2021 Xact suspension settings and set ups

Grouper
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3/9/2022 1:10pm
wrc777 wrote:
Race sag is measured from full droop. Static is a way to check that your spring rate is in the ball park. Lucky has inserts (~$1k...
Race sag is measured from full droop. Static is a way to check that your spring rate is in the ball park.

Lucky has inserts (~$1k I think). There are retrofit kyb inserts( $2k last I checked). Wp has cartridges for $1300 plus $130 for springs. Racetech and I think wp also had or have single side spring conversions that just replace the air cartridge.
Not trolling. All my life I have set the bike on the ground, let it settle, taken measurement, sat in the attack position, and dialed that SAG in to spec. Have I been doing it wrong?
Grouper
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3/9/2022 1:18pm
Grouper can you remove any preload off the spring? I’m actually surprised you’re only getting 100mm of sag, I’m the same weight and running a 4.8...
Grouper can you remove any preload off the spring? I’m actually surprised you’re only getting 100mm of sag, I’m the same weight and running a 4.8, and have been wanting to try a 4.9 or 5.0 due to the amount of pre-load I need to put on the 4.8.

Unfortunately IMO the front end slapping feeling is the air, the only way to correct it is a spring conversion. That has been my biggest complaint with the AER forks. The slap and initial harness drove me crazy, chased it with valving and finally cured it with spring conversions.

I also have seen the air spring cartridge needing additional lube as a set of mine was sticking from the factory and would not compress or rebound with out sticking. It was so bad that you could hear it.
Grouper wrote:
I'll definitely be doing some inspecting then. What are some signs that I'm having hyper stiction like that? Aside from the obvious. The deal with the...
I'll definitely be doing some inspecting then. What are some signs that I'm having hyper stiction like that? Aside from the obvious.

The deal with the sag is kind of screwy.. I set my sag and accidentally measured the 105mm/4.125" from full droop and not from static sag. So the sag was set from sitting on the stand from sitting on the ground with me on it. When I realized that I was in my gear about to go ride it for the first time so I just loosened it up about one turn and ran it. I was just breaking it in anyways, riding slow. I'm going to re-do it all this week or weekend since the weather sucks. There's a fair amount of preload left too so I believe I can get it set. I spoke with FC over lunch and they also recommended a 5.2.

What are the options for spring conversions? Is it drop in cartridges? One-off work? Typical pricing? I have truly no clue so be detailed if you want. I'm kind of discouraged because I truly would have bought a Suzuki for 6k if I thought I was going to turn around and sink a lot of money back into a bike. I was hoping to buy the right shock spring and go rip ):
If you pull the air chamber out of the left fork and compress it you’ll be able to tell if it has any issues. It should...
If you pull the air chamber out of the left fork and compress it you’ll be able to tell if it has any issues. It should compress and extend smoothly. Mine was so bad on the compression stroke you could hear it catch and would have to forcefully compress it.

You measured your sag correctly. “Race sag” is the difference between on the stand and with the rider mounted. “Static sag” is how much sag the bike has from its own weight, too much static and the spring is too light, too little and the spring is too heavy.

105 is a pretty ideal starting point, and likely the correct spring.

I have a del soggio spring conversion in one bike and k-tech in another. Using .88kg springs in each. I like the k-tech better, it’s a little more thought-out in its design and simplicity. If you watch here and Facebook you can get used single spring conversions for $250-$400. New they are $500-700.

If you end up parting with that 5.0 I’d buy it from ya
I know this sounds odd but I buy like half of my stuff from ebay. I got my race-tech spring for 108 shipped. It's gone up a little obviously since last week (tongue in cheek) but still better than 150. I use that seller alot, they're great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383129803759?epid=239218568&hash=item593450dbe…

Great lol I get to reset the sag again then hahaha. Oh well, easy enough. So I get a little confused by all of the conversions, AER vs XACT, and so on. I'll have to try to learn and make sure I do not buy something wrong. For me, I think the single sided conversion will handle the little complaints I have if the issue doesnt mellow out over the next dozen hours or so. Do you think the same way?
wrc777
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3/9/2022 1:26pm Edited Date/Time 3/9/2022 1:27pm
Yeah you have been measuring it wrong. The page above the one I attached shows how to check static sag which is also checked compared to full droop/back wheel off the ground. Get on you tube and watch some videos of how to set it to be sure. Oh try standing with weight as even as you can get it on the pegs instead of sitting to set the race sag. Depending on where you sit it will not measure consistent.

