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Hope to hear from you soon.
Take care
Mike
I had to loosen up both rads and connect the y hose then tighten up the rads.
Don't take them all the way off.
It took some tweaking a bit.
What q great track!
Had 5 guys in pre 90's class along with about 10 guys in evo on the same gate.
Great group of guys, some nice battles, and lots of pit racing.
Anyone with a vintage bike near southern New Hampshire, come and race.
This was my first mx race and I had a blast.
This track is perfect , all loam, nice berms, and totally doable table tops.
Be nice to get a couple classes of each going.
Mike
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I'd say the suspension was too soft as the track got rough late in the day.
I need to spring it for my weight for sure.
For woods riding you can get away with too soft, but not on the track with whoops and jumps.
Motor ran great, but I also need to drop to a 51 rear sprocket.
It's amazing how much you learn in a couple of short motos.
My dad passed away just before Thanksgiving. About the only thing thing that kept my mind off things was being out in the garage all though the winter working on that CR.
All the best to you and your family.
Mike
Haven't heard from Bart in a while.
Should be a great day. I'm going to bring a modern bike also.
After my first real ride, found the following.
-Stock springs are way too soft for my 230# butt. As the track got rough later in the day it was noticeable.
- the 53 tooth sprocket that my parts guy recommended was way too much. Dropping down to a 51.
- front fork oil level is too low, can't remember exactly but I think it was 5 inches from the top. 5wt oil.
-clutch pull was heavy but okay for a short moto.
They appear on ebay from time to time. Have you tried a motorcycle breakers? For example oem cycle up in Oregon (I think).
http://www.oem-cycle.com/hondamain.shtml
It took me a while to find one but I did you have to just keep looking. Or you can try to fabricate something but I couldn't find the correct diameter tube with the correct wall thickness.
Pit Row
I plan on attending the Central Village ACR race, just to check it out. I haven't raced in almost 20 years and was not good at it back then either. Last time I even rode was almost 8 years ago on a 2001 CR125 I borrowed for a weekend, and then it had been 5 years prior to that on a borrowed 97 KX125.
Pre 90 interests me, as does EVO. Just wondering how hard it would be to pick up after so long and where the F one can even practice? I'm down your way, by the way. Will say hi in the pits @ Central village if I spot your setup.
This was my first time ever mx.k I'm 48 and have been riding turkey runs mostly.
Practice areas are hard to find, that's why most of the guys I know race enduro, jdays or hs.
I haven't raced acr but expect that they will have enough guys in the pre90 to have ABC classes.
Doesn't matter anyway.
It's a great time. I really just do it to ride non competitive and be able to ride some nice tracks.
I got back into it after 20 years also. No problem, it's more fun now doing it all over again.
There's a decent kx250 in Narragansett , Craig's for sale cheap. Just needs a kick return spring. Go get it, fix it up and come out and ride central.
Had to change the number.
These things are way too short.
Stock Springs are 562mm long with a 30mm spacer
Eibachs are 506mm long (they list510mm)
No spacers provided.
I can't see where this spring length is correct.
Have you guys used these springs? I spoke to the Race Tech guy and he seemed to know what I needed.
I'm pissed.
"Many of our customers have questioned us on why our fork springs are so short, particularly on vintage applications. Here's the long (or short) answer.
In the past the material that manufacturers used to make springs was pretty poor. This meant springs would not only often sack-out but it also meant that fairly heavy gauge wire needed to be used. The heavier gauge the wire the less stressed it is at maximum travel. But this also means that the spring designs were pretty heavy (they weighed a lot) for a given rate.
Let me back up here for a moment. Springs can be made with a variety of wire gauges or diameters. The larger diameter the wire, the more number of coils are required for the desired rate. Thinner wire could also be used requiring less number of coils. I explain this in much greater detail in "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" if you're interested.
These two examples; thick wire, lots-o-coils vs. thin wire, fewer coils introduces us to the concept of a Hi-Performance Spring. The thinner the wire the lighter the spring for a particular rate. These are Hi-Performance. This also requires better materials that weren't available back-in-the-day. In fact it is very rare (and pricey) even today (note: there are only two wire manufacturers in the world that can produce the quality of material we require for most RT Hi-Performance Fork Springs).
It may have crossed your mind that a spring design using thinner wire with less coils would have more travel for a given length than a spring made with thick wire. This means we can design our springs shorter and still have the required travel. This also means we will need to use longer spring spacers but they are generally much lighter than spring.
Using a shorter spring has the added benefit that it will fit in more bikes if we employ different length spacers. If we tried to chase all the original spring lengths we could never make enough of any one particular design to be economical.
So there it is folks. You're gonna have to cut some spacers. But really that is the only down-side. The up-side is less weight, more applications and super-tough hi-performance springs."
Much appreciated.
They were willing to send me spacers but for the most part they use standard PVC.
They should probably include that in their tutorial about spacers.
I was going to use
PVC but figured metal is better. Why over think it I guess.
Post a reply to: 1986 CR 250 will live again.