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Only adjust compression or rebound, don’t adjust both at the same time. If the suspension does not feel good at base settings then something is not right internally. if you are using stock springs front and rear, what direction did you go with valving, softer or stiffer?
Don’t be afraid to start at base settings and turn compression all the way out a couple clicks at a time and go back to base setting and then do the same with rebound. Front and rear
Yes opening up the rebound circuit also lessens compression damping some.
What is the float on the fork midvalve? Can you post the DVS? I just redid a friends rmz with gold valves in the fork. Float was around .28mm on his. The LSV plays a huge role in damping force. I added a crossover after two of the LSV face shims.Someone had put 3 face shims that were .15mm thick on his base valve. I replaced them with .1mm shims and pulled two of the odd size high speed shims from the base valve. Shock is horrible to work on and difficult to bleed. Pinched the compression adjuster oring twice and had to order some. If that shock isn’t bled right it will be really unpredictable and dangerous. Shock was original and had 100 psi and oil had so much air in it looked like foam..no wonder people hate how this shock performs in stock form. With the shock all I did was swap a face shim from the compression to the rebound stack and a slightly smaller crossover on compression and one size smaller clamp shim.. I think we ended up at 360cc in fork outer chamber . They specified 385 and it was too much. Personally I think the GV is a downgrade from the showa fork pistons. There shock GV for the BFRC looks decent but I have nut tunded one with it.
Looks like he is running the 250 KYB shock
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No doubt a combination of things.
IMO .54 on a Showa with 340cc of oil and beefed up valving is going to ride exactly as you describe.
Put at least 1 stock spring in, ditch another 20cc per leg. Double check for axle binding and fork heights correct. Start w comp 7-8 click out, tune it til you get it stiff enough.
Wait wait - compression at only 7 or 8 out and tune from there until stiff enough? Is that what you meant?
Otherwise, great plan of action. I love it and that’s what I’m doing this week then.
Thanks for the input. I love it. My DVS sheet is on my computer and I left it in my office earlier actually but I will just post it up tomorrow. I know my float is 0.30mm and is set right. I’ll add some pictures. I will also add that (I think) this spec had a single stage lsv which I thought was odd but went with it. It may not have been the LSV but somewhere has a single stage which stood out to me.
I’m on the peak of the Dunning Kruger curve when it comes to this - know enough to talk but not enough to fix anything😂
Also I’m on a KYB shock. It’s harsh too but not much worse than my YZ. That’s a problem for later.
The factory connection ics springs are 1.7
The stock ics springs are 2.0 usually.
Do you know what the softer springs do? As far as perceived effect.
Owen, drop me an email to chris@racetech.com and we will get you with a tech to go through feedback, troubleshooting, and an updated setting as needed.
The 100% guarantee on the products and settings isn't just marketing BS and we have a ton of data on the RMZ. Happy to help.
I am just the marketing guy, but I deal with riders all the time and I don't hear slower rebound ever to deal with it. You can view the rebound clicker as a "comfort" adjuster and soften it (faster) to get more comfort (sometimes coupled with going stiffer on compression to balance it).
The most common causes of this feedback is forks that are either not torqued to spec so they are pinched or binding because they aren't parallel. If if it's setting related we'll get you sorted without issue.
Morning dude. I’ll get in touch as soon as I’m at the computer!! 😁
If you slow the rebound down(going in on the clicker) the suspension won’t be as active. In my experience with a harsh/stiff feeling on landings can sometimes be attributed to a rebound circuit over powering the compression dampening.
As the fork is compressing and getting to the bottom of its movement for that particular obstacle(ie not necessarily bottoming the fork but the bottom of the stroke for that obstacle) the rebound circuit can start trying to push the fork back up to quickly and it results in a harsh feeling in the hands.
Sorry if that explanation sucks. Set your compression in a zone that is in the ballpark and start by turning in the rebound 2 clicks at a time. If it gets better keep going. You’ll know you’ve gone to far when it starts to pack and deflect/ head shake in breaking bumps.