If I am doing my math right you are running 105 + static sag which is probably 30-50mm so 135-155 race sag. Does it even steer without a rut to guide it? I would fix that before you do anything else and then try the handlebar.


2
StevenMX
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Portland, OR US
3/9/2022 1:31pm
wrc777 wrote:
Race sag is measured from full droop. Static is a way to check that your spring rate is in the ball park. Lucky has inserts (~$1k...
Race sag is measured from full droop. Static is a way to check that your spring rate is in the ball park.

Lucky has inserts (~$1k I think). There are retrofit kyb inserts( $2k last I checked). Wp has cartridges for $1300 plus $130 for springs. Racetech and I think wp also had or have single side spring conversions that just replace the air cartridge.
Grouper wrote:
Not trolling. All my life I have set the bike on the ground, let it settle, taken measurement, sat in the attack position, and dialed that...
Not trolling. All my life I have set the bike on the ground, let it settle, taken measurement, sat in the attack position, and dialed that SAG in to spec. Have I been doing it wrong?
Yeah you are doing it wrong... you'd be off by 30-40mm if you let the bike settle/took measurement from bike off stand, then got on and took the measurement. Take the "0" measurement from the bike on the stand with both wheels free of bike weight, then take bike off stand, compress bike a few times to settle shock, then stand on bike in position with all your gear and take the measurement for 105mm or whatever you are trying to achieve.
2

The Shop

Grouper
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3/9/2022 1:33pm
I can't show my face here any longer.
1
Grouper
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Paducah, KY US
3/9/2022 1:38pm
wrc777 wrote:
Yeah you have been measuring it wrong. The page above the one I attached shows how to check static sag which is also checked compared to...
Yeah you have been measuring it wrong. The page above the one I attached shows how to check static sag which is also checked compared to full droop/back wheel off the ground. Get on you tube and watch some videos of how to set it to be sure. Oh try standing with weight as even as you can get it on the pegs instead of sitting to set the race sag. Depending on where you sit it will not measure consistent.

If I am doing my math right you are running 105 + static sag which is probably 30-50mm so 135-155 race sag. Does it even steer without a rut to guide it? I would fix that before you do anything else and then try the handlebar.


WRC I think you even helped me in a thread about getting my YZ250 to handle lol.. If only I knew.

Well seriously though I guess it's always good to check our knowledge. I've been dumb for a decade it seems. No screenshots allowed Laughing . It did handle strange but it is still pretty good. the front is kind of skatey.

Lets table this until I swap bars and dial the sag in just right. Fairly certain everything I say is past the point of accuracy. Thanks a million for the help everyone. REALLY appreciate it.
3
StevenMX
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3/9/2022 4:12pm
Going to be a whole new bike once you set that sag right Smile ... New bars will still help comfort regardless!
2
aees
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US
3/10/2022 2:13pm
50nm rear spring is good for you, not less than 50nm. You are probably around 5-7mm preload which is good.

It's the 100mm sag causing issues. 102-104 sag, 37-40mm free sag. Run as much sag as you can towards 40 and 105, but with the bike still turning and offering fronend traction.
MX558
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3/16/2022 11:15pm
Grouper can you remove any preload off the spring? I’m actually surprised you’re only getting 100mm of sag, I’m the same weight and running a 4.8...
Grouper can you remove any preload off the spring? I’m actually surprised you’re only getting 100mm of sag, I’m the same weight and running a 4.8, and have been wanting to try a 4.9 or 5.0 due to the amount of pre-load I need to put on the 4.8.

Unfortunately IMO the front end slapping feeling is the air, the only way to correct it is a spring conversion. That has been my biggest complaint with the AER forks. The slap and initial harness drove me crazy, chased it with valving and finally cured it with spring conversions.

