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I used a CRF 450 lever on my 500, before I went to an ultra short Gas Gas lever ( non bendy knees, a short lever means less leg lift, plus a quicker rotation of the shaft). As I was always concerned that the much smaller pivot post - 13mm as against 19mm on the 500 knuckle- of the Gas Gas lever might break, I found that an 89 CR 125 lever fitted onto the CRF 450 Knuckle. So packed it as a spare, but the GG lever has held up for many years now, though, that's probably down to the auto decompressor I have on the 500, and the fact that the short lever, when it contacts the footpeg, has no overhang past the footpeg, so it has no 'fulcrum' effect on the lever, nor the cases. A short lever may also help keep your now machined out KS shaft from spiral breakage - I've seen quite a few break over the years when people have done your litening trick.
The last Vertemati's had a solid shaft for the forward Kick on the racebikes, but the road units had a hollow tube that failed , especially when it was cold. They recalled the lot .
The shaft will be hardened on the OD to give it wear resistance , but the inside will be soft to give it some flexibility .
Take out the middle, and you are left with the brittle outer shell.
There is a reason the OEM's don't do this already , because it would save a bunch of weight, but in applications where shafts are hollow, there is a big increase in size , to get back the cross sectional area.
Here is a simple calculator to show the effect
http://www.amesweb.info/Torsion/TorsionalStressCalculator.aspx
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Parts are machined and heat treated relative to what the need to be when they are finished.. I have seen instances where sizes have been on extremes pre Heat Treatment , and the subsequent processes have removed the hardened outer case leaving a part that failed after a few KM .
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