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Check the jetting first, 42-45 pilot should be good, anything smaller may be too lean. Check the fuel mixture screw on the bottom of the carb, between 1.5-2.25 turns out. Main jet between 170-178 If the bike sat for any period of time the pilot jet can become gummed up, check to see if it's clean and not plugged up. Also check that the accelerator pump shoots a strong stream of fuel when you turn the throttle. When the pilot starts to get gummed up the bike will backfire and pop when you let off the throttle. I hope you...

Starting on these is all about having proper valve clearance and then having the right combination of pilot jet and fuel screw adjustment. Get all these right and they start very easy. The symptoms you describe, doesn't kick start, will pull-start, and will kick start when hot, usually point to loss of valve clearance. But you say the valves have been shimmed. I say re-check the clearance. It is easy to do and only takes a few minutes. Let's assume you check the valves and they are fine. That leaves your pilot jet and fuel screw. Your symptoms sound like...

yes, bigger is fatter/richer. And just like Main jets they go in step numbers ending in 0, 2, 5, 8, etc Like 40, 42, 45, 48, 50....

I think those changes can make the 2006 carb pretty close to the 2007-2009 carb. The 07-09 carb basically had the QS and AP-mod "built-in".

The Boyesen Quikshot is totally unrelated to starting the bike hot. There's really no getting around running the hot start lever if you want the bike jetted correctly. The only way to eliminate it is to basically run the pilot and fuel screw too much on the lean side. But then cold starting will be an issue. Back in 2006 everyone was generally richening the fuel squirt by putting a smaller leak jet in and then playing with the needle to try to eliminate the bog. I put the NHGT needle in mine. Many were putting the smaller 2005 carb...

Timing the squirt to just miss the slide and doing O ring mod but use safety wire instead help w taking out delay

10-4. Thats exactly what I noticed with the o-ring. Still didnt move the AP arm with the cam wheel so I did safety wire it tight. I will mess with the fuel squirt timing also. is that controlled by the screw on the AP arm?

Yea the screw is for timing adjustment As close as you can get it to not spray slide