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I googled this but didn’t find much on the topic. Anybody done any testing to determine the difference. I don’t race and haven’t in years, older guy. When I set sag I may throw boots and helmet on. I’m sure I’m guilty of no gear, set at 104 hoping for 105 lol.
I use a slacker tool and could easy track it/save to the app. Not sure why I haven’t, I claim old age.
I don’t think I’ve ever put any effort into seeing what the delta between no gear and suited up is.
Anybody know.
If you weight 100lbs it may be measurable, if you weigh 220lbs it won't!
Be interesting to see what my sag setting currently is. I’ve lost about 40 pounds last few months. Haven’t checked sag in a good while on any of my 3 scooters. I need to think about swapping to back to a lighter rear spring lol. I put heavier rear springs on both my Beta and Honda. I still have a few more pounds to loose. I’m a big guy, porked out after knee surgery a couple years back. I’d like to get down to 190-195. Like to drop 10-15 more pounds if I can.
For me, checking sag is a safety issue. The better your suspension is set up, the less likely you are to get tossed on the ground in the event of those "oh sheet moments". Also, my son taught me that only 2 two things should be touching the ground. Make sure tire pressure is set every ride out.
You are extremely correct on a safety issue, especially the older you get the more it hurts to hit the ground. Also older you get easier to get injured. I threw a leg over a new 23 Honda to beak in and spring rate was way off for my weight/sag way off. I had a really bad get off which I honestly think could have been avoided. Im a big guy, have swapped the rear spring and got sag close even though not broke in.
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While you're over thinking it, what about: Shock temperature, shock fluid life, linkage bearing condition, amount of fuel in the tank, did you shit yet or not?
How do you know 105 is optimal for the track conditions and your riding style?
100% with you on this. I got a slacker just to end up giving up on sag measurement almost entirely.
I have better luck counting turns of the preload ring and testing different settings.
105 may not be best for a given track, but it’s not a bad place to start.
Always measure with shock at normal temperature, don’t go ride heat the shock up then check you won’t get the same result
Another factor that affects the performance of the rear shock is how you torque your linkage and swingarm bolts - on a stand vs wheels on the ground (you’re suppose to do it with the bike under its own weight).
When it comes to sag consistency is paramount - measure it the same way EVERY time. Gear on/off, standing vs sitting, where you sit, where you measure, how much fuel is in your bike, the tool you use etc…
Just measure it with gear to be in ballpark. Then use static sag instead. That you will get consistent.
Also got to decide if you check sag hot or cold. Hot means it will be ~2mm less sag so you need +2mm added when cold to get it right.
I also have variations on surface. Concrete floor at home I need 2mm more. 42 at home in garage will be 40 at the track. Add a few laps and it's 38.
So I always set it to 44 in the garage. Will be 40 pretty quickly on the track.
Also use slacker.
Check it cold and always check it the same way. A sag number is a reference point to determine what feel you want to be comfortable. there is no magic number for every bike or track. I prefer consistent sag and use high, low along with rebound to fine tune at each track. On my 20 KX450, I only change a click or so from track to track. Seems Hondas require more adjustment from track to track and moto to moto.
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