2020 KX 450 - 1 hr put on. Ready to Change oil. Should i run a break in oil?

cripdog255
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Mohave Valley, AZ, USA
A friend of mine is suggesting that I run a break in oil for the first 5 hours on this new bike. My manual doesn’t say break in oil is required.. I know there’s a million bike break in methods, but fire away. (Ps. Bike is still slightly smoking) but my oil levels seem fine so I’m assuming the rings are still seating.. or perhaps not? Any advice is appreciated.
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6/2/2020 9:58am
Anyone remember the mxa article where Yamaha had a granny that started every 450 on a dyno and ripped through the gears?

Done already been broke in. I’d worry more about casting flaws and gasket/silicone in the oil galleries.
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Broseph
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Stevenson, WA, USA
6/2/2020 10:06am
cripdog255 wrote:
A friend of mine is suggesting that I run a break in oil for the first 5 hours on this new bike. My manual doesn’t say...
A friend of mine is suggesting that I run a break in oil for the first 5 hours on this new bike. My manual doesn’t say break in oil is required.. I know there’s a million bike break in methods, but fire away. (Ps. Bike is still slightly smoking) but my oil levels seem fine so I’m assuming the rings are still seating.. or perhaps not? Any advice is appreciated.
Break in oil usually contains a bunch of extreme pressure additives to keep flat tappet cams from galling. There’s a possibility your clutch plates won’t like these additives. I’d skip the break in oil and just run something similar to what the manual recommends.
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RGaede
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6/2/2020 10:39am
What your draining out is kawis break in oil.
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cripdog255
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6/2/2020 10:58am
RGaede wrote:
What your draining out is kawis break in oil.
So that’s It? one and done?You're saying it Shouldn’t need any more break in oil after that first go around correct?
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The Shop

RGaede
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6/2/2020 11:17am
Follow the owner's manual. My 16 and 19 said to drain after 1 hour, and put in one of the specified oils. Personally i went to the recommended Castrol 5-40 full synthetic motorcycle oil.
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ctbale
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6/2/2020 11:39am
If it was mine, I would drain that oil hot, then find the correct weight and spec in a non synthetic for 1 or 2 hrs, drop that and then run your favorite brand and away you go. But thats just me
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Falcon
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6/2/2020 2:14pm
ctbale wrote:
If it was mine, I would drain that oil hot, then find the correct weight and spec in a non synthetic for 1 or 2 hrs...
If it was mine, I would drain that oil hot, then find the correct weight and spec in a non synthetic for 1 or 2 hrs, drop that and then run your favorite brand and away you go. But thats just me
It's not just you. That's what I'd do too.
1
sf702/410
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6/2/2020 2:33pm
I'd do exactly what the manual says. Those engineers know more than us. Break in oils contain high levels of zinc to provide an extra cushion of lubricant for rotating parts. It's a necessity for flat tappet cam engines prior to the technology advancing to roller camps. However the differentiation comes with that clutch as stated above. The two compounds may not mix well and might cause deterioration resulting in the very outcome you're hoping to avoid. Run the recommended oil, (I'm assuming synthetic) to avoid the oil lubrication properties from breaking down from high rpm heat production. Again, conventional is good but not for long at high temp. And who knows what materials each motor component is made of.
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davidgrip
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6/2/2020 3:04pm
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break in process in the manual. I am running Maxima Pro Plus 10W40. In the manual that comes with the bike, says the drain plug torque is 10 Nm, it should be 20 Nm or 15ftlbs.

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tobz
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Adelaide, AU
6/2/2020 3:15pm
ctbale wrote:
If it was mine, I would drain that oil hot, then find the correct weight and spec in a non synthetic for 1 or 2 hrs...
If it was mine, I would drain that oil hot, then find the correct weight and spec in a non synthetic for 1 or 2 hrs, drop that and then run your favorite brand and away you go. But thats just me
This is what is common practice around here.

