Austrian 65 carb tuning?

wydopen
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wydopen
Edited Date/Time 3/2/2022 4:48am
Has anyone made a special screw driver that makes getting to screw behind the shock any easier? It’s doable with a small screw driver but it’s a pain.

Also wondering if anyone has any jetting tips for these bikes. My sons been riding/racing a husky 65 that I got used. It ran pretty good but was always a little dirty sounding about 1/4-1/2 throttle..about the rpm for a start. Seems ok when he’s riding it. I just put a new top end in it and set the air screw to 3.5 turns out like the manual recommends and it’s worse than before at 1/4-1/2 throttle. Sounds ok when you blip it but is rough when you hold it steady.. According to the manual the stock jetting should be spot on for the temp/altitude. Bikes stock aside from vforce reeds and the husky hardparts silencer. carb was just cleaned, new top end with proper thickness base gasket, new spark plug and a clean air filter like always.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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J-Mill
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J-Mill 2/9/2022 8:08pm
2/9/2022 8:08pm
Nihilo has a jet kit for them that’s supposed to be the deal. Have you tried adjusting the needle height and/or going in a little on the air screw?
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wydopen
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wydopen 2/9/2022 8:11pm
2/9/2022 8:11pm Edited Date/Time 2/9/2022 8:17pm
J-Mill wrote:
Nihilo has a jet kit for them that’s supposed to be the deal. Have you tried adjusting the needle height and/or going in a little on...
Nihilo has a jet kit for them that’s supposed to be the deal. Have you tried adjusting the needle height and/or going in a little on the air screw?
Thank you. Yea it seemed to get worse when I went in on the air screw. Went out a half turn and it seemed a little better. Need to do another heat cycle on it and have him ride it for a few min then I will try again. Needle height is second from top like the manual says. Figured I’d start at stock and go from there. Wasn’t perfect before but it wasn’t this bad. Didn’t pay attention to where the previous owner had air screw set to..
FGR01
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FGR01 2/10/2022 5:09am
2/10/2022 5:09am
The stock jetting is rich unless you are at sea level and down around the 40's in temps. You can get it better by leaning the pilot, main, and clip but they are finicky and require frequent adjustment for temp/altitude changes - which is a pita because these require subframe/carb removal. We ended up using a Lectron which eliminated all the hassles once set up properly. People will tell you the Lectron has less power but I don't think it's enough to matter for what 95% of kids are doing on a 65.

Nihilo makes an extended air screw kit that uses a ball-end allen driver they supply.

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dkurtd
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dkurtd 2/10/2022 7:11am
2/10/2022 7:11am Edited Date/Time 2/10/2022 7:12am
The 50 and 65's come plenty rich from the factory. In our 65's we used to run the 5N13 needle, was always told that was what PAX racing sold as their go to needle. Second from the top clip. We would run a 200 main (sometimes a 195 depending on conditions) and a 22.5 pilot.
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wydopen
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wydopen 2/10/2022 8:12pm
2/10/2022 8:12pm
Thanks guys. I ordered some jets. Will finish breaking it in and try leaning it out. That nihilo extended screw was exactly what I was looking for. that slavens racing guy is claiming 3hp increase with the lectron..I had one on my RM and I don’t think it ran as good as it should have. Although with how hard it is to get carb in and out it doesn’t sound like a bad idea
FGR01
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FGR01 2/11/2022 10:17am
2/11/2022 10:17am
wydopen wrote:
Thanks guys. I ordered some jets. Will finish breaking it in and try leaning it out. That nihilo extended screw was exactly what I was looking...
Thanks guys. I ordered some jets. Will finish breaking it in and try leaning it out. That nihilo extended screw was exactly what I was looking for. that slavens racing guy is claiming 3hp increase with the lectron..I had one on my RM and I don’t think it ran as good as it should have. Although with how hard it is to get carb in and out it doesn’t sound like a bad idea
3HP increase on a 65 is pretty massive. If your temp/elev are reasonably static, then jetting the stock carb is not a real big deal. We live at high elevation, but all the tracks in AZ are at low elevation. Having to rip the entire bike apart to rejet every weekend got old..LOL
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drivrswntd
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drivrswntd 2/11/2022 10:48am
2/11/2022 10:48am
wydopen wrote:
Thanks guys. I ordered some jets. Will finish breaking it in and try leaning it out. That nihilo extended screw was exactly what I was looking...
Thanks guys. I ordered some jets. Will finish breaking it in and try leaning it out. That nihilo extended screw was exactly what I was looking for. that slavens racing guy is claiming 3hp increase with the lectron..I had one on my RM and I don’t think it ran as good as it should have. Although with how hard it is to get carb in and out it doesn’t sound like a bad idea
Based on what I know with our reputable builder we use up here I would have to call BS on 3Hp from a carb. Stock motor dyno's about 14hp. We pick up about 1hp with proper jetting and deck height on a AMA stock motor. We just did a full mod build with head work, porting, transmission tumble etc and the motor dyno'd 18.5hp.
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J-Mill
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J-Mill 2/16/2022 9:46am
2/16/2022 9:46am
How does it run when it’s under load and he’s riding it? That’s what is most important. It’s hard cause you have to listen and rely on feedback from him. It took a little while to build trust on the feedback my 9yr old was giving me but once I started believing he had a bog in this corner or on this landing we started being able to set his bike up a lot better. You also have to let him know it’s ok to say he didn’t feel a change, this was better, this was worse, etc. Once they start understanding how important the accuracy of their feedback is the better it gets.
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wydopen
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wydopen 2/16/2022 10:17am
2/16/2022 10:17am
J-Mill wrote:
How does it run when it’s under load and he’s riding it? That’s what is most important. It’s hard cause you have to listen and rely...
How does it run when it’s under load and he’s riding it? That’s what is most important. It’s hard cause you have to listen and rely on feedback from him. It took a little while to build trust on the feedback my 9yr old was giving me but once I started believing he had a bog in this corner or on this landing we started being able to set his bike up a lot better. You also have to let him know it’s ok to say he didn’t feel a change, this was better, this was worse, etc. Once they start understanding how important the accuracy of their feedback is the better it gets.
He’s pretty good with feedback. It sounds ok..he does usually short shift/ride a gear high but he makes it work. He’s definitely not a rev’er..He said only time it bogged was when he was wide open before hitting a big table..
wydopen
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wydopen 2/26/2022 6:14am
2/26/2022 6:14am
Installed the nihilo jet kit and it definitely runs better. He said more bottom end and it sounds better when he’s reving off the gate..

