Posts
48
Joined
12/12/2015
Location
Metairie, LA, USA
Edited Date/Time
4/8/2016 8:54am
So I'm torquing down my shifter bolt, and snap! The whole thing comes off in the spindle. After some explitives, I get my tap out and drill bit. I get nearly finished for the job, and THE DRILL BIT BREAKS OFF IN THE SPINDLE.
This bike (2016 Kim 450sxf) has 4 hours on it. I'm freaking out that I'll have to tear the whole bottom end apart to replace this thing. Please help?
This bike (2016 Kim 450sxf) has 4 hours on it. I'm freaking out that I'll have to tear the whole bottom end apart to replace this thing. Please help?

I got the drill bit out. I had needle noses small enough to jar it loose, then I got a magnet to pull the piece out. I just need to get a different tap tomorrow I suppose.
I'll still take any pointers I can get. I've thankfully not had to do this very often.
I got the drill bit out. I had needle noses small enough to jar it loose, then I got a magnet to pull the piece out. I just need to get a different tap tomorrow I suppose.
I'll still take any pointers I can get. I've thankfully not had to do this very often.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Paw Paw
Or.... Load it up and take to a machine shop to have them deal with it could be money well spent ! Just my 2 cents based on experience on similar problems.
Any good machine/fab shop will charge you $50 - $100 per hour; usually with a minimum charge of 1 hour.
That tapered spline is a piss-poor design. I can't believe they still use that on a $10000 motorcycle.
Sucks!! I wanted to ride this weekend!!
It's a steel shaft, so are there different threading tools as opposed for an aluminum thread?
Tungsten-Carbide is the only cutting tool harder than the tool-steel your broken bit or easy-out was made of. A drill made from carbide will cut through that old bit like butter. Anything else is just going to leave you frustrated.
A "Locksmith Drill" is probably the best option. They are special straight-flute drills with a tungsten-carbide tip brazed on.
A solid carbide drill looks like a regular drill bit, but it is made of carbide.
They usually cost around $8 - $15 at a local tool supply house.
Some of the local tool-supply houses will have locksmith drills or solid-carbide drills. You won't find the good stuff at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace or any of the big chain stores.
A standard HSS (High Speed Steel) threading tap should be fine for that shift-shaft. M42 Cobalt-Steel and Carbide taps are superior to plain HSS. Cobalt will be a bit tougher than HSS, but if you don't want to fool around carbide tooling is literally twice as good (and twice the cost).
Broken Bolts: (note that heat and Kroil or PB Blaster helps)
left handed (reverse) drill bits: (start small and make sure that the hole is in the center of the bolt)
http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYB…
rigid screw extractor set
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-35585-No-Screw-Extractor/dp/B000WQYJIG/ref…
Broken Drills and Taps:
Tap Extractors:
http://www.amazon.com/Walton-Tools-18001-Tap-Extractor/dp/B0006NGGCM/re…
Drill out tap extractors
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tap-extractors/=11va16g
IF ALL ELS FAILS, BURN IT OUT
http://www.electroarc.com/
While you have it out, sharpen the shifting claws for more positive feel.
the drill actually removes the unwanted part before even needing to use the EZ-Out
TM
Pit Row
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