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Gotcha. For what it’s worth, When rebuilding my 05 Jim wanted to do a 07 head & cam, he felt the biggest benefit would be cleaner running and better power in low and mid. Turned out to require quite a few mods / extra parts to run the 07 stuff which he didn’t think the extra cost would be worth...

I believe you would need to change your auto decompression system to use the 07/08 cam. Honestly, I would recommend reaching out to Jim Haeseker of Haeseker racing engines (209) 267-9032.

Also,you may want to move or repost this in the tech help section.

You can utilize parts from the 06 crf - Triple clamps, front wheel, forks and front brake can be swapped directly over. Forks should be revalved and sprung for the 2 stroke and you should verify fork length matches or is close to the CR. But they were both twinchamber 47mm showa fork bikes with 24mm offset triple clamps. Foot...

Another option would be to lower the subframe.

I don’t doubt him, your dad’s gear was top notch for the era. Awesome you get those stories with the pics. Being a nor cal guy with a dad who rode during that era I love seeing and reading about them. Came across a couple other things to check.

Great photo 👍 leading link fork DKW Tough one to ID though, my best guess would be maybe an early wheelsmith jersey ? Might want to check out metro racing for early 70s style gear.

Tough to help diagnose without more info, smaller leak jet wouldn’t hurt but Sounds like stumble is in the zero to 1/3 throttle opening. Were you going to zero throttle while shifting ? Did you try adjusting the fuel screw on your test ride ? 2.25 is on the edge of range, try going up one size on pilot or...

Hey Woody, like Motörhead said a smaller leak will force more fuel through the accelerator pump circuit. I believe your stock leak jet is a 70, a 55 or a 45 is common as an upgrade. You said you bench tested before taking apart, I presume you also did that after rebuild. While testing did you have a 1 second...

In that picture H=honda L=lower 5= ? Can’t remember at moment, color maybe, 3anyway, the first two numbers after that will be the offset.

There is a series of ID numbers/letters on underside of the clamps (upper and lower) near the stem.

I agree with Tbones, make sure the clickers are set to recommended settings and ride. The forks should be pretty good. For the shock I would recommend trying to get a 100 to 110mm race sag. (105 ideally ) Once you get that check your static sag, if less than 30mm then it would be recommended to get a stiffer...

I should add that the slide portion looked ok, I would just replace the seal.

It’s been a couple years since but as I recall it did show some wear, maybe more degradation than actual wear if that makes sense.

Chased a similar sounding issue on my 450x. After rebuilding carb and still having the issue I spoke to someone who recommended replacing the below part. No issues since. VALVE SET, FLOATING 16037-MEB-671$129.16 $104.62Qty:

Yes, a 10’ - 13’ crf250r (1.85) rear wheel will work. The crf250r rear wheel changed in 2014, Crf450r rear wheel (2.15) changed in 2013. You can still use those but need a spacer or offset sprocket.

Happy with the vapor honing result on my 2000 Honda CR250 Frame.

Look forward to following along. Love my 05 👍