Can ANYONE help me? KX250 Braap

Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig
Edited Date/Time 1/27/2012 7:44pm
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mx757
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mx757 12/26/2011 8:46pm
12/26/2011 8:46pm
You could try having a new piece welded over that, however thats going to be quite a bit of a project... What year is the bike? You may be able to find a bike thats seized up or whatever cheaply and cannabalize the cases...
DownSouth
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DownSouth 12/26/2011 8:46pm
12/26/2011 8:46pm
JB weld. It can fix anything.
crashnburn11 12/26/2011 8:50pm
12/26/2011 8:50pm
DownSouth wrote:
JB weld. It can fix anything.
you can probably make some type of epoxy like this work, as long as you took the case off and kept it off that clutch shaft. You can use a dremel or die grinder to clean the hole out after it dries.
BobbyM
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BobbyM 12/26/2011 8:52pm
12/26/2011 8:52pm Edited Date/Time 12/26/2011 8:54pm
Should have removed the case saver...which is really a case breaker when the chain snaps....or did you? I fixed something like this with jbw and it is still holding.

The Shop

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Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig 12/26/2011 8:53pm
12/26/2011 8:53pm
Yea that was my thought. Its a 05 kx250 with a works PC motor so i really dont want to tear it down. I was thinking jb weld and constantly pulling in the clutch lever so the shaft doesnt stick?
Psc19933
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Psc19933 12/26/2011 9:08pm
12/26/2011 9:08pm
If your in West Chester stop in and see the boys at Powerseal... They weld cylinders... Can't see why they wouldn't try to help get you all fixed up.
Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig 12/26/2011 9:11pm
12/26/2011 9:11pm
thanks..i just cant have too much material over it...and i need the inside piece to be floating still so its tough..any more suggestions?
Psc19933
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Psc19933 12/26/2011 9:12pm
12/26/2011 9:12pm
They can point you in the right direction regardless... whether that suggestion is to replace the case or they can fix it, or knows someone who can, or if you should jb it....
CamP
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CamP 12/26/2011 9:23pm
12/26/2011 9:23pm Edited Date/Time 12/26/2011 9:24pm
A welder with experience working with pressure die cast aluminum can fix that.

BTW, no wonder your chain snapped. The countershaft sprocket is way beyond worn out.
Bret
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Bret 12/26/2011 9:57pm
12/26/2011 9:57pm
CamP wrote:
A welder with experience working with pressure die cast aluminum can fix that. BTW, no wonder your chain snapped. The countershaft sprocket is way beyond worn...
A welder with experience working with pressure die cast aluminum can fix that.

BTW, no wonder your chain snapped. The countershaft sprocket is way beyond worn out.
X2
Temor a la Mancha 12/26/2011 10:03pm
12/26/2011 10:03pm Edited Date/Time 12/26/2011 10:05pm
Kevin_Billig wrote:
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Judging by the curl of those countershaft sprocket teeth, I'd say your chain and sprockets needed to be replaced awhile ago.

