Posts
2524
Joined
11/2/2011
Location
Chapin, SC, USA
I happened upon this at my local O'Reilly, I had never seen it before. Price comparable to the Maxima synthetic I normally run. Anyone know anything about the quality? It would be nice to be able to purchase closeby - would be going in a FC 350.

Probably just a rebrand of someone else's oil they partnered with.
Castrol Power1 I buy it in cases of 6 on amazon for $52. I have put 290 trouble free hours on my FX350 with it and is still surprisingly golden after 5-8 hours when I normally change it even after a race with heavy clutch use or lots of heat.
Amazon.com: Castrol Power1 4T 10W-50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6 : Automotive
Try it out & report back……you know this is Rotella country Bro….
Knowing what I know about VP, i.e., that they work with a lot of chemical suppliers and know their shiz, I'd say it is probably a great oil, whether they blend it themselves or not. (More likely not.) JASO MA2 on the label says it's pretty darn good and has passed a difficult test to qualify. They have to pay JASO a fee to get the license, so they wouldn't even try if the oil wasn't good.
EDIT: website text reads: "Formulated with premium ester-based synthetic base stock and an advanced additive package,..." So, it's an Ester synthetic (good).
https://vpracingfuels.com/products/4t-full-synthetic-10w-50-engine-oil?srsltid=AfmBOoqG7poh_nF52_qoZC-wJ5bGpYZaDYpHX2QmAj-i5jhR4bvUrYQB
Thanks! A quick google got me to ZXP Technologies as the oil manufacturer. Other brands: Including Warren, Lubriguard, Autoguard, Itasca, Coastal, LubriGold and Saxon. I've never actually heard of any of those (but also not implying they are bad or good).
The Shop
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
How much is it at O'Reilly's?
For what it's worth I stumbled upon an oil review type site a couple years ago that chemically evaluated all types of motor oil and found that content wise they were all what the manufacturers claimed they were. I got my first bike in 1972 when oil was crap compared to what is available today and never had an oil related failure. I would use the VP if the price is right. I'm sure it's just fine. Hell, there's still people out there that still swear by Type F ATF for their gear oil.
I don't know crap about oil on a technical side but there is very little difference in oil unless you move up or down "oil groups".
Any oil you can buy locally and 99% of the stuff om rmatv is group 3. Redline oil and some Motuls are group 4 bases which make them "true synthetic". So I am trying some redline in my RMZ rgith now and it is great. Mobil1 Extended Mileage also has a large percentage of "group 4" base stock because it is designed for long intervals. Anyways, I have said enough here to be confusing enough to send you onto some research haha
My opinion is that it's better financially and for longevity to use a "good" oil (maybe not a supreme oil like motul) and keep your oil change intervals shorter rather than long.
^Mostly correct. In true oil fashion, they make these things hard to understand on purpose and the marketing takes over. Here's some info about the groups:
Group 1: Conventional oil. This product uses a chemical or solvent to separate crude oil into strata, and each stratum is a type of petroleum product. The oil part is what we call Group 1 base oil.
Group 2: Hydrocracked oil. Same idea, but they use steam and pressure to separate the crude. This results in a much finer separation of different layers of hydrocarbons. "Better" base oil is the result.
Group 3: Extremely hydrocracked oil. The hydrocracking process is done for a longer period of time, higher pressures, etc. "Even Better" base oil, but now the marketing department can call it "full synthetic." Note that this oil is still from dead dinosaurs and does not have, IMO, anything to do with true synthetic oil.
Group 4: Polyalphaolefins (PAO): This is a man-made chemical that results in a true synthetic oil. It has a different hydrocarbon molecular shape and resists breakdown very strongly. Fantastic long-term oil. I run this in my truck (Mobil 1 is a PAO.)
Group 5: Everything else: This is the catch-all group for synthetic oils which do not belong to any other group. Esters live here. Interestingly enough, since castor oil is not a hydrocracked or conventional oil, it is also categorized in group 5. A "natural synthetic."
Is mobile1 extended performance all PAO or just “mostly”? What interval do you go with?
I've been happy with Motul 10 50 synthetic in my 350s . I had a ton of hrs on my 22 ,95 hrs on original clutch . It wasn't slipping but thought I should change it out
I just put it in my FC350, it is $16.99 a qt. which makes me twitch every time I pay that much for oil.
It was $16.99, basically same price as Maxima, just closer to home.
I don't think anything is 100% PAO. By law, I think they need to put 70% synthetic oil in the bottle for it to be called "full synthetic." (It may be some small percentage more or less than that; I don't know.) That said, Mobil1 prides itself on their synthetic oil performance, so they would likely put more PAO oil base in their products than "filler." (Where's @MotoTribology when you need him?)
I change my oil every 5,000 miles on the Tacoma, but there have been times when finances made me extend the interval. That's why I like PAO; it can handle the extra abuse. You can sometimes get away with changing the filter and topping off. Coming up on 300K miles on that truck now.
So I met this guy at AutoZone when I was in high school that did not change his oil. He would swap filters every 3000 miles and keep his oil level high. I've never been brave enough to try but I thought that was pretty wild.
I used to work at a Mobil gas station. Late one night, the truck driver who drove the fuel truck told me the same. He said he and many other truck drivers swear you can run a PAO oil in a Diesel truck for 100,000 miles by changing the filter more often and topping off. (He limited his to every third or fourth oil change interval himself.) I wouldn't go for it, but now I don't feel as guilty if I have to put a few extra miles on the oil.
Yeah I still set our maintenance reminders at 3k but that just signals that “time to start thinking about doing it” versus “do it now” hahaha.
Isn't VP the same company that had several batches of bad fuel last year?
Transmission fluid lasts a long time, so seems conceivable engine oil would as well. Although the engine oil is more likely to get contaminated and changing the filter wouldn't address condensation in the oil.
Pit Row
My uncle did that in a new 1984 Nissan pickup. Motor ran for 240,000 before she blew. Mechanic knew exactly what the problem was and this was back in the Dino oil only days. New filter and topped off with fresh. Oil.
I own a 23 TRX Hellcat engine. I change the oil when the readout tells me too about 7k. Truth is in 5 to 7 years I'll buy something new so I don't give a chit if it makes 200k or not. Some guys change oul at 3000 with a full syn. Waste of money.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s Warren Petroleum, they make good stuff. Most parts house brands, Costco, Sam’s is Warren for what I know.
Be kinda funny if it was the same thing as Walmart supertech, last I heard it was made my Warren.
I’ve also heard similar story….ludicrous
Lol
I use super tech full syn and change 3-4k miles In my vehicles typically and it’s never premature . The oil is very dark and obviously spent.
Just recently purchased the Kirkland full syn from Costco and will be running that
20qts for $75ish is cheap insurance imo
It’s too easy and cost effective to change your own oil at more frequent intervals for peace of mind
The countless 4 strokes I have owned/rebuilt , including friends and customers , confirm to me that those that service their bikes on an extended interval are asking for trouble in huge ways
To each their own though !
My Grandpa (RIP) owned a successful paving company here in the 818 and this was his way on every vehicle he owned, personal and work. Only thing changed every 3000 was the oil filter, just add oil as it burned off and keep trucking. Then again, these were all 60's-80's Ford's, so they burned plenty of oil to keep it pretty fresh. lol
Post a reply to: VP Synthetic 10W50 Oil Quality?