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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
I have a brand new 23 350. 8800
Weird I never had a vibration issue with any of my 350s.
My favorite trait of the previous 350 motor was the over rev and shifting half as much as a 450. Sounds like the new version signs off early and probably requires a shift. Seems counter productive, not interested if so.
Exactly how my 21 was.I want a fast 250, not a slow 450. Id love to tell you how the new engine is but mines at the dealer with a major mechanical failure at 48 minutes. Never got to wind it out. Should get some warranty\replacement answers tomorrow
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how brand new… how many hours? I might be interested instead of getting a 2024.
you can email me direct at my user name @hotmail.com
I had a 21 for 2 years and it was a great bike and I now have a 23. The 23 has quite a bit more torque but still revs out like the 21 did. Just all round better engine. I love the 23, for me it is best mx bike I have ever owned. I could see where smaller riders may not like it as much but I think average height to taller riders would be more comfortable on it. Stability seems much improved on the 23 also
It’s never been ridden
Email sent
Can you get it to florida ha
I’ll have to take your word but non of the reviews say that. I could ride one of the few that my buddies have bought but I’m having to much fun on my 23 300. My 20 350 is sitting. I need to sell it but prices are so low I just haven’t even tried.
Came from a 19 YZ450F. Clocked in about 35hours on the 350. Added an FMF slip on and AIM TAIPAIN ECU. The ECU really opened up the power of the bike, with it not being too torquey as a 450 and yet it revs to the moon. IMHO the stock maps are crap and results in too much decel pop. After the ECU change all that is gone. No fanning of the clutch needed even in 3rd gear in the corners. The chassis just kept getting better after 10 hours. Straight line stability just kept getting better after the intial break in period. The ECU even took care of the much dreaded vibrations.
Hope this helps, but each rider is different. What works for me may not work for you.
Where did you get the AIM ECU? Not much info on them, did it come with custom maps, does quick shift still work?
https://tomasinracing.net/
Can check them out, yup got 5 maps to choose from with an on the fly switch. Quickshifter still works.
There is a US distributor. Not sure if they do direct sales or what.
https://www.aim-sportline.com/us/contacts-america.htm
I also have a 23 300SX too. It is great, I have it set up for hare scramble/woods. I liked the chassis so much on the 300 it made me want the 23 350. I do have the PDHS bar mounts and Pro Tapers on it, I really hate how stiff the stock Neken bars on them. Personally, that is the first thing I would change on any KTM. Maybe the 23 models just work better for me.
That's a nice scooter
The Neken bars are incredibly stiff, cant wait to get them off my 23’
Has anyone ever cross sectioned one to see what they look like inside? They are ~20g lighter than Protaper evo bars so they can’t have thicker walls.
Yes, the Neken are just round and slightly less thick than an Evo as you would expect from your weights:
Neken
Wall thickness at grip area: 3.95 mm
Wall thickness at clamp area: 4.1 mm
Evo
Wall thickness at grip area: 4.2 mm
Wall thickness at clamp area: 4.15 mm
We also took cross sections in the transition and had planned on running analysis and whatnot, but didn't complete the CAD models to do so (missing the proper geometry for the rise, sweep, etc.) and we weren't certain about the materials either. Just got caught up in other things and it wasn't a priority.
If the Evo is more compliant than the Neken, it either has to do with material properties being different between the two or the geometry of the transition from clamp area to grip area. Aside from those two possibilities, the Neken should actually be less stiff than the Evo.
Pit Row
Even if the aluminum alloys are different the modulus should be nearly the same for all aluminum? It isn’t like we are talking aluminum vs titanium. Could this be a case where the stiffer part actually feels “softer”? I am comparing it to the husky evo bend but any evo bend I have tried feels softer.
The modulus between different aluminum alloys is close, but not identical:
6061-T6 - 68.9 GPa
7075T6 - 71.7 GPa
2024-T4 - 73.1 GPa
Handlebars are typically made from 2000 or 7000 series aluminum, so the modulus could be different by nearly 2%. I don't think anyone makes a bar from 6000 series.
I run twin walls so there’s that lol, I’ve can’t even ride a new bike till I put a bar with a cross bar and pad on.
I love the new chassis also
Wow, that is interesting. I do believe that Evo are more compliant than stock Neken KTM bars. I was really surprised at those thickness readings!
Do you think most people would be able to tell a difference of 2%?
Certainly to some extent, but it's also been pounded into everyone's heads via Keefer and other sources so much that people are definitely going to "feel" it a lot whether it's there or not. But it's also 2% of a big chunk of deflection.
Whether or not a percentage change in stiffness of a particular part is noticeable or not is dependent on how much that parts flexes to begin with. A 2% change in chassis stiffness is huge. A 2% change in fork lug stiffness is insignificant. Bars are pretty significant.
I know exactly what you mean. I used to be the same way and only ran twin walls for years and years. Felt super weird to ride a bike and not have a crossbar. About 8 or 9 years ago I rode a buddy's bike (same bike as I had) with pro tapers and figured out I liked a little more flex so I switched to fatbars and have only run pro tapers or fatbars since lol. Maybe it is just because I am getting older (almost 50 now). I run the Mako 360 with pro tapers on my 300SX and feel like it is even a little extra comfort for my hands/arms.
Recently picked up a 2023 350 to get back into riding & soon to be racing after being away for about 8 years.
Just got my preprinted number backgrounds - is that “pull to open” on the air box side plate a sticker that can be removed? If so, any tips for effectively removing that?
Which bike do you enjoy more? Thinking about getting a 300 SX, currently have a 2022 Gasgas MC 350.
Had a 350 23 sxf and liked the bike except for one thing. It was impossible to get a good fork setting. Tried the stock stuff, conevalves and conevalve aer with different settings but it was not possible to get it as good as on the 22 chassi.
Did have a supertrax also and it worked fine.
My local suspension shop has tested a lot on the new chassi since and it seems like the suspension works a lot better on the two strokes than the four strokes so I would go for the 300 sx.
They said it had something to do with the weight of the four stroke engine beeing to far forward on the sxfs so its impossible to get the fork to work as good as it does on the old bikes.
I really love both bikes the way I have them setup. I only ride the 350 on the MX track, The 300 I ride in the woods and some MX. I am more comfortable on the 350 riding MX, I think because I have been riding/racing 4 strokes since 2008. Before that it was 250 2 Strokes for over 10 years. I am sure if I rode the 300 consistently on the track I would get more comfortable on it. For pure fun the 300 is hard to beat IMO
Similar situation here
I have a ‘23 XC300 for my main OffRoad bike and a ‘23 SXF350 for my track bike. I had a ‘23 SX300 and I really tried to like it, but I never got comfortable on it, so I sold it and bought another 350. I should’ve kept my ‘19 350, it was such a good bike. Haven’t ridden the ‘23 yet, but plan to ride on here shortly.
I’ve had many 250 2-strokes and even had a ‘18 150 that were all very fun to ride moto on. The ‘23 300 felt more like a 500 than a 250, it had a very light front end, thanks to the burly motor. That wasn’t making things easy and I decided to sell it while it was still new and desirable.
I have Cone Valves and the Trax shock on my ‘23, I’m sure I’ll get use to the chassis change, once I have some time on it.
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