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Chapin, SC, USA
Edited Date/Time
6/23/2012 8:17am
Suspension gurus: I think I know the answer to this question, but just wanted a sanity check.
2009 RMZ 450, +30B rider, forks were too soft so I went with MXAs suggested setup of .49 springs and 360cc oil. I've run compression from 11 to all the way out and they are still beating me in the chop and I've had a couple times where the front end pushed going into curves because they are so stiff. Plus with the low oil, they are still using all of their travel over the jumps.
If I put ONE of the stock .47 springs back in, that would bring the average of the springs to .48 and hopefully be less harsh. At that point I would use the oil volume to control bottoming and compression adjustment as needed.
Would the mismatch spring rates cause any issues or wear problems?
2009 RMZ 450, +30B rider, forks were too soft so I went with MXAs suggested setup of .49 springs and 360cc oil. I've run compression from 11 to all the way out and they are still beating me in the chop and I've had a couple times where the front end pushed going into curves because they are so stiff. Plus with the low oil, they are still using all of their travel over the jumps.
If I put ONE of the stock .47 springs back in, that would bring the average of the springs to .48 and hopefully be less harsh. At that point I would use the oil volume to control bottoming and compression adjustment as needed.
Would the mismatch spring rates cause any issues or wear problems?
Specifically braking bumps into turns. Big stuff is fine. Rebound is at 10 out.
But back to my original question: any issues with putting a .47 in one tube and a .49 in the other? That would give me the stock rate that is on the 2012.
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Run the .47 springs like race tech recommends, return the oil amount to stock level, compression 12 clicks out, and rebound 10 clicks out. This is a really good standard setting for CRF's. If you can't dial in the forks with oil height and clicker adjustments on the correct spring rates, you're going to need a revalve to suit your riding stlye.
The pushing you are experiencing entering the corner is due to the forks being too low in the triple clamps or not enough sag.
Guess I should have added -- I'm 170 lb without gear. My rebound is at 11 out (fork says 1-10 is the range). Sag a tad shy of 100mm, forks down 5mm below the line on them . As for speed, I jump most big jumps at most tracks I ride on. If anyone is familiar with Budds Creek, I normally jump everything but the Big Gulp. The tracks near me now are sandy (not Southwick sand, but still more sand than anything else). The thing felt amazing (on the ground) with the .44 springs when I got it, but of course I was bottoming over most jumps and even one G-out where I didn't even leave the ground.
I want to make sure I'm describing this right -- pushing -- front wheel turns, forks don't compress enough for the front tire to bite, front end washes out. That is right, right? And it is just jackhammering up and down through the braking bump chop. It obviously turned a lot better with the softer springs and that is gone now.
So maybe just more rebound in the fork would have helped? Either way I think I'm way stiff on the forks.
My plan based on your input is to pick up the .47 springs and go with the .48 combo, stock oil height, and try to work with the rebound and oil height from there. I want to err on the side of stiff because the track that I've been testing on doesn't really have any huge jumps and I want to be able to soak up the big stuff when I go to other tracks. The .47 springs will give me the option of .47, .48 and .49 if I don't like the .48.
I will follow up once I get it together and get a ride on it. But of course it's winter on the East coast (and Anaheim is coming up so I'll be glued to the TV and way hungover that weekend ) so I probably won't get a ride until mid Jan, weather permitting!
To increase bottoming resistance over the big jumps, this is where you need to increase or decrease oil volume. Oil volume controls the last 1/2 of the fork travel. If you buy a suspension oil syringe it would be very easy for you to add or take away oil through the fork bleeder hole. That would allow you to easily tune and adjust when you switch tracks.
Also on the rebounding, you want to run it as slow as possible without packing up. The slower you can run the rebound, the better the front wheel is going to follow the contour of the ground for traction instead of chopping on every bump.
It almost is sounding like you are too soft in the shock, causing the bike to stinkbug and decrease the amount of weight the chassis is putting on the ground at the front wheel.
Keep in mind I never had the stock rate before, since it had .44s in it when I got it. But for my speed/weight, stock was the right rate all along.
If anybody needs a set of Race Tech .49s I can make you a deal on them!
Pit Row
If he doesn't still have the springs, send me an email to chris@racetech.com. I'll get you a great deal on a set of new Race Tech springs to get you taken care of.
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