You're going to have a very difficult time plugging that hole with something like JB Weld and ensuring the clutch shaft moves freely without splitting the cases. Otherwise, that clutch shaft is going to either not move properly or continue to break whatever epoxy you use to plug the hole. Show it to an experienced welder and get their opinion.
gsxr6
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gsxr6 12/26/2011 10:05pm
12/26/2011 10:05pm
o come on that sprocket is fine. 200 hours is hardly broke in. rofl
bvm111
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bvm111 12/26/2011 10:13pm
12/26/2011 10:13pm
DownSouth wrote:
JB weld. It can fix anything.
beat me to it!
FGR01
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FGR01 12/26/2011 11:11pm
12/26/2011 11:11pm
Even better than JB weld, get some Epoxy Ribbon or MSR Quik-Steel or Quik-Aluminum.
TeamPropainTurbo38t 12/26/2011 11:57pm
12/26/2011 11:57pm
Kevin_Billig wrote:
Yea that was my thought. Its a 05 kx250 with a works PC motor so i really dont want to tear it down. I was thinking...
Yea that was my thought. Its a 05 kx250 with a works PC motor so i really dont want to tear it down. I was thinking jb weld and constantly pulling in the clutch lever so the shaft doesnt stick?
Take it apart and fix it right. We have a pair of words here for all these JBW options people are giving you.Most case repairs with JBW end up leaking. Yes, a few make it through but most don't especially in hard to reach areas. It's difficult to get stuff to stick to aluminum , clean or not. Find a used case, take the motor out and apart and be done with it. I'm guessing you didn't have the case saver/chain guard on there when it broke. Dave
Rovalova
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Rovalova 12/27/2011 12:47am
12/27/2011 12:47am
Not sure if you have it in the states but I fixed a yz400 that was damaged similar to that with liquid steel, it sets like metal can be drilled tapped machined and filed. Awesome stuff. just need to make sure your case is uper clean from contaminents else oil will seep through the repair join. Best way is to get it welded up by a pro.
newmann
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newmann 12/27/2011 6:54am
12/27/2011 6:54am
Without splitting the cases and welding it it will be a shit repair. But if you want a quick fix, clean the area well and put something down first to keep repair material from getting where you don't want it. Maybe use some wax or something that will seal everything up but still allow everything to work after repairs??? Get you some Q-Bond. Rock solid in seconds.

PC
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PC 12/27/2011 7:11am
12/27/2011 7:11am
Cut a 'patch' from an aluminum can and JB Weld the patch over the hole. You cannot apply liquid weld directly to the area or you'll effectively weld the clutch rod into place.

I've seen beer can/JB Weld repairs like this hold up forever.

Pit Row

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Marshj
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Marshj 12/27/2011 7:28am
12/27/2011 7:28am
If you are going to go the Epoxy repair method I recommend making it a two step process. Foam mold, filler cap, and seal.

Step one, is to create a cap:

Use whatever you see fit, but you want to create a cap for the hole that allows there to be space between your clutch arm while still sealing the hole. So you eliminate the issue of getting the clutch arm stuck in epoxy, and eliminate the issue of the arm not having enough space and knocking your epoxy seal loose when it hits it.

The Mold: Make sure it has a domed recess that you can create by shaping dense foam (styrofoam) into a domed filler piece that goes up against the clutch arm. What this temporary piece does is allow there to be space between the epoxy seal and the clutch arm. With this foam filler in place, now use a dense epoxy resin that is specific to aluminum. We used to use Nu-Duh on all of our Superjet parts back in 2004 (it is moldable like clay and hardens in 5-7 minutes, but is very hard to find). With the Nu-duh create what will become your filler cap by forming an epoxy piece over the foam mold. Once it starts to harden slightly, remove the mold and filler cap. Let the cap harden and shape it to fit the hole correctly by sanding. Clean any of the foam mold from the inside with a dremel (assuming you don't use mold release wax, etc and get super technical).

Step two, seal the cap:

After the cap has completely hardened. Simply place it over the hole and seal it with more Epoxy filler. Massaging the filler into the corners of the cap and making sure you get a solid, seamless coverage that will hold the cap in place. Let it harden and you should be good to ride.
mark_swart
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mark_swart 12/27/2011 7:48am
12/27/2011 7:48am
I don't want to ruin Christmas but I think you should try to find a used case half on ebay. I'll bet you could find one for under $50 if you take your time. Add in a new set of gaskets and a new piston ring just for fun and you could probably get it back together for under $150?
It's winter anyway... fix it now so you won't have to dick around repairing and re-repairing JB weld all spring and summer. If it was just a hole in the case that would be one thing, but given that your clutch arm is putting pressure in that area at the least it's going to cause something to wear out prematurely.
TerryK
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TerryK 12/27/2011 8:24am
12/27/2011 8:24am
Dont be dumb, replace the case half. That hole is going to turn into a crack.