I also have seen the air spring cartridge needing additional lube as a set of mine was sticking from the factory and would not compress or rebound with out sticking. It was so bad that you could hear it.
Grouper wrote:
I'll definitely be doing some inspecting then. What are some signs that I'm having hyper stiction like that? Aside from the obvious. The deal with the...
I'll definitely be doing some inspecting then. What are some signs that I'm having hyper stiction like that? Aside from the obvious.

The deal with the sag is kind of screwy.. I set my sag and accidentally measured the 105mm/4.125" from full droop and not from static sag. So the sag was set from sitting on the stand from sitting on the ground with me on it. When I realized that I was in my gear about to go ride it for the first time so I just loosened it up about one turn and ran it. I was just breaking it in anyways, riding slow. I'm going to re-do it all this week or weekend since the weather sucks. There's a fair amount of preload left too so I believe I can get it set. I spoke with FC over lunch and they also recommended a 5.2.

What are the options for spring conversions? Is it drop in cartridges? One-off work? Typical pricing? I have truly no clue so be detailed if you want. I'm kind of discouraged because I truly would have bought a Suzuki for 6k if I thought I was going to turn around and sink a lot of money back into a bike. I was hoping to buy the right shock spring and go rip ):
If you pull the air chamber out of the left fork and compress it you’ll be able to tell if it has any issues. It should...
If you pull the air chamber out of the left fork and compress it you’ll be able to tell if it has any issues. It should compress and extend smoothly. Mine was so bad on the compression stroke you could hear it catch and would have to forcefully compress it.

You measured your sag correctly. “Race sag” is the difference between on the stand and with the rider mounted. “Static sag” is how much sag the bike has from its own weight, too much static and the spring is too light, too little and the spring is too heavy.

105 is a pretty ideal starting point, and likely the correct spring.

I have a del soggio spring conversion in one bike and k-tech in another. Using .88kg springs in each. I like the k-tech better, it’s a little more thought-out in its design and simplicity. If you watch here and Facebook you can get used single spring conversions for $250-$400. New they are $500-700.

If you end up parting with that 5.0 I’d buy it from ya
I did the k-tech on my 19 without revalve then sold the bike . I now have a 22 350 and wondering if doing the same with revalve this time . Also considering to just get the Lucky's or kyb . I hate to drop that much coin on suspension but I have a Kx 450 and that suspension is awesome . So when I ride both I get frustrated the the 350 suspension.
hawk101
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PA US
3/22/2022 4:23pm
Have you broken in the forks yet?

Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it could be a lot better. Looking at similar options to what you've mentioned including the coppersmith hybrid system.
wrc777
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3/24/2022 8:32am
hawk101 wrote:
Have you broken in the forks yet? Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it...
Have you broken in the forks yet?

Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it could be a lot better. Looking at similar options to what you've mentioned including the coppersmith hybrid system.
For me 8 hours is not enough to break them in. I feel like they smooth out for at least the first 20 hours, but I am a slower rider and don't do many jumps. It depends how hard you ride I think. I believe Keefer says around 8 hours and he is a faster rider, and I think CA tracks are pretty choppy. For a slower rider on the east coast maybe it takes 15 hours? The main thing I notice is the forks just seem to move better.
StevenMX
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3/24/2022 9:18am
hawk101 wrote:
Have you broken in the forks yet? Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it...
Have you broken in the forks yet?

Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it could be a lot better. Looking at similar options to what you've mentioned including the coppersmith hybrid system.
I've got about 8 hrs now on my 22 FE KTM 250SXF and the forks feel plush now to me. I'd say they are broken in. Check out Keefer testing or if you watch Ping's Race Spec: 2022 KTM 250sx-f factory edition he goes over specifically air fork suspension adjustments he makes to get the bike to feel more comfortable for him. What would you like more comfort on exactly? Things like setting air pressure or playing with it make a big difference, adjusting sag obviously, then you can tweak all the clickers as well. Ping's new video really describes I think what many people miss on the air forks and that is the idea of lowering air pressure would give a "softer" ride when in reality it makes it harsh. Instead, pump/increase that air pressure up to keep the forks in the right area of the stroke, and you'll find a plush ride. Then adjust the clickers for the little small bump compliance/comfort depending on terrain.

