen by straining the oxygen out of shop-compressed air, but will also automatically go through several purge cycles unattended. Some shops have been charging as much as $30 per tire for this service. I think that's too much. If you're buying a new tire, it should be far less. Still, the nitrogen generator, filling system and technician's time aren't free—the dealer is entitled to some return for that.
So, to answer your specific questions: With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.
Read more: Nitrogen vs Air In Tires - Why Nitrogen in Tires - Popular Mechanics
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Visit us at PopularMechanics.com
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Another-tricked-out-Honda-cr-250-for-sale,1258199
I had a local tire shop wanting me to pay $10.00 per tire to fill my tires with nitrogen. With a straight face they told me how I would get better mileage, safety, etc. F'n thieves.
Popular Science should be ashamed for publishing that article.
"So, to answer your specific questions: With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. (FALSE - THE DIFFERENCE IS TOTALLY INSIGNIFICANT) There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. (WHO CARES - NON PROBLEM) You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking (TRUTH)...
Read this....
BTW. check your tire pressures. Your probably out about 5 PSI. But who cares, it's insignificant right?
Basically I ride a CRF250 instead of a CRF450 these days without any $ spend, actually gain money since lunch is cheaper!
Post a reply to: Trying to save weight on your bike?