Are rim lock and valve stem holes interchangeable?

vitalriderCrf
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This has to be the dumbest question I've ever asked but, are rim lock and valve stem holes interchangeable on most bikes? I know they aren't on Hondas. Bike is a 2023 KX450 stock rear rim. Reason I'm asking is because the hole I currently use for rim lock has sort of "ovaled out" from the rim lock moving around and now I'm getting flats almost every time I ride. Can I simply move the rim lock over to the other hole? If not, can the rim lock hole be repaired or do I need to get a new rim? The frequent flats at the track are getting super irritating and I'm willing to try anything. 

Wish I had a photo of the hole but unfortunately I don't.

Thank you. 

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Bearuno
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6/27/2026 12:18am Edited Date/Time 6/27/2026 9:49am

You might consider getting a new rim lock - the 'wallering out' of the hole may well be part of the OEM rim locks rubber at the rim interface giving out, thus, having it rocking. 

You can get nice, all alloy ones, that present a longer 'flat' so to speak, that goes up against the rim spoke well. And, a lot of the high quality ones, have a far better ' washer and nut ' that goes up against the outer section of the rim, with more interface to the rims outer.  

vitalriderCrf
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6/27/2026 9:16am
Bearuno wrote:
You might consider getting a new rim lock - the 'wallering out' of the hole may well be part of the OEM rim locks rubber at...

You might consider getting a new rim lock - the 'wallering out' of the hole may well be part of the OEM rim locks rubber at the rim interface giving out, thus, having it rocking. 

You can get nice, all alloy ones, that present a longer 'flat' so to speak, that goes up against the rim spoke well. And, a lot of the high quality ones, have a far better ' washer and nut ' that goes up against the outer section of the rim, with more interface to the rims outer.  

I replace the rim lock every tire change. At this point I think I've run every brand rim lock out there. Currently running the Tusk Billet one and I've had two flats with it. 

Factor E
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6/27/2026 12:57pm

Should be able to find the spot youe getting flats  Is rim duct taped?  You can double rube it also

vitalriderCrf
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6/27/2026 7:56pm
Factor E wrote:

Should be able to find the spot youe getting flats  Is rim duct taped?  You can double rube it also

Last two times it's been at the bottom of the valve stem. Two times ago the stem was completely ripped off from the tube. It's been impossible to keep the stem straight on this bike but usually I can run it crooked and I don't get flats. However I'm thinking this warped rim lock hole is the culprit. 

The Shop

FGR01
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6/27/2026 8:01pm

Yes, you can swap the lock and valve stem holes.    In addition to the hole being wallered out, you may have also flared the rim lips out from overtightening the lock, which will also reduce it's ability to prevent tire slippage.   Putting the valve stem in the oval hole will also allow it more room to lean over before it gets ripped off, like a Honda rim.   Make sure you aren't tightening the stem nut down against the rim.  Either back it up to the valve cap or don't run it at all.

3
vitalriderCrf
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6/27/2026 9:08pm
FGR01 wrote:
Yes, you can swap the lock and valve stem holes.    In addition to the hole being wallered out, you may have also flared the rim...

Yes, you can swap the lock and valve stem holes.    In addition to the hole being wallered out, you may have also flared the rim lips out from overtightening the lock, which will also reduce it's ability to prevent tire slippage.   Putting the valve stem in the oval hole will also allow it more room to lean over before it gets ripped off, like a Honda rim.   Make sure you aren't tightening the stem nut down against the rim.  Either back it up to the valve cap or don't run it at all.

Thanks! All of that is good advice. I've been at this for 30 years, I'm definitely not one of those Joes tightening the valve stem nut to the rim. I see SO many people doing that and it drives me crazy, yet I'm the one getting flats. Lol. I snug the nut up to the cap how it's supposed to go. I'll definitely be sure to check the rim where I'm currently running the rim lock to see if it's flared, I didn't even think about that. Maybe I've been over tightening it all along and that's what happened?

I think the problem is since the hole is almost oval shaped now it allows everything to shift (not much) and I'm spinning the stems right off the damn tube.... It's literally impossible keep the stem straight on this wheel. I can have it perfectly straight after a tire change, tighten the lock down (Roughly 10lbs, I don't torque it but these hands are calibrated) and first session out it's crooked. Super irritating. 

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FGR01
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6/28/2026 3:10am

Also, when you get one of these flats, move the tire a little on the rim when you put the new tube in.  Give the lock a new fresh spot on the tire to bite into.  The lock can create some deep grooves and compression in the rubber over time.  

vitalriderCrf
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6/28/2026 3:40pm
FGR01 wrote:
Also, when you get one of these flats, move the tire a little on the rim when you put the new tube in.  Give the lock...

Also, when you get one of these flats, move the tire a little on the rim when you put the new tube in.  Give the lock a new fresh spot on the tire to bite into.  The lock can create some deep grooves and compression in the rubber over time.  