I'm about to begin adjusting all my suspension (bone stock WP AER forks) now that I've broken them in, so will report back when I find some settings that are dialed in. Just using standard settings from the manual and air at 155psi it's really not bad at all, I'd say maybe smoothing out the small chop a little more (which can be done with clicker adjustments) is my next step... otherwise they are really nice feeling.
GD350
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Plymouth , MO US
3/24/2022 6:41pm
Does anyone have a chart for what the stock valving is set at from the factory for a 21 350sxf. Like if I'm a 175lb B rider it would be pointless to get the forks revalved if it was already valved for that weight\speed wouldn't it?
StevenMX
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3/24/2022 7:15pm
GD350 wrote:
Does anyone have a chart for what the stock valving is set at from the factory for a 21 350sxf. Like if I'm a 175lb B...
Does anyone have a chart for what the stock valving is set at from the factory for a 21 350sxf. Like if I'm a 175lb B rider it would be pointless to get the forks revalved if it was already valved for that weight\speed wouldn't it?
Unfortunately it isn't that simple... but from both the 21 KTM 250SX and 22 KTM 250SX-F that I have they are set standard/stock for 165-187lb (with full equipment on)... so more like ~150-170 range minus helmet/boots/chest protector, etc. This means the shock in the back is 42Nm although I've heard some 350s (Gasgas has a 45Nm?)... With the air fork as well, it's fork air pressure that is your spring rate. I'd wager you can get it to work well for any rider (C to A class) but it's highly variable how you are going to adjust the clickers to achieve that individual feel. More than likely an A class rider has years of experience and knows the exact feel they are after and if a revalve is possible (and usually they know before they even get the bike what forks/upgrade they are doing).... where a C rider may not, and spending that money up front may not be the best use of resources.

You have a couple things to consider as well... with all the variables in tuning and rider preference, I'm not sure you could easily just say "It's 175lb B class rider"... because what one person says B, another might be like no he is a C or A rider. Secondly... you got MX, trails, enduro type riders, all different valving potentially... Within even the weight range, some riders have valving drastically different among same weight and rider class.

Only way to know is get the bike, ride it/break in the suspension and spend a little time with the many adjustments available on them to start. You'd be surprised how nice you can make it feel stock if you are within at least the weight range for the standard shock with 105mm sag and the static sag set within a good range. From there it's little things that maybe you can't quite get from the clicker adjustments that a suspension shop like WP, Factory Connections, Enzo, JBI, or other places can fine tune by calling and talking to the techs. The new 21/22/23 WP AER suspension is highly tunable and can definitely be ridden without a revalve for a fairly broad range of riders within the specific weight criteria they post in the manual.
mxstate
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FL US
3/25/2022 4:04am
StevenMX wrote:
Unfortunately it isn't that simple... but from both the 21 KTM 250SX and 22 KTM 250SX-F that I have they are set standard/stock for 165-187lb (with...
Unfortunately it isn't that simple... but from both the 21 KTM 250SX and 22 KTM 250SX-F that I have they are set standard/stock for 165-187lb (with full equipment on)... so more like ~150-170 range minus helmet/boots/chest protector, etc. This means the shock in the back is 42Nm although I've heard some 350s (Gasgas has a 45Nm?)... With the air fork as well, it's fork air pressure that is your spring rate. I'd wager you can get it to work well for any rider (C to A class) but it's highly variable how you are going to adjust the clickers to achieve that individual feel. More than likely an A class rider has years of experience and knows the exact feel they are after and if a revalve is possible (and usually they know before they even get the bike what forks/upgrade they are doing).... where a C rider may not, and spending that money up front may not be the best use of resources.

You have a couple things to consider as well... with all the variables in tuning and rider preference, I'm not sure you could easily just say "It's 175lb B class rider"... because what one person says B, another might be like no he is a C or A rider. Secondly... you got MX, trails, enduro type riders, all different valving potentially... Within even the weight range, some riders have valving drastically different among same weight and rider class.

