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Hello, I'm 140lb and I have respring my bike with 0.44 springs in the fork and a 5.2 kg/mm in the shock, like RT calculator recommend.
I have 105 mm of sag and 1.5 turs out in the HSC but the rear of the bike feels low, harsh and bottoms in g-outs so I turn in 1/4 of turn the HSC and the bike feels better in g-outs but the rear feels more high and the front end it's become twitchy! Can I compesate the HSC increments dropping a little bit the SAG? What can I do for set the bike at the better? I hope you guys can give me some advises!
I have 105 mm of sag and 1.5 turs out in the HSC but the rear of the bike feels low, harsh and bottoms in g-outs so I turn in 1/4 of turn the HSC and the bike feels better in g-outs but the rear feels more high and the front end it's become twitchy! Can I compesate the HSC increments dropping a little bit the SAG? What can I do for set the bike at the better? I hope you guys can give me some advises!
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For handling purposes, you would be better off adjusting the fork height, assuming you like the feel of your shock.
The RT spring calculator assumes you are using their valving specs...You probably want to use stock fork springs or maybe 1 rate softer. You are about at the target weight for a 250f.
If your bottoming in G outs Id try increasing the rear shock compression. HSC is more for fast hard reactions, think bucking and chop on strait a ways, that's the way I tend to think about it.
I had to do quite a bit to get this same chassis to settle.
I run a lowering link from Devol on their recommended setting. Im about 5mm up in the clamps on the forks. However; the biggest difference was when I removed 10cc of oil from the forks and added the SDI pro perches. The Pro Perch isnt necessary at all but allows you to run lower oil while maintaining bottoming resistance off big hits.
I run my HSC about a 1 1/4 turn out. HSC will effect the ride height of the rear to some extent. You should set sag first and proceed to set ur HSC at stock. Find where you like your compression and then come back and fine tune ur HSC. Also may want to verify you rebound settings. Its possible your rebound is slow and creating a packing effect. Its all about even weight bias and getting the bike level and working equally front and back. Watch video if you have too.
Having your bars in the front position is best. If you have them in the closest to rider position it will really mess with things.
Really? Why? I have it in the closest rider position
But frame ergos matter. Spring rate, sag, how far back you rear wheel is, how high are your forks in the clamps etc all have significant impact on how the bike reacts at speed. If you have a twitchy front end I often read that as to much weight on the front. You can alter that in a variety of methods. Start with one change at a time. Go back to stock recommendations and start working thru it. Either your rear is to stiff putting load on the front, or your front is to soft, maybe both. The yz of this generation is known for the stinkbug stance out of the box. Record your current settings before you go back to stock so you have a pt of reference.
By placing the bars in front of the forks or behind the forks you alter the turn in geometry significantly. I'm only 5'10" and I initially moved the bars back bc it felt awkward in the front position. First thing I did to try and improve things was move the bars back to the front and found a bend that was more suitable, this helped a bit. The bike became far more predictable after that. Then I added the lowering link and raised the forks to the 5.5mm This got the overall bike squatting more level and performed much better thru corners and ruts.
If you want to find good settings you have to try different things. Its pretty well known that the best place to start with your bars is centered over the forks, I'm speaking to my experience with this particular chassis.
My rebound it's set to -14 front/rear pretty far from stock that's -7 front -9 rear. Suspension makes me confused 😅
Pit Row
If that doesn't give you the results you want go back to the prior compression setting and try turning the HSC in 1/4 turn or less. Most ppl don't realize how sensitive HSC can be.
Moving the rear when back does a few things.
1.) It puts more leverage back into the shock shaft altering how the shock works under the same settings.
2.) Gives you a wider wheel base which can stabilize the bike on fast straights.
-If you move the rear wheel in closer to the pegs its going to decrease the wheel base and leverage, consequently makes the bike more front bais and can help turn in in some instances.
Keeping all this in mind.... these are small incremental movements we are talking about. Its all about balance and working in sync front and back. I tend to run my wheel middle to back of bike. Mark any current setting prior to changing. Otherwise you will just be chasing your tail.
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