Help - Buying YZ 125 need advice

Realistically, just make sure the bike looks well taken care of, starts easily, and sounds good when running. Maybe have them set the bike on a stand, and then you can lift the rear wheel and feel if there is any play in the suspension linkage. If there is some, it is likely just a bearing, which you should probably just replace anyways. Also, just push down on the front and rear end to make sure the suspension is smooth and doesn't make any weird noises. I'm sure others will chime in, but good luck!

The price should be really like 1,000 to 1,500 but it depends on the shape.

I'd say under $1200 (central CA). 02 and newer are better because they have the plastic that fits all the way to 2014.
Check for oil leaks on the forks and shock shaft. Look at the under side of the engine for leaks. Put it up on a stand and see if the wheels roll easily. Look at brake pads and fluid levels.

Ebay and Honda East Toledo have best prices.

Go into it looking for what's wrong, not what's right. So many guys over look things because the plastic and graphics are nice. If you have the mindset that you are trying to convince yourself to NOT buy it and you can't talk yourself into it.... it's worth buying.

Look out for the 'it's missing a 10 dollar clutch cable' stunt.... That's a way to hide a bigger more expensive problem like a fried clutch. Guys do that with broken shifter, levers, carb not working, etc. If it's less than a 50 dollar fix and they didn't do it, then they're hiding something

Low ball him. $900 all day!

Check this one out..... Met this guy a few years ago in Vegas and am still Facebook friends with him. '05 with a 144 kit in it. Located in Cali somewhere, not quite sure where though..... But just search his name on FB and message him.

If it's really clean you're looking at $1500 (like perfect shape Newmann bike kind of clean). Likely closer to $700-1100. Extra's are nice, but don't really drive up the value much. Mods don't mean jack on an older, beater kind of bike (actually can be a negative).

Make sure it shifts smoothly, that you don't detect lateral movement in the suspension, wheels, etc. Pull the pipe if you can and take a look at the piston, see if it has a bunch of blowby, scoring, or if the powervalve is carbon crusted over.

Partzilla has the best prices I've found, but they're not known for their great service. I will have Rocky Mountain or BTO price match, both are known for good customer service.

Do a quick google search on 2 stroke piston blowby to get an idea of what that would look like. Here's one I found in .20 seconds: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/902308-did-i-go-too-long-on-the-piston…
.19 seconds on 2 stroke piston scoring came up with these pictures: http://www.scootercentral.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10705

If it needs a top-end rebuild, about $100 should do it (avoid Namura's garbage products), as long as the cylinder is in useable shape. If you can pull the left side ignition cover off then you can do some rudimentary checking of the crank for main bearing smoothness, or any movement at all. Pushing/pulling/lifting on the ignition rotor will help you get a basic idea. You're looking at about $300 for a new bottom end (avoid the Wiseco cranks), though some specialty tools will be needed to properly complete that job. Transmission parts will cost a bit more, hence the importance in making sure the trans feels smooth, doesn't pop out of gear, etc.

If a 14 year old bike has really only been rebuilt once, then it either has very low hours on it, or maintenance consisted of not much more than urinating on it to wash off the mud (or maybe even both). On the other hand, at worst you're taking a $1200 risk, not that big of a deal.

One really cool part about most dirtbikes is how simple they are. 30 minutes on YouTube will reveal the path to fixing almost anything on them. A few specialty tools may be needed here and there, but most of them aren't that expensive either.

You also can't know everything going on inside: at some level, it's just a gamble. Even the guy selling it might not know that the transmission is about to take a dump on you. You're buying an old bike.

I really like to look at how much wear is on everything like the shifter, brake petal, the linkage as noted above. I would want it started and at least apply the clutch to feel it pull if you can't ride it on the street (although most of my purchasees have let me do that).

I'd try to get a 2006+ if you can. It might be outside of your budget but could cost less in the long run and will be "modern".

I paid 1500 for a 06 yz125 with 20 hours on it so take that for what its worth.

I paid 1100 for an 05 yz 125, needed a top end and had to split the cases to fish out a broken shift stopper (notorious on the 05/06 yz's) but all said and done with new plastics graphics I should be in it for about $2100.

I would stay away from an 01, you will regret having an older bike, an 02+ will look 10x more modern, and if you can go 05+ you'll get an aluminum frame.

Especiallyh with him saying the clutch cable needs to be adjusted, that could mean anything from a new cable to a new clutch... bike looks a little roasted in the photos. I'd rather pay more up front and get a nicer condition bike, but honestly if you wait you can pay about 1200 for a 03-05 if you are patient.

Pass, take the time to find a good low hrs. bike. you want a bike to ride not work on.

I'd give him $500. An you'll be pissed off when you find out its gonna cost you 2 grand in motor work, suspension rebuild, and all new bearings.

You should search for a clean ass bike that some old fat vet rider babies both in the garage and on the track. They're out there. And for around roughly 2500-3000.

I'd pass on this one. Why? The bars are bent, the levels are funky, and the owner didn't even have the 5 bucks it takes to put on a gas cap vent hose. If the owner skipped on a $5 vent hose, he surely skipped out on every other piece of maintenance. It's easy to see by the wear marks on the frame and engine that it has some decent hours on it.

However, I live where it's easy to sort though dozens of bikes on Craigslist every day. With you living in Alaska, you've got some slim pickings. So if it's the only bike that will go up for sale in the next month, you might have to chance it. Where I live there are loads of bikes in the 1500 range. Most are bikes like this one that "need some work" and have a lot of hours on them, and are being sold because the expensive shit is just around the corner. Other bikes have been sitting in someones garage because he lost interest in riding and have low hours, are bone stock, and someones old lady is forcing the sale because she wants room in the garage for a new freezer. And literally, the worn out bikes with a lot of hours on them are typically priced the same as the ones that have only been ridden 3 times. It just takes some waiting for the low hour bikes to go up for sale.

"comes with the lower part of the engine"

Waitwhat!?!?

save a little more money and get at least a 2006 or newer. a lot better suspension and a nicer bike.

A quick CL search in your area revealed a 05 RM125 for $1350 http://anchorage.craigslist.org/mcy/4650688969.html that year RM is a great bike, btw.
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/mcy/4619866156.html 03 RM125
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/mpo/4625320942.html 03 YZ125, needs top end.

Yes, 05+ YZ's are alum frame, though the 06+ have the ultra desirable SSS suspension.

Yes, almost anything can be rebuilt, though it's easy to exceed the value of the bike. Starting with a stellar deal on something that needs work, or paying a bit more for one that's been well maintained is usually a better way to go.

We try to help out for the most part. There are some idiots but they just add to the entertainment. Good on you for being appreciative of the advice given and considering all that everyone has offered. Don't hesitate to ask any more questions. I'm confident you can find an 05+ YZ for around 1500.

I picked up an 06 YZ125 that was raced and rebuilt. Many owners. It needed a new front tire and to have the brakes bled but that bike was an awesome bike. Had the strongest clutch I've ever used. Bought it for $900 in the dead of winter and sold it for $1350 3 months later when riding season arrived.

Why would you sell that?!