Amsoil Sabre Synthetic Oil

This is a spring-loaded question given many VitalMX'ers push their bikes to the limits and true, race-grade oils are a necessity for engine survival - including powervalve operation.

The oil you're using is for handheld lawncare equipment, etc.

Could it work under certain circumstances, absolutely. And it sounds like it is. But ...

My reply is simply a "be careful - if you go beyond this oil's capabilities - which your YZ's intended application is - you could have catastrophic results. I personally think it's a bad idea."

Just like it could be argued straight water is the best coolant ... well, there are other important factors such as freeze protection, corrosion protection, etc.

Recommendation:
Use an oil designed for your YZ250 application and call it a day. If you don't, sooner or later you'll come to realize why you should have. High-performance, application-specific oils are developed because equipment failures occur when lubrication fails to meet application needs. It's that simple.

I am probably getting punk'd here, but in case not, seriously rethink this.

Well, explain to us why you'd choose this oil over an MX-intended oil anyway? Saving money by using half the oil? What other benefit could there be?

I know of a few guys running it with good results, im not to sure of it myself but if it works for you then go for it.

I have no experience with it but I will say I have used Amsoil Dominator (at 40:1 & 50:1) for years and have had great results.

I’d be wary personally, but if it’s good in a weed whacker or blower that is wide open all day every day perhaps you’re fine. I’m a motul guy these days, but I will second that dominator is a solid oil. I ran it for years at 44:1 or 50:1 and never once had a failure. So take that for what it’s worth.

I ran a few bottles of Sabre in my YZ250 back in about 2010 without any failures at 60 or 80:1 (I don't recall exactly). That was running it WOT a lot of the time on a twin-ring piston on west coast offroad racing, so under some pretty conditions. I'd run it again if I could get a deal on it, but I'd probably prefer a 'conventional' oil at the 30-50:1 range.

The only reason I can see to run it would be for some cost savings or emissions ... not really reasons that racers care much about.

Maybe it's marketing, but I'm coming around to the idea of more oil is more power and less wear.

Years ago I ran that amsoil saber oil at 100:1 in a lawn boy push mower and it seized. I never had a two stroke seize before until then. Idk maybe a coincidence but I wouldn’t risk it again at those lean oil ratios

I have used amzoil dominator and sabre in my 250sx and buy either one based on my dealers inventory. Mix them at 50:1. Got over 400 hours on bottom end.

Has anyone dared to try that true fuel? Has a few different ratios and is 91 or 98 octane.

That’s a lot on a crank! Piston looks real good.

I’m a “worst case scenario” person so when someone asks “Should I replace X? It looks/feels fine” when it’s past the recommended service limit I always think “I’d really hate to have it lock up on the face of a jump”.

I’m over the top with shit like this though, guys go far longer with far worse maintenance than you and are fine for years, but at that many hours I would say that crank owes you nothing and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to get it replaced/rebuilt, along with some new crank bearings and seals and piston.

I run dominator in my 250sx and have 113 hours on the stock crank. I replaced my piston and ring at 90 hours just because. It still tested 250psi of compression and everything looked really good. I’ve been using that oil in every 2 stroke I’ve owned since 2009 and never had a failure.

Back on the Saber oil; I remember when we all ran 20:1 then they came out with those new 50:1 oils. Everyone was sure the engines would blow up at those ratios.

You are getting some crazy life with that oil. Pretty awesome. We probably also need a documentary on your air filter service as that has to be impeccable!

I run Maxima Super-M in my 125. I've switched back and forth with K2 a few times and it is never quite as clean and crisp as Super-M, always has a hint of drool. And my jetting is spot on and I am getting PLENTY of heat in the pipe.... LOL I assumed that K2 had a slightly higher flash point, that is the impression it gives. but the specs say it's actually slightly lower. Theory vs. Practice.

I use dominator and sabre as well. I buy what my local dealership has stocked at that moment.

I have a 2014 250sx and got over 400 hours (hour meter) on my oem cylinder and oem crank with 3 piston/ring replacments. When i finally decided to replace the crank and cylinder, the cylinder was down to pure aluminum - no nikisil coating left. I bet the crank would be ok to keep going for another 200 hours but i replaced it anyway since the hours were high and in the mood for some tinkering. The KTM engine is resilient. Proper air filter maintenance and good premix oil is likely why it lasted so long.

I know many recommend that the components be replaced much earlier but i am a kinda guy the drives my stuff into the ground and dont fix what aint broke. I am also cheap :-) and a broken 2t motor isnt expensive to correct so i just let it keep going.
Edit: changed 600hours (typo) to 400 hours