At the moment on my 2020 I’ll run 4 litres of mineral oil through it, then turn to full synthetic that I’ll run from then on.
6/2/2020 3:36pm
"Easy break in" is a myth. You WANT large throttle openings to create pressure against the rings to make them wear properly to the cross hatched cylinder. You DON"T want to redline it though, and you DON"T want to lug it. Ride it hard, let engine rpm slow you down by downshifting appropriately so that the vacuum created "sucks" ring filings off and out. Use your regular oil as specified in the manual, change it after "break in" of about 20 minutes, then race that bitch.
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Indy mxer
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6/2/2020 3:44pm
thephoenix wrote:
"Easy break in" is a myth. You WANT large throttle openings to create pressure against the rings to make them wear properly to the cross hatched...
"Easy break in" is a myth. You WANT large throttle openings to create pressure against the rings to make them wear properly to the cross hatched cylinder. You DON"T want to redline it though, and you DON"T want to lug it. Ride it hard, let engine rpm slow you down by downshifting appropriately so that the vacuum created "sucks" ring filings off and out. Use your regular oil as specified in the manual, change it after "break in" of about 20 minutes, then race that bitch.
Yep. I've bought a number of new KX's over the years. I just ride it normal right off the bat. But I don't ring the hell out of it.
After a couple hours I change oil and filter. Good to go from then on. Don't over think it.
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12/7/2020 5:55am
davidgrip wrote:
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break...
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break in process in the manual. I am running Maxima Pro Plus 10W40. In the manual that comes with the bike, says the drain plug torque is 10 Nm, it should be 20 Nm or 15ftlbs.

I have a 21 kx 450 and put in the recommended oil but still nothing shows on the sight glass. Had this problem with my 12 kx 250 could anyone tell me a safe amount
1
fourfourone
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86oh, CT, USA
12/7/2020 6:21am
davidgrip wrote:
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break...
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break in process in the manual. I am running Maxima Pro Plus 10W40. In the manual that comes with the bike, says the drain plug torque is 10 Nm, it should be 20 Nm or 15ftlbs.

I have a 21 kx 450 and put in the recommended oil but still nothing shows on the sight glass. Had this problem with my 12...
I have a 21 kx 450 and put in the recommended oil but still nothing shows on the sight glass. Had this problem with my 12 kx 250 could anyone tell me a safe amount
Get a proper measuring cup and put in the amount the manual says. Kawis are notorious for giving odd sight glass readings.
4
Moto520
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12/7/2020 7:52am
i would change the oil often for the first couple of rides. If using cheaper oil makes it justifiable to change the oil more often....i would do that.
12/7/2020 8:22am
davidgrip wrote:
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break...
At 1 hour the bike is ready to go. I changed the oil/filter in my 19, which looked perfect, at 1 hour. After following the break in process in the manual. I am running Maxima Pro Plus 10W40. In the manual that comes with the bike, says the drain plug torque is 10 Nm, it should be 20 Nm or 15ftlbs.

I have a 21 kx 450 and put in the recommended oil but still nothing shows on the sight glass. Had this problem with my 12...
I have a 21 kx 450 and put in the recommended oil but still nothing shows on the sight glass. Had this problem with my 12 kx 250 could anyone tell me a safe amount
Get a proper measuring cup and put in the amount the manual says. Kawis are notorious for giving odd sight glass readings.
I put in the recommended amount 800cc without oil filter 900 with a new one. But with the 800cc amount I do not see anything in the sight glass just don’t know how much I should put in there Bc the book tells me one think but the sight glass says another
2
cloud41
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Fantasy
12/7/2020 10:21am
Don’t make it so complicated.. ride the first moto at 75%, second moto at 85%, then it’s ready to rumble. Change the oil after the first day of riding Incase there is some metal debris.
kNewc
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12/7/2020 11:11am Edited Date/Time 12/7/2020 11:12am
I just got a brand new 2021 kx250.. I rode it for 20 minutes shifting through the gears, then another 20 riding normal, and then I changed the oil. You don't need break in oil. Local shop told me break in is a myth and to just go ride moto like normal off the show-room floor. Obviously the manual states otherwise. I think I split it half way between what the manual says and what my local shop says lol.
Yeti831
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USA
12/7/2020 1:15pm Edited Date/Time 12/7/2020 1:16pm
1) 3x heat cycles to get bike close to op temp without a load. Just running engine, no revving.

2) 1x ride under load for 30min. Try to ride the bike through the entire range. Don’t lug it, don’t rev it’s guts out, use engine decompression coming into corners to additionally help the rings seat. After 30min, change oil and filter. Vet tracks are great for this.

3) repeat step #2, but after a 1 hour ride.

4) repeat step #2, but after 2 hours.

I’ve had some tell me it’s excessive, but it’s always worked great for me.

Caveat to above: you don’t need break in oil, but DO NOT run a full synthetic until after break in 👍

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