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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Before anyone says anything, hell yes I know how to install a cable. LOL
thanks,
Gerald
Not all of it ,though. The OEM cables are all I will buy. I paid a fair amount of $$ for a single wire cable by Motion Pro, the one you would use when bypassing the oil pump, and going to premixing.
With the adjusters turned all the way in, there was virtually no free play in the cable. The inner wire cable was just a couple mm too short, IMO. I made it work with some trimming of the adjusters, everything fully bottomed.
Keep a spare upper half on hand. Even the smallest crash can sometimes break the metal elbow on the cable at the throttle housing.
The stock cables are very reasonable, and they fit without any extra engineering. Cable routing on the PW is also something you have to be careful with.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
A small bicycle pump and a bottle of soapy water. Did not even bother with plumbing in a gauge, as once the bubbles started spewing from any given area with a bit of air pumped in the engine, things were obvious as to where the leaks were.
Once the problems were addressed, another check with the hand pump and water bottle verified no leaks ,I called it good.
With such a low pressure required, I left my pump hose attached to the Schrader valve. By the time you get it disconnected, you lose your pressure.
No more than a few pumps should be necessary. 10 PSI is the max you need to put to it. Make sure you are at BDC with the piston location. This uncovers the transfers and allows the pressure to the lower end.
Don't laugh. I am a tight wad on a lot of things. I use what I have on hand if it will do what I need. Here is the set up I made in about 10 minutes.
A piece of aluminum plate (3/16- 1/4 will do), some gasket paper, a piece of heater hose, a few fittings ,and a couple of hose clamps. Leave the intake on the engine. Slip the heater hose over the intake tube opening. Slip the air adapter / fitting into the hose, and clamp everything fairly snug. Block the exhaust port with the gasket paper and plate. You may have to get a couple of short bolts, or stack some flat washers on the stock exhaust flange bolts.
When you get ready to pump some air to it, make sure you check all of your sealing at the plate, and intake hardware you have installed. It has to be air tight. Spray these areas first with the soapy water. Once you are sealed at these points, move on to the head ,base ,intake, crank seals, and the entire circumference of the case mating surfaces.
Add a few strokes of the pump as you spray if pressure seems to have been lost. If things are good and wet with the soapy water, a leak will make itself known as you add a bit of air pressure.
These basic items have allowed me to track more than one air leak on the little bikes.
There is really no need to use too high of pressure. The crank seals are not going to be able to hold back big pressure numbers. No need in stressing the seals. 10 psi is safe, no more than 15 if you want to push it a bit.
If there is a pronounced leak, the air pressure will make the soapy water solution look like a bubble bath.
On one of my PW junkers, someone had installed a YT 60 three wheeler piston, and had rechambered the head . It made about 60 psi with a stock 50 cylinder , piston.
Was the bike pretty much stock when you bought it ? Or was it somebody's old racer ? If it is sealed up, has a fairly straight bore within tolerances, and a stock head, 115 -120 psi would be about normal.
If you have a known , unmodified , stock head from the bike , try swapping heads and see what the psi numbers are.
The beveled edge of the spacer faces in, as you have it installed.
Now with that being said it starts on first kick every time and idles great in the start position, but when I switch to the run position it just runs wide open. Not sure what thats about. I remember someone saying something about being able to unhook one of the wires to bypass the switch.
Maybe I have something hooked up wrong??
I checked the throttle cable and the slide to make sure it was closing fully and it all appears to be fine.
Lil more help guys. Finally getting somewhere !!
Anyone had this issue before?
The switch will operate like normal, but no longer needs to be in the start setting to start it up. It basically bypasses the little ignition control module (box) near the airbox that retards the spark when the switch is in the start setting.
If it is running wide open with the carb slide fully bottomed (closed) , the switch bypass is not going to remedy this situation, I don't think.
Make sure the throttle cable is routed correctly, slide fully closing, carb attached to intake securely.
If all of the above is in check, and it does not respond to throttle input from the grip, an air leak somewhere is my guess.
One other thing to check is the little junction where the upper half of the throttle cable splits off into two cables, (one for the carb, the other for the oil pump.) Make sure the cables are seated in the little plastic holder where the ends attach, and that the cables moves freely in the little junction tube.
The idle screw is not turned in too far , is it ?
Pit Row
Also mine is reverse of yours. Mine revs and runs okay it only will not idle. The air screw nor the idle screw make a bit of difference. YOU can screw the idle screw all they way in and it doesn't even move the slide at all. YOu can keep it running with just a little bit of gas but that's hard for a 5 year old to understand. If i run out the cable adjuster (closest to the carb) i can get it to rev up but then it revs to high but will still slowly rev down and go dead.
Can anyone help me out? LOL BTW mine has around 120 psi compression. Just an fyi
Thanks guys
Then with the slide out of the carb, look down the slide bore as you turn the idle screw in. It should protrude out into the bore enough to make contact with the slide. Install the slide, with the carb still off the bike, and check for idle screw / slide contact.
I have seen a few slides on the PW that had a divot where the idle screw made contact from wear over time. usually a bit of light filing will smooth them out.
Edit: I got tired of f'ing with it and went and bought a brand new CRF 50 but I still wont this bike running good. I just cannot have my 5 year old grandson riding the shittest running bike at the house!! LOL
To check, take the bowl off the carb, leave the fuel line hooked to the carb, turn the fuel valve on, as gently raise the float until it stops flowing fuel. Make sure the air filter is not over oiled.
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