I don't but i am getting the factory connection ics springs on my yz 125.
I Will let You know next weekend.
I am running this exact setup EXCEPT:
-18 out on compression
-16 out on rebound
-340 mL of oil (1 mL = 1cc)
I'm curious to see what you figure out.
Not trying to be a dick but it sure seems like a classic case of telling them you are faster than you are, happens to the best of us.
In my email to Chris I did present this as a possibility, sort of. I don't take offense either.
Where I live, we do not have fast tracks really. Where I was this past weekend, you never got above 3rd gear on a 450. What I am getting at is no matter how fast you are, you are only going to enter some corners so fast. If the valving is setup for 450B racing at 213 pounds but the track is tight and choppy, you're probably never going to need the amount of damping that you have. We do not have sections that are producing extremely fast shaft speeds and I worry that the opportunity to utilize the forks is not being presented.
I didnt just theorize this in my brain either. When I rode previous to this weekend, I did find one part of the track that felt amazing: a very fast, very rough corner entry after a ski jump. I could launch it into the chop and stay on the gas longer. So when the track opened up and gave me the chance to really attack, it felt good. I hope that makes sense. I hope to get it dialed in too though. Otherwise the new bike rocks. Things a total smile factory every time I kick it😉
I feel for you man.
Chasing a good suspension setting is so critical to having confidence in a bike.
From everything you have posted it sounds over damped valving wise (for a faster shaft speed) or yer spring rate is off.
You may be surprised that a softer set up works better for you and what you ride on.
Ffs, call racetech already.
Pit Row
We're on a forum for dirtbikes discussing dirtbikes in the dirtbike-related section. I'm not begging for answers, just chatting and learning off of one another. If you don't like it, you're free to not look dude. I've already spoken with them and waiting on their response.
Nobody is making you click on this.
I'm Sorry if I'm interrupting one of the deegan threads or a broadcast gripe fest😂
Also, as a person who's been saved a thousand times from searching old forum threads, it's good to post and good to be detailed.
I can't stand that "leaf spring" type midvalve.... Maybe good for someone riding supercross but what % of people here are actually doing that? The older style with the small spring was more flexible as far as getting the mid valve to not be so harsh.
See the (7)34.15 face shims. That’s what is beating you up. That’s a heavy base stack. I’d pull 4 of them and the 31 to start and if the clicker still isn’t getting to where you need I’d pull another. MV looks fine. If the front doesn’t want to settle and the clicker isn’t responding I’d start pulling odd shims 23,21,19 from LSV. Have to put some filler shims at the end of the stack to fill the gap so the nut tightens. Rebound is a little heavy with 6 face shims but with .54 springs that’s expected. Good luck and I’m sure RT will get you straight they have some excellent setttings once you find what works for you.
99% of the suspension sets I've seen that were sent to the big suspension shops, they came back way to stiff.
That's been my experience anyway.
What’s crazy too is that a lot of guys go to the leaf mid in the older SSS forks as well. I have never tested them back to back. Have you?
Mine are always soft lol
Just to make sure, you’re saying start by pulling out four of those heavy face shims and the .10x31mm out?
So when we modify the face shims does that reduce the slope of the entire damping curve or just move the whole curve down? If that doesn’t make sense just ignore me lol
The problem here is you have 15 different people telling you 15 different things, and there's not really a great way to vet who knows what they're talking about and who doesn't. You're gonna be a lot better off just dealing directly with the company that gave you the setting and allowing them to guide you to an optimal setting based on your feedback. The signal to noise ratio in this thread is not good and you'll end up chasing your tail a lot less if you just listen to one source of input for the time being. If they prove to be incompetent and can't get you dialed in (which I very highly doubt would be the case given their history) then it might be time to consider other sources but for now it's only going to be detrimental to the process.
Post a reply to: Race Tech suspension - riding rough after revalve?