Only way to know is get the bike, ride it/break in the suspension and spend a little time with the many adjustments available on them to start. You'd be surprised how nice you can make it feel stock if you are within at least the weight range for the standard shock with 105mm sag and the static sag set within a good range. From there it's little things that maybe you can't quite get from the clicker adjustments that a suspension shop like WP, Factory Connections, Enzo, JBI, or other places can fine tune by calling and talking to the techs. The new 21/22/23 WP AER suspension is highly tunable and can definitely be ridden without a revalve for a fairly broad range of riders within the specific weight criteria they post in the manual.
I just got a 22 GasGas MC250
5 hours on it now , 55 y/o Vet C
The forks are not bad at all but I learned that balance is the key and if the rear is not set properly, the front won’t feel right or not good as it could be .
The spring rate choices from the Austrians puzzle me though. Seems more a way for the group to save $ by buying large qties of the same rate than anything else .
The 450F is spec’d with a 42 , and so is my 250 2stroke.
I’m 210ish and a 48 barely give me good sag numbers
Steven’s right and stock can be made to work with proper adjustment .
I think there’s a line for the shock when drastic rate change will also require a revalve. ( and I might be past that line )
The AER came a long way and offer tons of adjustability.
1
GD350
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Plymouth , MO US
3/25/2022 4:17am
Okay thanks, I was hoping there was like a flow chart 📉 or something to see where it's at currently
hawk101
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5/11/2022 7:47pm Edited Date/Time 5/11/2022 7:50pm
hawk101 wrote:
Have you broken in the forks yet? Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it...
Have you broken in the forks yet?

Just curious. I've got a 22 MC350 with 8 hrs. Feels pretty good, but I'm left wondering if it could be a lot better. Looking at similar options to what you've mentioned including the coppersmith hybrid system.
StevenMX wrote:
I've got about 8 hrs now on my 22 FE KTM 250SXF and the forks feel plush now to me. I'd say they are broken in...
I've got about 8 hrs now on my 22 FE KTM 250SXF and the forks feel plush now to me. I'd say they are broken in. Check out Keefer testing or if you watch Ping's Race Spec: 2022 KTM 250sx-f factory edition he goes over specifically air fork suspension adjustments he makes to get the bike to feel more comfortable for him. What would you like more comfort on exactly? Things like setting air pressure or playing with it make a big difference, adjusting sag obviously, then you can tweak all the clickers as well. Ping's new video really describes I think what many people miss on the air forks and that is the idea of lowering air pressure would give a "softer" ride when in reality it makes it harsh. Instead, pump/increase that air pressure up to keep the forks in the right area of the stroke, and you'll find a plush ride. Then adjust the clickers for the little small bump compliance/comfort depending on terrain.

I'm about to begin adjusting all my suspension (bone stock WP AER forks) now that I've broken them in, so will report back when I find some settings that are dialed in. Just using standard settings from the manual and air at 155psi it's really not bad at all, I'd say maybe smoothing out the small chop a little more (which can be done with clicker adjustments) is my next step... otherwise they are really nice feeling.
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications?

I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most situations, but big consecutive braking bumps I really have to accelerate through or get my butt back. Those bumps really only develop on race days, so are harder to test with.

Looking at revalve/spring conversions options. I'm on a tight budget, so making the forks work stock is much preferred. Also looked at the JBI pro valving DIY, but can't find any reviews

Weight: 160lb w/gear
Skill: Local midpack C
Type: Motocross Only

Fork:

Pressure: 150psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.25
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 10

Static Sag: 39mm
Race Sag: 105mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
5/11/2022 9:05pm
Grouper wrote:
resurrecting this. Hoping for some discussion about XACT settings. I want to preface with the bike has about one hour on it so things will change...
resurrecting this. Hoping for some discussion about XACT settings. I want to preface with the bike has about one hour on it so things will change, but I want to see if anyone else is having trouble with harsh initial stroke, particularly with the front wheel "slapping" on landings. Any tips and setups are appreciated. Just looking to learn and gain some direction.

2022 MC350f
148 PSI
5.0 Rear spring rate
Stock Clickers
Sag: like 100 (dont ask.. oops)
205lb, 250B/250 Open/college
I’m case you come across this old post 148 psi is to low for you. I’m 175 without gear and run my forks at 153 psi. Too low of pressure will cause it to ride low in the stroke and make it feel harsh and on slap down landings.
AJ565
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5/11/2022 9:11pm
hawk101 wrote:
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications? I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most...
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications?

