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Like the brake pedal guard. Do the linkage parts change the riding rate, or are they just lighter?

It just gets tricker and tricker. The missus would murder me if I went and bought a full set of Titanium bolts.

Bike looks great. Looks like a lot of work went into that. Did you get the bolts replated, or buy new? Not sure what to do with mine.

Very nice! I found four marks reasonably rough, and that was on a well sorted KTM 200 EXC. It's all the big jumps to flat that make you feel it, especially as you're landing in everyone's accelerating bumps. I'm only over in Kent. The bike should be ready to go by April, so give is a shout if you get...

Jmmx, lovely bike. See you're riding at four marks too, so you can't be too far away from me. Is that a later CR front end in there? I'm currently building a '90 125 (134 ported for low/mid for hare and hounds racing) with a '91 rear end like the factory bikes, and CRF front end.

I know in the HPP cr125 motors, you cannot replicate the mugen port timing with a stock barrell, and the mugen parts are meant to be badass.

Custom spacers to put the rear wheel in. For mock-up purposes, KTM rear wheel spacers (which have a 25mm ID bearing on a 20mm spindle too), and a 2.5mm washer either side fit everything together nicely.

I don't own any scales, so if I can get hold of some I'll weigh all the parts. What I do know is, the difference in the wheels at least is clear when you're holding them, one in each hand.

But all riders are different weights too. Whatever you ride, you need to set it up accordingly. Having newer components with less wear, and another two decades of r and d in them will generally be of benefit once set up to suit. All the CRF kit going into my bike (wheels included) also gives a reduction in unsprung weight...

There's only one way to find that out. I'd imagine the gain is negligible. Probably only worth it if you need to replace the parts anyway. Probably easier to lose some mass in the driveline somewhere for a similar gain.

Probably won't hear the difference. A helical cut gear us stronger than a straight cut gear, but generates a side thrust. Straight cut is noisier, and not as strong (if otherwise identical material etc) but frees up horsepower thanks to less drag.

I'm currently building a '90 cr125 with an '08 CRF250 front end in it. I'll report back once it's had its first outing. Should be a huge improvement over when I used to ride it as a kid.

Google gave me this: WR400F

Looks so much better for the additional inch of ride height. Let's hope she rides better for you too. Really cute little bike.

Can't wait to see what all the other manufacturers bikes look like.

Great stuff. I can only hope we get to see it completed, then get to see a steel-framed factory bike built around it one day.

That seat cover looks great on the RM