I take the tire completely off the rim when I change tubes so it's definitely being mounted in a different spot. I've never been able to swap the tube with only half of the tire dismounted like people do. 

FGR01
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I take the tire completely off the rim when I change tubes so it's definitely being mounted in a different spot. I've never been able to...

I take the tire completely off the rim when I change tubes so it's definitely being mounted in a different spot. I've never been able to swap the tube with only half of the tire dismounted like people do. 

Yeah, I know some guys really fret about the yellow dot, though.  Which means you end up with the rim lock biting into the same spot on the tire.

R66
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6/29/2026 9:35am

Typically the rim lock goes in the smaller of the 2 holes. Holds the tire tighter. 
 The valve stem goes in the bigger hole for a little wiggle room. 

vitalriderCrf
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6/29/2026 4:18pm
R66 wrote:
Typically the rim lock goes in the smaller of the 2 holes. Holds the tire tighter.  The valve stem goes in the bigger hole for a little...

Typically the rim lock goes in the smaller of the 2 holes. Holds the tire tighter. 
 The valve stem goes in the bigger hole for a little wiggle room. 

Aren't the holes the same size on most bikes? Like I previously said, I know Hondas aren't. I haven't actually measured the holes on my rim but they look the same. 

R66
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6/30/2026 6:23am
crc245 wrote:

Running a rim lock damper by chance? 

 

https://www.motionpro.com/product/11-0076

Only familiar with Honda’s here. I thought they all had one larger. Honda’s definitely do. 

vitalriderCrf
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6/30/2026 2:09pm
crc245 wrote:

Running a rim lock damper by chance? 

 

https://www.motionpro.com/product/11-0076

Funny you mention that. I was actually digging through some old parts this weekend and found a rim lock that had one of those on. I think it's the OEM Dunlop rim lock that came with the bike. It's still.in good shape too. Maybe next time I have my tire off I'll throw it on. 

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vitalriderCrf
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7/30/2026 8:09pm

Well, the last tube I mounted last five rides, got another flat last night. Haven't pulled the tire off to see if the hole is at the valve stem but I'm sure it is. Now all of a sudden my front is doing it too. Bro, what the HELL am I doing wrong over here!? All I want are my rim locks to do what they're designed to do. Lock the tire to the rim and keep the valve stems straight. IMG 3207 2.jpeg?VersionId=yPbHFg

jlv148
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7/30/2026 8:18pm

What are you using for lube when you mount the tires?

vitalriderCrf
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7/30/2026 8:22pm
jlv148 wrote:

What are you using for lube when you mount the tires?

At home: Pro buds tire soap

At the track: Yamalube tire mount lube

cwtoyota
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7/31/2026 7:32pm Edited Date/Time 8/1/2026 9:42am
Well, the last tube I mounted last five rides, got another flat last night. Haven't pulled the tire off to see if the hole is at...

Well, the last tube I mounted last five rides, got another flat last night. Haven't pulled the tire off to see if the hole is at the valve stem but I'm sure it is. Now all of a sudden my front is doing it too. Bro, what the HELL am I doing wrong over here!? All I want are my rim locks to do what they're designed to do. Lock the tire to the rim and keep the valve stems straight. IMG 3207 2.jpeg?VersionId=yPbHFg

Make sure you are using a rim lock designed for the width of your rim.

Are you sure your tire is rotating (slipping) on the rim?
Place a paint mark on your rim and your tire next time, or take a photo and make note of where the tire logo and the rim lock line up.

A soft carcass tire can allow the tube to move around while the tire does not slip on the rim.

I tighten my valve stem nuts firmly and I never get flats.
I credit that to the use of talc inside every tire assembly.
Also, my limit for tightening a rim lock nut is how tight I can go without belling out the rim.

Talc is your friend.  
Put a heaping spoonful in your new tire and rotate it around to spread it out.
powder a little on your new tube and spread it around so the whole tube is lightly coated.
pump up the tube to hold its shape, then push it into the tire.

I used foot powder and Gold-Bond powder in the past, but I don't think they use real talc in those products anymore.
If it says starch or cornstarch, that is not talc and it will not work in a tire.  You need talc.
You can buy a small pail of "tire talc" on Amazon for a few bucks that will last many years.  
There are probably other sources, too.

2
Nairb#70
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8/1/2026 9:56am

How many holes does it take to fill the Albert Hall?

vitalriderCrf
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8/1/2026 10:12am

Think I may have found the issueIMG 3224 3.jpeg?VersionId= KbeU95NwdgxGC7mgEFlQH uqvbm0PwIMG 3218 10.jpeg?VersionId=1ah4WloaNMf7od2f9IMG 3217 7IMG 3216 6.jpeg?VersionId=P19AeIMG 3223 4

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