I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most situations, but big consecutive braking bumps I really have to accelerate through or get my butt back. Those bumps really only develop on race days, so are harder to test with.

Looking at revalve/spring conversions options. I'm on a tight budget, so making the forks work stock is much preferred. Also looked at the JBI pro valving DIY, but can't find any reviews

Weight: 160lb w/gear
Skill: Local midpack C
Type: Motocross Only

Fork:

Pressure: 150psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.25
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 10

Static Sag: 39mm
Race Sag: 105mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag to 103mm. In the front 150 sounds a bit much for your weight and speed. Try lower pressure, maybe 147 and see how it feels.
hawk101
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PA US
5/12/2022 5:46am
hawk101 wrote:
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications? I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most...
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications?

I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most situations, but big consecutive braking bumps I really have to accelerate through or get my butt back. Those bumps really only develop on race days, so are harder to test with.

Looking at revalve/spring conversions options. I'm on a tight budget, so making the forks work stock is much preferred. Also looked at the JBI pro valving DIY, but can't find any reviews

Weight: 160lb w/gear
Skill: Local midpack C
Type: Motocross Only

Fork:

Pressure: 150psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.25
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 10

Static Sag: 39mm
Race Sag: 105mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm
AJ565 wrote:
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag...
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag to 103mm. In the front 150 sounds a bit much for your weight and speed. Try lower pressure, maybe 147 and see how it feels.
Thank you! I'll give those a try.

I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps. Perhaps that was just an issue while breaking in? A lot of testers recommended going in 1/4 and definitely helped. I think the intent is to keep the shock higher in the stroke.

I take it your suggestion is to increase shock movement, correct the corresponding lower rear feel with less sag, and help the rear recover faster with less rebound damping? Will those settings help the forks at all or mainly just the shock?
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
5/12/2022 7:41am Edited Date/Time 5/12/2022 7:41am
hawk101 wrote:
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications? I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most...
What settings did you end up going with/any modifications?

I've got 15 hrs on mine right now. With the below settings. Bike feels good in most situations, but big consecutive braking bumps I really have to accelerate through or get my butt back. Those bumps really only develop on race days, so are harder to test with.

Looking at revalve/spring conversions options. I'm on a tight budget, so making the forks work stock is much preferred. Also looked at the JBI pro valving DIY, but can't find any reviews

Weight: 160lb w/gear
Skill: Local midpack C
Type: Motocross Only

Fork:

Pressure: 150psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.25
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 10

Static Sag: 39mm
Race Sag: 105mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm
AJ565 wrote:
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag...
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag to 103mm. In the front 150 sounds a bit much for your weight and speed. Try lower pressure, maybe 147 and see how it feels.
hawk101 wrote:
Thank you! I'll give those a try. I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps...
Thank you! I'll give those a try.

I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps. Perhaps that was just an issue while breaking in? A lot of testers recommended going in 1/4 and definitely helped. I think the intent is to keep the shock higher in the stroke.

I take it your suggestion is to increase shock movement, correct the corresponding lower rear feel with less sag, and help the rear recover faster with less rebound damping? Will those settings help the forks at all or mainly just the shock?
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure.

Personally what I’ve seen with the shock is it will pack up (rebound too slow. Slow mo video helps identify this problem) with big braking bumps and cause the rear to hop side to side. The other is too stiff of rear high speed.

“A high feeling in these situations, or hitting these whoops or bumps and instantly deflecting off them, indicates that your rear suspension is too stiff.”

https://motocrossactionmag.com/amp/bones-bacon-on-suspension-high-speed…
1
hawk101
Posts
75
Joined
3/30/2020
Location
PA US
5/21/2022 7:44pm
AJ565 wrote:
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag...
Open the high speed 1/2 turn when the track gets really rough. Also go 1-2 more clicks out on the rear rebound and set the sag to 103mm. In the front 150 sounds a bit much for your weight and speed. Try lower pressure, maybe 147 and see how it feels.
hawk101 wrote:
Thank you! I'll give those a try. I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps...
Thank you! I'll give those a try.

