Technique to stop back end kicking on jump faces?

brimx153
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brimx153 2/21/2017 3:40pm
2/21/2017 3:40pm
flymoto wrote:
Thanks for all the advice, some decent pointers there. I think I do need to grip with my legs more, it just doesn't come Natural so...
Thanks for all the advice, some decent pointers there. I think I do need to grip with my legs more, it just doesn't come
Natural so always get out of the habit of doing it! I probably won't adjust my suspension too much as it's not too far off a decent setting I think. It's a crf 450 I'm riding, think it's down to me more than the bike...
from what i ve heard ,the faster you are going ,the further forward you need to be if you are seat bouncing . when you are coming out of a corner you sit back on the bike when seat bouncing .
Mit12
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Mit12 2/21/2017 4:27pm
2/21/2017 4:27pm
First off you said hitting it flat in 4th? Are you wound out or is the bike still pulling? If the bike is still pulling and the shock is not bottoming out you should not get kicked hard.
flymoto
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flymoto 2/21/2017 6:03pm
2/21/2017 6:03pm
ccullins wrote:
Here's an extreme example of a jump with a bad kicker, nothing will send a rider over the bars quicker than a tire jump. You can...
Here's an extreme example of a jump with a bad kicker, nothing will send a rider over the bars quicker than a tire jump.
You can see he approaches at a neutral Standing position on the gas. As the bike leaves the jump his weight is far back on the bike. At mid flight he goes back to a more neutral position to level the bike out.












That's really interesting. Them guys are incredibly skilled. That is extreme but it's the same principles. So I guess, if I keep my body weight back, grip with my legs, that's a decent starting point.
flymoto
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flymoto 2/21/2017 6:05pm
2/21/2017 6:05pm
Mit12 wrote:
First off you said hitting it flat in 4th? Are you wound out or is the bike still pulling? If the bike is still pulling and...
First off you said hitting it flat in 4th? Are you wound out or is the bike still pulling? If the bike is still pulling and the shock is not bottoming out you should not get kicked hard.
Still pulling but at the top of the range. It probably is close to bottoming with the speed and angle as you hit it hard coming from a down hill. I have a stiffer spring on now so hoping that will help me.

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Crush
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Crush 2/21/2017 6:05pm
2/21/2017 6:05pm
Sitting down in a 4th gear jump?!?! Dafuq?!
MXant15 2/21/2017 6:13pm
2/21/2017 6:13pm
I have the exact opposite issue when I seat bounce 4th gear tapped jumps. Any advice for me, bros?


gsxr6
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gsxr6 2/21/2017 6:15pm
2/21/2017 6:15pm
flymoto wrote:
Thanks for all the advice, some decent pointers there. I think I do need to grip with my legs more, it just doesn't come Natural so...
Thanks for all the advice, some decent pointers there. I think I do need to grip with my legs more, it just doesn't come
Natural so always get out of the habit of doing it! I probably won't adjust my suspension too much as it's not too far off a decent setting I think. It's a crf 450 I'm riding, think it's down to me more than the bike...
Took a half turn out of my 17 crf 450 shock high speed. It stopped kicking me in the ass over jumps.
Tokyo_Tiddler
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Tokyo_Tiddler 2/21/2017 7:41pm
2/21/2017 7:41pm
If you know there is a kicker on a jump lip and you cant avoid it, the following works for me;
1. Always stand because you need your knees to manage the kicker, and don't seat bounce that particular jump
2. You need constant power to the rear wheel so that the chain and rear suspension have a load on them, and for god sakes never back off on the throttle!
3. Just as you hit the kicker, preload the suspension a little more (actually push the rear shock a little more into its travel) by pushing down on the footpegs (kind of like a little bounce on the pegs using your knees). This makes a dramatic difference and will keep the bike level over the jump

I think what the above accomplishes is avoiding going through the soft initial stroke of the rear shock, with a lot of wheel movement and then letting the rebound bring the wheel back quickly the other way. Instead, the above technique keeps the rear shock held steady deeper in its stroke where it is stiffer and it limits wheel movement. Although you are keeping the shock preloaded, it doesn't drive through as much of the shock's stroke the way a seat bounce does.
olddude
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olddude 2/21/2017 7:41pm
2/21/2017 7:41pm
Think snow skiing.
overthebars39 2/21/2017 10:37pm
2/21/2017 10:37pm
Crush wrote:
Sitting down in a 4th gear jump?!?! Dafuq?!
Dude has some balls, I give him that.
Mit12
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Mit12 2/22/2017 12:14am
2/22/2017 12:14am
Mit12 wrote:
First off you said hitting it flat in 4th? Are you wound out or is the bike still pulling? If the bike is still pulling and...
First off you said hitting it flat in 4th? Are you wound out or is the bike still pulling? If the bike is still pulling and the shock is not bottoming out you should not get kicked hard.
flymoto wrote:
Still pulling but at the top of the range. It probably is close to bottoming with the speed and angle as you hit it hard coming...
Still pulling but at the top of the range. It probably is close to bottoming with the speed and angle as you hit it hard coming from a down hill. I have a stiffer spring on now so hoping that will help me.
I would say more high speed compression and shift up.
mx836
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mx836 2/22/2017 3:42am
2/22/2017 3:42am
Ted722 wrote:
What size bike are you riding? Sounds like you're hitting the face with a lot of RPM. Have you ever tried 5th using less RPM? I've...
What size bike are you riding? Sounds like you're hitting the face with a lot of RPM. Have you ever tried 5th using less RPM? I've always had better success on my big bore with jumps like that by going a gear higher and not having the motor whining its guts out upsetting the chassis.
Plus, when you do get kicked forward over the bars from the kicker, you will have some panic rev left in the engine to help save it instead of already being on the rev limiter and having no gyro effect at all.

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