If you can afford to ride and race, you can afford to fix your "PC works" engine PROPERLY.
Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig 12/27/2011 2:05pm
12/27/2011 2:05pm
How hard is it to split the cases and put everything back together?
newmann
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newmann 12/27/2011 2:27pm
12/27/2011 2:27pm
Kevin_Billig wrote:
How hard is it to split the cases and put everything back together?
First time? Short on proper tools? Might enlist the help of someone who is capable and will allow you to assist. You will want to install new bearings and seals while in there. Probably a good time to check the top end, piston and at least put in a fresh ring/rings and clean the powervalves. Does the bike have carbon fiber reeds? If so, a fresh set of those will probably be in order as well. Take the opportunity to make it right and not shortcut anything. You'll be better off in the long run.
TerryK
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TerryK 12/27/2011 2:34pm
12/27/2011 2:34pm
newmann wrote:
First time? Short on proper tools? Might enlist the help of someone who is capable and will allow you to assist. You will want to install...
First time? Short on proper tools? Might enlist the help of someone who is capable and will allow you to assist. You will want to install new bearings and seals while in there. Probably a good time to check the top end, piston and at least put in a fresh ring/rings and clean the powervalves. Does the bike have carbon fiber reeds? If so, a fresh set of those will probably be in order as well. Take the opportunity to make it right and not shortcut anything. You'll be better off in the long run.
This ^^^^ x 1000
Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig 12/27/2011 4:01pm
12/27/2011 4:01pm
Thanks for the advice. The motor just got back from PC last season with a fresh bottom end/trans and top end. I just replaced the top end about 5 hours ago as well. i just put new reeds in my v-force, and i also have a new set of sprockets/chain. This was the last ride before it was done for the winter haha.. I have never split the cases and just spent a ton on the motor last year so i dont want to have to put a new case on if its not 110% necessary.

Thanks for the input guys! Keep it coming. I think im going to take it to a welder and see if he can try to bead it up without touching the clutch arm.
TerryK
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TerryK 12/27/2011 8:29pm
12/27/2011 8:29pm
Kevin_Billig wrote:
Thanks for the advice. The motor just got back from PC last season with a fresh bottom end/trans and top end. I just replaced the top...
Thanks for the advice. The motor just got back from PC last season with a fresh bottom end/trans and top end. I just replaced the top end about 5 hours ago as well. i just put new reeds in my v-force, and i also have a new set of sprockets/chain. This was the last ride before it was done for the winter haha.. I have never split the cases and just spent a ton on the motor last year so i dont want to have to put a new case on if its not 110% necessary.

Thanks for the input guys! Keep it coming. I think im going to take it to a welder and see if he can try to bead it up without touching the clutch arm.
Good Lord man, that is wrong in so many ways!! If you are getting it welded you still have to split the cases and pull all the bearings out before an arc is struck. If you weld it with the bearings in place, you risk damaging the bearings from arcing between the bearing and the race. It's not common, but it can happen. Number two, if you weld it with the engine in one piece you risk having aluminum spatter or blobs dropping into the engine, not to mention damaging the inner surface or the clutch release shaft. Once its welded you'll need a machinist to clean up the shaft bearing surface accurately.

You really need to do this right and from what I can see, buying a new case will be the cheapest way to do the job RIGHT.
Kevin_Billig
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Kevin_Billig 12/27/2011 10:24pm
12/27/2011 10:24pm
Anyone think a small piece of aluminum (ie bottom of coke can) molded over the whole and jb welded around it then a thin layer over the whole thing will work?

Any other suggestions?

** $50 to person that comes up with idea that works*** Not a joke, i will send you 50 cash or a 2 cases of Blue Moon.
Bret
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Bret 12/29/2011 2:14pm
12/29/2011 2:14pm
Split the cases and repair or replace the damaged case half. Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again (unless you keep using that worn out sprocket).

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