I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps. Perhaps that was just an issue while breaking in? A lot of testers recommended going in 1/4 and definitely helped. I think the intent is to keep the shock higher in the stroke.

I take it your suggestion is to increase shock movement, correct the corresponding lower rear feel with less sag, and help the rear recover faster with less rebound damping? Will those settings help the forks at all or mainly just the shock?
AJ565 wrote:
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure. Personally what...
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure.

Personally what I’ve seen with the shock is it will pack up (rebound too slow. Slow mo video helps identify this problem) with big braking bumps and cause the rear to hop side to side. The other is too stiff of rear high speed.

“A high feeling in these situations, or hitting these whoops or bumps and instantly deflecting off them, indicates that your rear suspension is too stiff.”

https://motocrossactionmag.com/amp/bones-bacon-on-suspension-high-speed…
I got a track day in to test the suggested settings and ended up with the final settings below. The fork pressure will probably be increased to 143-144psi next time as I felt a slight harshness. The track wasn't super rough so more testing is needed.The only thing I'm not super happy about is the rear tends to move a lot on jump faces (to the left or right) and I have to correct in the air. Not all the time, but much more than previous. It feels like losing traction on the face. I might add more rebound damping to reduce the effect. What are your thoughts? Perhaps I just need a bit less HS, so go in 1/8?

Fork:

Pressure: 140psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.75
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 12

Static Sag: 36mm
Race Sag: 102mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm

Brief Testing Summary:

Initially, I went out on HS and rebound. The shock was much more compliant over breaking and acceleration bumps. The slight kick I've been experiencing on steep jumps was also gone. However, the bike resisted initial lean in for turns so badly that I pulled off the track thinking something was wrong! Never experienced that before. Also, I needed a lot more throttle to make jumps as the rear was sucking up power.

I adjusted the sag from 105mm to 102mm and the resistance to initial lean disappeared and I got better drive to the rear.

Next I noticed the forks were stiff compared to the shock, so I reduced the pressure from 150psi to 146psi and then to 140psi. The forks started moving and provided more comfort. Coming up short on jumps was less comfortable, but acceptable.
AJ565
Posts
2320
Joined
3/12/2012
Location
San Antonio, TX US
5/22/2022 11:15am
hawk101 wrote:
Thank you! I'll give those a try. I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps...
Thank you! I'll give those a try.

I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps. Perhaps that was just an issue while breaking in? A lot of testers recommended going in 1/4 and definitely helped. I think the intent is to keep the shock higher in the stroke.

I take it your suggestion is to increase shock movement, correct the corresponding lower rear feel with less sag, and help the rear recover faster with less rebound damping? Will those settings help the forks at all or mainly just the shock?
AJ565 wrote:
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure. Personally what...
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure.

Personally what I’ve seen with the shock is it will pack up (rebound too slow. Slow mo video helps identify this problem) with big braking bumps and cause the rear to hop side to side. The other is too stiff of rear high speed.

“A high feeling in these situations, or hitting these whoops or bumps and instantly deflecting off them, indicates that your rear suspension is too stiff.”

https://motocrossactionmag.com/amp/bones-bacon-on-suspension-high-speed…
hawk101 wrote:
I got a track day in to test the suggested settings and ended up with the final settings below. The fork pressure will probably be increased...
I got a track day in to test the suggested settings and ended up with the final settings below. The fork pressure will probably be increased to 143-144psi next time as I felt a slight harshness. The track wasn't super rough so more testing is needed.The only thing I'm not super happy about is the rear tends to move a lot on jump faces (to the left or right) and I have to correct in the air. Not all the time, but much more than previous. It feels like losing traction on the face. I might add more rebound damping to reduce the effect. What are your thoughts? Perhaps I just need a bit less HS, so go in 1/8?