Instead of starting a new thread I figured I’d ask here:

Does anyone have any experience with either the Lanier kit for aer35 or the Krooztune spring conversion kit? The fork has so much stiction..even with his psi set on the low side
It just doesn’t feel balanced..both are about the same price..going to do his bottom end in 20hrs and his fork will need a rebuild was thinking of doing one or the other while it’s apart. Not having to check air pressure would be nice but he’s due for a growth spurt so it is nice to be able to adjust spring rate easily.

https://www.lainersuspension-usa.com/shop/front-fork-kit/kit-wp-aer-35-…

https://krooztune.com/products/wp-50-65-air-to-spring-conversion-ats


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slipdog
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slipdog 3/1/2022 9:06am
3/1/2022 9:06am
I would start with the Lainer kit as it will address several flaws in the stock fork. You get adjustable compression and rebound shim stacks whereas the stock forks have no valving in them, That's why it feels like a pogo stick even with the rebound adjuster turned all the way in. It also utilized a hydraulic bottoming stop instead of the small rubber sleeves that eventually blow apart from bottoming out. I think the best of both worlds would be to use both of those together as each one addresses something different.

I have used Race Tech's kit in the past but have seen repetitive failures of the internal pressurized bladder and would not use that again for anyone. The last straw was my son's failing after less than 10hrs so I trashed it and installed the Bud Racing cartridge kit. Now we have regular duel spring cartridges with mid valves and adjustable base valves. The installation was a bit of a pain in the ass because you need to drill out the fork lugs and countersink to hold the base valve and cartridge.
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wydopen
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wydopen 3/2/2022 4:48am
3/2/2022 4:48am
slipdog wrote:
I would start with the Lainer kit as it will address several flaws in the stock fork. You get adjustable compression and rebound shim stacks whereas...
I would start with the Lainer kit as it will address several flaws in the stock fork. You get adjustable compression and rebound shim stacks whereas the stock forks have no valving in them, That's why it feels like a pogo stick even with the rebound adjuster turned all the way in. It also utilized a hydraulic bottoming stop instead of the small rubber sleeves that eventually blow apart from bottoming out. I think the best of both worlds would be to use both of those together as each one addresses something different.

I have used Race Tech's kit in the past but have seen repetitive failures of the internal pressurized bladder and would not use that again for anyone. The last straw was my son's failing after less than 10hrs so I trashed it and installed the Bud Racing cartridge kit. Now we have regular duel spring cartridges with mid valves and adjustable base valves. The installation was a bit of a pain in the ass because you need to drill out the fork lugs and countersink to hold the base valve and cartridge.
Thanks I didn’t know bud made a conversion. They are on backorder but I think I might go that route. Their complete fork/triple clamp setup is pretty trick and the price isn’t that bad considering.

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