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Put the stock springs back in the forks but leave that shock spring in the bike
I’m not understanding the point of this thread, you’re claiming to not want to drag Race Tech through the mud but that’s pretty much exactly what it’s titled to do. They gave you a setting, maybe it’s a bit off or maybe there were errors on installation, but either way both scenarios can happen and I’m sure they’ll get it sorted out with a simple phone call. I don’t really know what you’re trying to achieve here but it’s really not fair to them, give them a chance to fix it before putting them on blast for no reason.
First thing I can think of is tossing a ziptie on your fork tube and go for a ride without adjusting anything. If its super low on the fork almost bottomed out stiffen it. If its way high soften it. Id aim for about an inch and a half from the bottom of the fork.
Unfortunately without looking at it in person my advice is limited. But I can point you in the direction of Keefer testings "The Affects Of Change" article on his site. If covers essentially every change and what it does.
How many times in the thread should I praise them for killing my past setups? RT is awesome.
I’ll even change the title for you.
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Well.. I’m not opposed to trying this, but, if this is done will this not make the engine braking effect worse? What do you think about the give and take going on there?
Bike balance, if you find it's too soft after that then mix the fork springs and run a .50 and a .54 giving you .52
Not only is this quick and free but it will tell you if it actually a valving issue or not
.54 seems stiff on the fork?
I kinda thought so too. However I felt stupid going with something outside of the spec because if it felt off.. then it was on me.
How about a riding video to assess what the issue may be rather than a pic of the bike on the stand?
I ride alone. Any suggestions? I don’t have a tripod either.
Guessing it's a bit oversprung at .54, I would guess putting one of the stock springs in and dropping a bit of oil height will get you right in the zone.
You would run a .54 and a .49? I've never mismatched them but I know it gets done. Just apprehensive, thats all. Any negative effects?
That would put me at an effective rate of 1.03kg/mm which sounds more like where I have landed in the past. My YZ is on .50 on each side. Currently The RM-Z it is 1.08. So thats like 5% softer. Will that even do anything? It would effectively be as if I went down one spring rate. Thank you!
Not an issue. There are tons of designs utilizing springs in just one side. Slight rate change on one side is not a factor beyond tuning.
Give it a go (I would drop a bit of oil too). If it's an improvement you know you're moving in the right direction.
Have you tried slowing down the rebound on the fork? A lot of harsh compression feel in forks can come from a rebound circuit that is too fast. I would put the comp at a setting that you think has been the best and then slow down the rebound 2 clicks at a time, if it gets better keep going til it gets worse and work your way back to the Goldilocks zone.
I think I went 20 mL less than the Rt spec right off the bat. I'll post the numbers when I get back to the shop sometime. I think I'm running 340 mL in the outers right now. I was suspecting it to be stiff from the data sheets and the last setup i got from them. My Yamaha is awesome but it is not as plush/compliant as I would like. I'm not sure why but yes I totally forgot about the SFF designs LOL.
We need to get this figured out asap... guess I better ride every single weekend for the foreseeable future😎😂
When you put in your bike, rider 213lbs and A rider it comes up .54 kg. Usually Race Tech is soft on fork springs so I would say you were fine.
Adam I wanted to add also that when I ride through the pits or over like some roots or rain ruts that the fork is wildly harsh. Almost won’t move. Maybe this is spring stiffness?
I don’t know what stock spring taxes are but .54 whoa that’s stiff. On RT,s spring calculator I put in b rider , expert, pro , 40+. .44 going up only pro had .47 if I remember right. For my bike . Only update 4 my bikes forks is gold valves & low friction seals 4 my bike.
Pit Row
Think all the 450s come with .50 kg fork springs?
Most are 5.0n//mm which is .51kg/mm
There is a guy on here who works for RT that usually is quick to help. Reisenberg or something like that?
That spring rate seems really stiff for fork springs even at 213 lbs. I’ve had multiple Showas revalved by FC and they were always great, on both Suzuki and Honda. They always changed the smaller pressure spring - curious if RT changed that too? I’ve always had a suspicion that is how they got such a nice plush initial feel.
Did they go lighter or heavier on the rate? That spring is what controls the pressure on the inner cartridge so I think it is heavier spring ≈ more damping (stiffer:stiffer). Specifically on compression.
Mine are stock. I did not replace them. When ProTune did my WP forks, Corey changed those as well and it felt good. Also a great shop.
It’s been a few years since my last set and unfortunately I don’t have any of the paperwork to compare, but I had them do three separate ones for three bikes and they changed them every time. I would have thought they went to a lighter rate but I have no documentation of that.
Unless there’s a professional on here that can correct us I’m assuming lighter as well. That spring is what’s responsible for the fork cartridges “returning to full extension” on their own.
Sorry I missed this. As usual you got the thumbs down treatment and no explanation.. I have always understood rebound to provide a little better traction and smoothness but at the expense of a more active and deflective front end.
So if rebound slows down will I not feel more impacts in the hands (theoretically)?
I think he has that backwards. If you slow down the rebound you will stiffen the compression also because they share a common bleed.
If I open up the rebound does that also reduce compression damping? I forgot these circuits are connected too. I was adjusting them both at the same time so that may be part of why I got the wallowing feeling - lots of change at one time.
Yes, error on my part.
Check out the Suspension forum on ThumperTalk. It’s the best moto suspension forum I’ve found.
Post a reply to: Race Tech suspension - riding rough after revalve?