Fork:

Pressure: 140psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.75
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 12

Static Sag: 36mm
Race Sag: 102mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm

Brief Testing Summary:

Initially, I went out on HS and rebound. The shock was much more compliant over breaking and acceleration bumps. The slight kick I've been experiencing on steep jumps was also gone. However, the bike resisted initial lean in for turns so badly that I pulled off the track thinking something was wrong! Never experienced that before. Also, I needed a lot more throttle to make jumps as the rear was sucking up power.

I adjusted the sag from 105mm to 102mm and the resistance to initial lean disappeared and I got better drive to the rear.

Next I noticed the forks were stiff compared to the shock, so I reduced the pressure from 150psi to 146psi and then to 140psi. The forks started moving and provided more comfort. Coming up short on jumps was less comfortable, but acceptable.
Sounds like the rebound might be too fast. Maybe try 1 or two clicks in and see what happens.
1
willbilly
Posts
405
Joined
6/28/2016
Location
Corpus Christi, TX US
5/22/2022 1:13pm
Deflection from side to side is usually the result of “packing”. When you G out on the jump face, then hit chatter, too much rebound doesn’t allow the shock to unload/extend and it deflects side to side. Also only make one adjustment at a time.
aees
Posts
2685
Joined
8/20/2015
Location
US
5/22/2022 1:19pm
hawk101 wrote:
Thank you! I'll give those a try. I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps...
Thank you! I'll give those a try.

I originally went in 1/4 on high speed as the rear was bouncing/not tracking on acceleration bumps before jumps. Perhaps that was just an issue while breaking in? A lot of testers recommended going in 1/4 and definitely helped. I think the intent is to keep the shock higher in the stroke.

I take it your suggestion is to increase shock movement, correct the corresponding lower rear feel with less sag, and help the rear recover faster with less rebound damping? Will those settings help the forks at all or mainly just the shock?
AJ565 wrote:
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure. Personally what...
They effect each other so you’ll need to ride it and see how it feels. The fork clickers look right, just too much pressure.

Personally what I’ve seen with the shock is it will pack up (rebound too slow. Slow mo video helps identify this problem) with big braking bumps and cause the rear to hop side to side. The other is too stiff of rear high speed.

“A high feeling in these situations, or hitting these whoops or bumps and instantly deflecting off them, indicates that your rear suspension is too stiff.”

https://motocrossactionmag.com/amp/bones-bacon-on-suspension-high-speed…
hawk101 wrote:
I got a track day in to test the suggested settings and ended up with the final settings below. The fork pressure will probably be increased...
I got a track day in to test the suggested settings and ended up with the final settings below. The fork pressure will probably be increased to 143-144psi next time as I felt a slight harshness. The track wasn't super rough so more testing is needed.The only thing I'm not super happy about is the rear tends to move a lot on jump faces (to the left or right) and I have to correct in the air. Not all the time, but much more than previous. It feels like losing traction on the face. I might add more rebound damping to reduce the effect. What are your thoughts? Perhaps I just need a bit less HS, so go in 1/8?

Fork:

Pressure: 140psi
Comp: 12
Reb: 13
Fork height: 2nd line

Shock:

High speed: 1.75
Low speed: 15
Rebound: 12

Static Sag: 36mm
Race Sag: 102mm (standing)
Spring Rate: 39Nm

Brief Testing Summary:

Initially, I went out on HS and rebound. The shock was much more compliant over breaking and acceleration bumps. The slight kick I've been experiencing on steep jumps was also gone. However, the bike resisted initial lean in for turns so badly that I pulled off the track thinking something was wrong! Never experienced that before. Also, I needed a lot more throttle to make jumps as the rear was sucking up power.

I adjusted the sag from 105mm to 102mm and the resistance to initial lean disappeared and I got better drive to the rear.

Next I noticed the forks were stiff compared to the shock, so I reduced the pressure from 150psi to 146psi and then to 140psi. The forks started moving and provided more comfort. Coming up short on jumps was less comfortable, but acceptable.
The kicking on jump faces is because you have to little high speed damping. You run out of stroke and the only thing left is for the shock to start rebound, unless you continue to hold the rear down all the way through, which only is the case typically when riding rough sandtracks being over rear on the bike on for example speed jumps.

So stiffer spring or go back to 1.5hsc.

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