Tusk case spliter techniques

Because of where the threaded holes are on the ignition side and the fact that you put the center over the crankshaft, you end up with more leverage on the crank area by default.

You should not see any bowing of the arms. Make sure once again you are not missing a bolt.

As you tighten the splitter and put a little pressure, heat up the two spots on the cases that have the dowel pins in them to help those release. Also use a rubber, plastic, or brass mallet and tap lightly on the countershaft spline to help break that side of the cases free.

I have never had a set of cases not easily separate using the splitter. I feel like you must have something hanging it up.

BTW there are normally 3 or 4 bolts underneath the stator inside the ignition cover.

Agree with above post, and another trick I do is when u have pressure on it take your rubber mallet and hit the case splitter where the bolt goes to the crank and them resnug case splitter bolts. I would only put splitter over crank area not the whole case

I think you forgot a bolt somewhere.

Or you've got a corroded dowel somewhere. Heat up where the dowels are real good and don't be afraid to give it some love with a dead blow

See replies 1 and 3

OK it looks like you have everything ready to go and no that circlip is not holding it together, that just holds the tranny shaft in. The only thing I see you doing different than me is I put the splitter bolts in the stator screw holes right around the crank bearing where the stator is. The biggest spot that is pressed fit is the crank bearings

Try putting the screws in the stator screw holes around crank bearing and when you have good tension on it take your hammer and hit the splitter screw and then try to tighten the splitter screw. It won't move a lot but it should move some and just keep an eye on the 2 ends of the case to make sure it's coming apart even, if it's not you can use rubber mallet to hit sprocket shaft. Also once it start's to come apart u can use a screwdriver where the dowels are and lightly pry apart. It doesn't affect the sealing of the engine in those spots be careful and don't do this in any other area just where the dowels are

It looks like to me that the top splitter bolt by the rear of the cylinder is in a hole that has the threads in the clutch side case. If so, you are pulling against yourself. The same looks to be the case with the other two as well.
Try relocating your puller bolts to the area around the crank. The put under tension and give the case a few light hit with a dead blow hammer. It should split. You will need to continue to pull the case apart while tapping on the out put shaft to keep the trans shaft in place.
Watch this video.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIcWDCEXxGo
Paw Paw

^good point about the bolts reaching threads to the clutch side. I always line up my studs next to the case with the bolt on there to verify how deep they will thread (ensuring not to reach the other case).

Sweet congratulations, good to hear. If you don't have to mess with the tranny gears I take syran wrap and wrap it around the tranny a couple of time to keep it all together and put zip ties at the end of the shafts

You will need to remove the shafts, forks, fork rods, shift drum as a group. As I recall the drum will need to be taken apart before it will come out. Or you can remove all but the drum as a unit. Be sure to not the orientation of the drum and the slots each for goes in to be sure you can put it back together correctly.

Paw Paw